Drawer Slides

[custard]

Imagine you're building a cabinet with side by side banks of drawers, and you're using mechanical drawer slides (ie Blum). Do you,

1. Use a thicker central divider, deep enough so the screws won't contact each other
2. Slightly off-set the location of the slides to give the screws space
3. Use different slide holes on each side
4. Use shorter screws
5. Think, sod it, the screws can sort it out between themselves
6. Some other solution entirely

Thanks!

 

[bjm]

3. Use different slide holes on each side

Who ever looks?

 

[Sgian Dubh]

1. Use a thicker central divider, deep enough so the screws won't contact each other

24 mm in my case the last time I had to do this. In that instance, and because it was for two top drawers in a six drawer cabinet, i.e., four full width drawers and two top half width drawers I just glued together two small bits of 12 mm plywood, that were jointed into the hidden rail above the highest long drawer and lipped the front edge of the 24 mm plywood with matching solid oak.

I don't use drawer runners a great deal, and that was just my solution so perhaps those, such as Doctor Bob, who must use these things on a regular basis have a different preferred solution. Slainte.

 

[pcb1962]

A separate carcase for each set of drawers - that's what I see most of the fitted bedroom furniture builders doing.

 

[John Brown]

If I was accurate enough for it to be a problem, I think I'd choose 3.

 

[custard]

Thanks for your answers. Like Richard I only use drawer runners occasionally, and every time I'm disappointed at how little support the hardware manufacturers give. I was looking at a sideboard design a few months ago and was tempted to try a mechanism that allows the doors to slide past each other. The hardware is expensive so I wanted to feel confident I was buying the correct components, but there was so little technical support I ended up abandoning that idea.

If anyone can recommend a step-by-step manual covering Blum products that would be something I'd really like to have bookmarked!

Festool USA faced the same dilemma and drafted in Rick Christopherson and others to produce some user friendly guides to key Festool products. Blum could learn from that example.

 

[AJB Temple]

Whenever you buy a Blum product, you can scan from the box, leaflet or the big thick Blum catalogue a QR code. This downloads a video to your phone along with all diagrams and dimensions etc, to give a comprehensive installation guide. This is really excellent installer support.

 

[AJB Temple]

For Blum drawer runners, it is easiest to use the Blum templates for hole locations and a drill depth stop. It is very easy to choose holes that avoid each other if you do it this way. There are various templates - some very cheap for occasional users, and others with more options. Again, I recommend these as it makes accuracy much better.

It also makes a difference which Blum system you use. Usually I make inset drawers. I tend to use Movento with soft close and tip-on push to open, with a synchronisation rod from side to side. The video explaining this lot is very clear.

It is worth getting the Blum "catalogue book" from your supplier. Makes all the fittings, options and measurements very clear.

For your problem Gary, I would opt for short euro screws and you should have no problem going in from both sides using the templates.

 

[custard]

Excellent advice, I'll follow up on this. Thanks.

 

[Cabinetman]

It might be difficult getting the right size head but you could drill straight through and use Chicago bolts – I’m not saying you should though! Ian