Draught-proofing garage doors

[Paul Chapman]

Hi everyone,

Have any of you got any good ideas for draught-proofing the conventional up-and-over type of garage door?

I visited some relations recently who live in Belgium. They have a new house with double garage which has motorised doors. They were very well designed and draught-proofing was an integral part of the design. Their garage was so warm I was positively green with envy :mrgreen:

Buying a new door is not really an option (they are not cheap!!!!) so I'm trying to think of ways to draught-proof the one I have. It's the conventional type where the bottom half moves outwards before coming back in.

Any thoughts will be gratefully received

Paul

 

[Steve Maskery]

Hi Paul,
I don't know about draught-proofing, but you can insulate them fairly easily. You need some polystyrene sheet, some hardboard or thin MDF, and a box of self-tapping screws.

My neighbour did his a year or two bak and it made a lot of difference. The hardboard is screwed to the rib structures of the door and the poly fills the voids. You may have to do quite a bit of cutting away for locks & stuff though. Still, inexpensive and quite easy to do, and effective.

I'll see if I can take a pic for you.

Cheers
Steve

 

[Paul Chapman]

Thanks, Steve, that's a great idea :idea: I'd been thinking so much about the gaps around the door that I hadn't even considered insulating the door itself

If I can think of something for the gaps I'll be as warm as toast

Thanks again

Paul

 

[Vormulac]

That's a timely post indeed, I'm soon to start using my garage as a workshop and I was wondering about precisely that!

Thanks guys!

V.

 

[Adam]

Do a search, quite a few forum members have done this already, and have posted photographs, tips etc.

Adam

 

[Steve Maskery]

Here's a couple of pics of Brian's garage door:

As you can see, it is basic, but it works. The glass area is double-glaxed with acrylic, held in place with beading, again screwed tp the structure of the door. With the joints all taped and painted white, it's tidy even if not beautiful.

Cheers
Steve

 

[Paul Chapman]

Thanks Adam

I did a bit of searching as you suggested. Most people who need to keep the door useable seem to have gone with variations of Steve's idea for insulation (I'll probably go for rockwool slabs rather than polystyrene as there may be an increased fire/fume risk with polystyrene) and something like wide rubber strips to cover up the gaps around the door so that it can still be opened and closed.

Thanks again to you and Steve - helpful as ever

Paul

 

[OLD]

Google has lots of links with strips and brushes etc.

 

[samlarsen]

Probably not what your after but, I built an insulated studwall behind my door to improve the warmth and the security. Garage doors are incredibly easy to break into, in fact, most of them can be pushed out of the runners fairly easily.

No good if you want a door though. Materials cost something like £30.

Sam

 

[Paul Chapman]

Thanks Sam.

A few months ago on BBC1 there was a programme each morning at about 9.15 called "Beat the Burglar". An ex-burglar demonstrated how easy it was to break into insecure houses (including the garage) and what sort of chaos a burglar causes :shock:

If they repeat the series I would urge all of you to watch it. It was very well done and made me have a total re-think of home security.

Paul