Dovetail Saw- which one?

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Mike-W

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I spent a few days last week trying to set up my Woodrat to cut dovetails in some Olive Ash, but have decided I do not like the process (took me to long to set up, too noisy and prone to breakout)- I will have some more practise after I have finished the chest of draws I am making.
So I decided to cut the through pins & tails on a bandsaw, however while I can cut the tails on the lapped dovetails with a band saw I need to cut the pins by hand, I have searched the forum for an evaluation on hand saws but have been able found any.
Looking at the availability of quality hand dovetail saws it looks as if I am down to a choice of two, the Lie-Nielsen with 15 tpi. Or the Roberts & Lee Dorchester with 21 tpi - a report by David Savage in 2000 was critical of the Dorchester as having a loose and sloppy fitting handle.

Any guys out there with personal recommendations?

Mike
 
There are others: t'other Mike W for a start :); Adria; Axminster's Victor range - another Mike seemed to like those; Japanese; or of course secondhand.

Personal recommendation? The sharpening job is usually the difference - many people seem to find the LN a little difficult to use in that respect, although I'm not one of them. Wenzloff do a much nicer handle shaping job plus Mike'd be happy to tailor the teeth to suit you I don't doubt. The Adria's always felt nice to hold I must admit, and owners seem to like them well enough. But I'm getting well away from personal experience now so I'll shut up.

Cheers, Alf
 
Mike
I have the L-N dovetail saw-it is a great saw although starting the cut can be awkward (as Alf has mentioned) As soon as you get the knack though you be flying!
I also have the round handled L-N dovetail saw and that is great! It is better on thinner stock but so easy to use. It is quite a bit cheaper too!
I used to have the Pax dovetail saw but it is very slow cutting. The L-N saws cut 10 times quicker.
Hope this helps
Philly :D
 
Believe it or not Bahco do a very good lightweight (German pattern) dovetail saw for around £8.00. This used to be sold as a Sandvik (which is whayt mine is). Not the fastest cutting, but cheap, cheerful and does the job remarkably well

But maybe that's not what is required? :?

Scrit.
 
Mike

I have the LN Independence dovetail saw - it is very nice.

I also have the saw this was based upon, the Independence Tools (IT) dovetail saw, and this was refiled by Mike Wenzloff - it is even nicer.

Somewhere inbetween the above I have a vintage John Cotterill which I refiled and set myself. This one cost about $10.

You would be happy with any of these choices.

Interestingly (for myself at any rate), I was recently sawing some very delicate tenons, removing about 4mm of waste (including the kerf). I began with a Japanese Z-saw because I assumed that the thin blade would work more easily and accurately. Out of curiosity I switched to the IT. This worked better than the Z-saw. Then, because the saw was cutting across the grain, I switched to a 10" crosscut saw, and this worked best of all. I was surprised that the Western saw "outsawed" the Japanese saw in this situation.

Regards from Perth

Derek
 
Philly":3ubx4j0c said:
Mike
I have the L-N dovetail saw-it is a great saw although starting the cut can be awkward (as Alf has mentioned) As soon as you get the knack though you be flying!
I also have the round handled L-N dovetail saw and that is great! It is better on thinner stock but so easy to use. It is quite a bit cheaper too!
I used to have the Pax dovetail saw but it is very slow cutting. The L-N saws cut 10 times quicker.
Hope this helps
Philly :D

With all due respect Philly I have heard Rob Cosmin go on about the relative speed of cutting with a Lie Nielson versus virtually any other saw, and frankly this is somewhat puzzling to me. Normally you would not be cutting a dovetail in wood more than an inch thick, so you mean if I cut it in ten seconds with a Pax you can do it in one second with a Lie Nielson.

Frankly I doubt that speed of cut is that much of a factor unless you are cutting two inch thick tenons and then you would presumably be using a dedicated back saw with fewer teeth per inch.
 
M
I'm not saying the speed it cuts is a selling point-the rip L-N dovetail saw cuts very fast due to the tooth configuration. The Pax DT saw I had cut well but very slowly.
If you were to take cuts side by side with a few different saws you immediately see what I am on about.
regards
Philly :D
 
I use an Adria-up there with the LN etc. Looking at Mike W's beautifully sculpted handles on some of his saws, I'd guess they are supremely comfortable to grip. Not that I will ever be able to compare though as the Adrias are some of my personal 'heirloom' quality tools that'll see me out and several more generations hopefully.

Ike
 
Yeah, the LN can be a little tricky to start the cut, but once you've used it a few times it is superb. I played with Adria and a few others before buying the LN (I preferred it in use)
 
Thanks everyone-
looks like I need to save my pennies and take the plunge! interesting that most of the saws mentioned have 'proper' hand grips, I watched Rob Crosman cutting dovetails last year, he said it was the only way to guide the blade perpendicular to the line.

Mike
 
Hi Mike--the "proper" grip thing is due mostly to the resurgence in decent tools at an albeit higher price.

There's nothing magical about our saws--or that of LN or Adria. There are two ways to achieve a decent western-style saw. One is vintage and should not be discounted out of hand. I suspect there might be someone on the forum with one they haven't used in years and could part with it.

In general, both the newer better saws and vintage open-handled DT or carcass saws have somethings in common. Thinner saw plates and comfortable handles.

If you know of a saw doctor who can do a good job of getting the teeth on a vintage saw in good shape to begin with it will save a larger learning curve. But you ought to learn to sharpen--at least to touch up the teeth between proper sharpenings. This is a cost effective solution to obtain a very good saw. Two of my favorite saws I use to make new saws are vintage ones.

Take care, Mike
 
What I find interesting about this thread is the impression that such saws need to cost loads of money - LN, Adria, etc. I recall reading Krenov many years ago where he mentions using the German Kunz dovetail saw for his work - a small, simple and above all cheap saw - whilst the late Tage Frid favoured German/Scandinavian pattern frame saws, another low cost option. I just find that curious.

Scrit
 
What I find interesting about this thread is the impression that such saws need to cost loads of money - LN, Adria,

Yes, guilty m'lud, but only of tool lust. I bought an expensive saw. I know I didn't need one, as I suspect do most of us who buy expensive tools. I just wanted an Adria. :) :wink:

Ike
 
Well, Scrit, to be fair the question was posed "Looking at the availability of quality hand dovetail saws it looks as if I am down to a choice of two, the Lie-Nielsen with 15 tpi. Or the Roberts & Lee Dorchester", which is why I mentioned the Adria et al. I do have a terrible habit of answering the question :roll: The archive has numerous examples of my usual, boring, oft repeated advice otherwise and I just get sick of repeating it (and I bet everyone else gets sick of reading it too); viz here and here. Heck, a card scraper, bit of brass, wood for a handle and about 20 years experience and you could make your own and really save money... :wink:

Cheers, Alf
 
Yes Scrit, I know what you are saying but I’m with Ike on this one, I not sure that paying five times the cost will improve my work by five times (hopefully I will improve with practice), but woodworking for me is a hobby not a business. If I get enjoyment (and more importantly more confidence) out of using more costly & hopefully higher quality tools then I am happy to pay the extra.
This has always been my philosophy through life, as an example I am just replacing our Sony TV that is 16 years old- when I brought it I paid over the odds compared to other brands, I believed at the time I was buying a high quality product.This proved to be the case with the reliability- and its still working fine.

Best wishes Mike.
 
At the risk of appearing parsimonious, I have under the guiding eyes of Rob Cosman tested a LN dovetail saw, and can say without reservation that the Pax I ended up buying, for $99. Canadian is more than adequate to the task. It is filed rip cut something else that Cosman mentions as required for a dovetail saw, which I gather until recently was not the case.

The LN would cost me double that money here and frankly having tried it twice only for a short time mind, I don't feel it is twice the saw. So I have a saw which I suspect will outlast me, though if I am ever flush with cash sometime, I just may go for one of those Wenzloff's albeit with a closed handle custom made if possible.
 
Among some dovetail saws I have, the one I like is the Adria. It cut very well but starting the cut need some practice, like the LN I assume.
 
Mittlefehldt":miz05q76 said:
The LN would cost me double that money here and frankly having tried it twice only for a short time mind, I don't feel it is twice the saw. So I have a saw which I suspect will outlast me, though if I am ever flush with cash sometime, I just may go for one of those Wenzloff's albeit with a closed handle custom made if possible.

I expect your Pax isn't 5x the saw over the $22 "Classic Gents Saw" that LV sells, either. That is pretty much the law of diminishing returns. "Value" is a flexible and fairly personal thing. Personally, I consider the LN to be pretty cheap; it is one nights stay in many hotels (in major cities) or a nice dinner with a good wine for 2. Heck, a movie+snack now-a-days runs $40. An evening of Hockey? Forget about it. But certainly the Pax saw is good value as well (especially if it comes pre-filed rip) and the Gents Saw has a great price, even if *I* would rather not use one. They all are good values to someone.
 
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