Double doors stud frame clearances help

[Cliver]

I am looking to build a stud frame in an archway from my lounge into the stairway/hall.
I am at the point of stating to assemble and install the stud work but want to ask how big I should make the space in my stud frame for the doors and lining.

The doors I have are 1981mm(h) 1524mm(w) 35mm(D).
I have a 10mm Pairmaker.
The door lining is 30mm.
So just want to check how big I should make the gap in the stud wall.
I'm given to believe that 3mm clearance on each edge is what I need so..

Width:
1524mm Both doors plus
10mm Pairmaker plus
60mm Door lining plus
9mm Clearance on both sides and between the two doors.
1603mm total width.

Height:
1981mm Door height plus
30mm Door Lining plus
6mm Clearance plus
12mm floor covering Laminate plus
3mm Underlay
2032mm total height

I have a supply of wedges to "true up" the door lining so I would guess I need to add some wiggle room into the measurements above to make room for these ?
If so how much should I add in each dimension?

Thanks for any advice and guidance. I just want to be sure I'm making the stud frame suitable for my doors.

 

[Lefley]

1524 mm is two 30 inch doors so add 2 1/2 inches to the total measurement of both doors width. So 62.5 inches. That leaves room for jambs, shims and space between two doors. And 82 1/2 inch high. Rough opening. That’s in Canada.

 

[Doug71]

It looks like you have it all worked out

As you say good idea to give a bit more wiggle room between the studs and door lining so you can get the casing legs exactly plumb, how much depends on how confident you are at building a nice straight wall. You don't want to find the lining bending in so better to make the opening in the studwork bigger and pack the lining straight.

You might get away with just 3mm under the doors but will probably need more as the floors can easily be that much out of level in the area where the doors open causing it to catch the floor. You could give it 3mm then trim as needed.

 

[Cliver]

Thanks guys. Much more confident now

 

[Cliver]

Lefley, Your suggestion of 62.5 inches isn't wide enough even without any wiggle room.
1524+10+60 = 1594mm.
Appologies for the questions but I want to make sure I get this right before I start putting the studwork up so I only have to do it once.
Should I add 2.5 inches to my tight measurements including the lining 1657.5mm ? That seems rather a lot of "wiggle room" considering my wedges are 10mm.
If I take off the door lining then add the 2.5 inches that gives me 1597.5mm but that seems to be a little light on wiggle room.

 

[Lefley]

In Canada when we frame buildings in residential we always leave 2 1/2 extra inches For French doors and only 2 inches for single doors. This is for a 3/4 inch jamb on each side of door. For a total of 1 1/2 inches. That leaves an extra 1 inch fo shiming and small spaces between Center of door and hinges. If your jamb material is bigger add more or if existing framing is out of level add more. My measurements are for new construction which we assume is level!

 

[Cliver]

Now it's starting to make more sense to me .
The jamb I have, which came with the doors, is 30mm (1 and 3/16inches) so quite a bit deeper. So I'll just need to adjust my figures to account for the difference and that should give me a much better wiggle room.
Thanks for all your advice and patience.

Just to check my adjusted figures:
I'm looking at a 1610mm width in my stud frame.
My harware total width is 1594mm
That leaves 16mm spare width
9mm for a 3mm gap at each edge and in the middle
gives me 7mm wiggle room/ 3.5mm each side for plumbing up the lining.
Is that enough or should I add a few more mm?

 

[Lefley]

A few more mm never hurts as you are hiding the gap when you put casing or trim on.

 

[johnnyb]

also leave the head stud loose. then drop it onto your frame. don't put many fixings in the frame sides and adjust cross leggedness out after you hang the doors.then fix firmly. I leave 12mm per side as brought door casings are made from banana wood.

 

[johnnyb]

I meant 12mm overall

 

[johnnyb]

going back its 762+762+10+10clearance+ the next bit depends if your using casings or linings but say 30+30+12. about 1616(say 1620)

 

[johnnyb]

also it pays to straighten up and generally correct all the issues you invariable get with linings casings. these can include sloppy dados tight dados out of square dados. mm out in width both in rebate and overall size.splits knots etcetc.
its often preferable on a double to make a decent straight frame. even using 40mm frame timber if your making the studwork.

 

[cowtown_eric]

And when hanging don't use a short cheap level. 6' is good, but check it out to "prove it". Ain't nothing worse than trying to get a good fit on french doors when framing ain't plumb, and a proven rafter square

In other words, a cheapo short level,and an out of square square (and you'd be suprised as to how many of them ain't really square can give you a lot of grief when it comes to installing the doors

Eric

 

[owen]

I would add roughly 10mm wiggle room either side and a bit more above aswell so make the opening in the stud...
Width: 1620
height: 2050
Any gaps are covered by plasterboard/architrave so give yourself plenty of room. There's nothing worse than trying to squeeze a doorframe into an opening that's too tight.

 

[Cliver]

Thanks everyone. Studwork and lining all in. The lining squared up nicely (I hope . Just need to hang the doors. All the tips and advice on here was most helpful. Gave me the confidence tgo get on and do it. I'l post back once the doors are in.

 

[johnnyb]

when the doors are in thats when you will see how cross legged the frame is! that's why I suggest loosely fixing until the doors are on.

 

[Cliver]

when the doors are in thats when you will see how cross legged the frame is! that's why I suggest loosely fixing until the doors are on.

Yep, I can adjust the lining as and if necessary

 

[johnnyb]

nothing better than a little tap this way another that way...bang the doors are clapping perfect!(then you need to sort the arcs as your frames sticking out or under the plaster!)