Door frame installation

[markblue777]

Hey All,
When installing a door frame should the internal measurement of the fame be as close as possible to the actual door width i am going to use?

at the minute with the frame thickness I was going to use there will be (in theory at least)
16mm
10mm
25mm

extra space in the opening of the internal measurements of the door frame

should I up the thickness of the frame / put 6mm ply behind the frame to pad it out or is it ok as is.

Cheers
Mark

 

[kevinlightfoot]

Are you talking about a door lining which is used on an internal door or a door frame on an external door?

 

[markblue777]

Internal. Cheers mark

 

[RobinBHM]

Hey All,
When installing a door frame should the internal measurement of the fame be as close as possible to the actual door width i am going to use?

at the minute with the frame thickness I was going to use there will be (in theory at least)
16mm
10mm
25mm

extra space in the opening of the internal measurements of the door frame

should I up the thickness of the frame / put 6mm ply behind the frame to pad it out or is it ok as is.

Cheers
Mark

Im not quite sure if Im understanding what you are asking....

calculation: the door width, say 762mm add 2.5mm or 3mm gap each side say 5mm overall, then add 2x door lining thickness, say 28mm + 28mm total = 823mm width

your brickwork opening would need to 10mm wider so allow a structural opening = 833mm

IE 762+5+28+28+10 = 833mm structural opening width

If you have an existing opening and the gap is bigger, you can pack out with blocks / wedge packers as required. Then fill gaps with foam and cover with architrave.

If you are making the liner then you might as well use thicker timber if you can, it makes for a more substantial door liner than the off the shelf jobbies which are quite thin.

on the height you need (example) 1981mm door + 2mm head + say 6mm gap to floor + liner thickness say 28mm = 2017 structural opening = 2027mm

 

[kevinlightfoot]

Door linings are usually a nominal thickness of 30 mm or 11/4 inches It is not normal practise to pad them out as such but I can't really see a problem with your suggested course of action.The lining housings at the head should make your rebate opening approximately 5mm wider than your door to allow clearance without too much planing.I suppose it depends on how particular you are about your clearances,if it is a solid wood door I would err on the greater gap to allow for seasonal movement.Dont forget to leave a reasonable gap at the foot of the lining so you don't have to shorten your door for carpet or your chosen floor covering.Sorry by the time I had typed all that lot I noticed someone had already given you good information but I type so slowly I was damned if I wasn't going to post it.

 

[markblue777]

My rough openings are over the normal rough openings so its a bit all over the place. I will be making them so I will go for thicker timbers. I'm going for a shadow gap rather than architrave so I suppose they need to be as close to no gap as possible.

Cheers for the info all.

Cheers
Mark