Door and windows

[Bigbud78]

Hi guys,

Could anyone point me in the direction of some instructions/video/infomation on making the door / windows in the below photo or similar ?

Its a playhouse made by someone on here and I've basically copied it but I've never done doors or windows before

Thanks

Jim

 

[Bigbud78]

wendy-house-finished-t27438.html

 

[heimlaga]

Sash joinery is pretty straightforward once you get the hang of it. Though it has a learning curve of it's own.
I normally make sashes with tennons and slots as the coner joinery. Like a kind of box joint. Tennon shoulders and slot bottoms either have to match the profile of the adjoining piece or the profiles could be mitered. I normally make the corner joints almost entirely on my spindle moulder using a tennoning sled with it's track bolted to the table. Then I always cut the end joinery before I cut the rebates and profiles. This minimizes tearout but requires a lot of thinking ahead. In the past before I had a spindle moulder I made a few sashes by hand using tennon saws and chisels. Then I made all rebates and profiles before cutting the corner joints.
Traditionally the stiles should always appear full lenght with the rail tennons fitted into slots in the stiles. Both single and double tennons have been used but single tennons are traditionally more common.
If you are going to use your sashes for a playhouse or some other simple building where details aren't important i suggest that you leave them square with just a rebate along one edge. Then the corner joints will be a lot easier to make.
Glazing bars have tennons fitting into mortises in the stiles. A glazing bar mortise in a rail should if possible be made as a through mortise in order to not trap rainwater.

Making panel doors isn't rocket science either. The rails have tennons that go into mortises in the stiles. The top and bottom rails have haunched tennons of cause to leave some material between the mortise and the end of the stile. Theese days I always leave the stiles a bit too long in both ends until the door is assembled. I do this to prewent the mortises from splitting the ends of the stiles. The panels fit into a groove inside the stiles and rails.
I have been taught to never drill for the lock too close the the nearest rail tennon. If you do the joint is weakened.

Here is the start on a series of videos teaching sash making. The guy speaks Swedish but if you watch what he is doing you may learn something:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1nFqiqhz834&list=PLPbfgrJFReG8XPtVB6V2Xl-9zHtE_LgC4

 

[AndyT]

The answer depends on what tools you have or are prepared to buy.

Heimlaga's answer is fine if you have a few thousand invested in machinery (spindle moulder, morticer, planer thicknesses, saw) but is not the only way.
If you just want a one off and are willing to work with hand tools, the investment in kit is quite different. A bench, planes, specialist planes, chisels, saws.

 

[dzj]

Seeing how it's just a cubby house, you don't need to make the more complex profiles real windows
have.
Unless the EU hasn't concocted some strict building regulations, a rebate or two will be enough to keep the rain out.

 

[Bigbud78]

I've got a table saw and a 1/4 router, after looking online for a few hours I'm thinking about a simple rebate in the stiles's and rails for the glass and use plywood for the panels. Cutting tenons in the rail ends and finishing with some window bead. Seems the simplest way ?

Was a little bit of a struggle as I'm still learning the terminology xD

 

[mseries]

Is that user still around ? I'd be interested to know what sort of roof tiles that wendy house has. Broadening my question a bit. Years ago a friend of my showed me some plastic roof tiles that he had. We've lost touch now but I am wondering what they were. They look like those in the picture, like slates but a bit more glossy and much lighter in weight - ideal for an outbuilding IMO.

 

[Bigbud78]

Is that user still around ? I'd be interested to know what sort of roof tiles that wendy house has. Broadening my question a bit. Years ago a friend of my showed me some plastic roof tiles that he had. We've lost touch now but I am wondering what they were. They look like those in the picture, like slates but a bit more glossy and much lighter in weight - ideal for an outbuilding IMO.

Roofing is fibre cement slates 500x250 which I cut down to 165x250 three out of each slate so as to keep the scale corect .
350 small slates 700 new holes to be drilled a labour of love I might say ,still it looks the part + clay ridge tiles

 

[mseries]

Is that user still around ? I'd be interested to know what sort of roof tiles that wendy house has. Broadening my question a bit. Years ago a friend of my showed me some plastic roof tiles that he had. We've lost touch now but I am wondering what they were. They look like those in the picture, like slates but a bit more glossy and much lighter in weight - ideal for an outbuilding IMO.

Roofing is fibre cement slates 500x250 which I cut down to 165x250 three out of each slate so as to keep the scale corect .
350 small slates 700 new holes to be drilled a labour of love I might say ,still it looks the part + clay ridge tiles

thanks, I didn't have time to click and read the OP

 

[deema]

For the windows, im assuming that you will glaze with a single sheet of Perspex the weight of the windows will be very low and you will I believe be able to get away with simple halving joints and good quality water proof glue. Virtually all of the work can be done with the table saw. The rebates are cut I. The table saw and the waste used as the needs for the glazing. Mould or chamfer before you make the cuts as this is far easier. An alternative to half joints is to make a simple jig and use dowels which again will be plenty strong enough.

For the door, most of the joints can again be halving joints, cut accurately the middle rail will create good resistance to any racking. I would use plywood panels as these will help to stop the door racking and you won't need to leave very much space for the wood shrinking and growing as this will only affect the fame.

 

[heimlaga]

The answer depends on what tools you have or are prepared to buy.

Heimlaga's answer is fine if you have a few thousand invested in machinery (spindle moulder, morticer, planer thicknesses, saw) but is not the only way.
If you just want a one off and are willing to work with hand tools, the investment in kit is quite different. A bench, planes, specialist planes, chisels, saws.

Thats correct. I wasn't clear enough but from my point of wiew the principle is the same but the methods may differ depending on the level of investment and mechanisation. I made some 20 sashes with no other machines than a table saw and a hobby sized planer/thicknesser. Actually I made one or two without a planer/thicknesser. I used hand planes and chisels and two tennon saw one sharpened crosscut and the other rip. No problems at all.

 

[heimlaga]

I happened to have a not yet undelivered batch of sashes in storage so here are some details of the joints. I have made them mostly on the spindle moulder but if you omit the angled inside and just use square section materials with a rebate for the glass thee joints become sinpler so you can make them using hand tools and table saw.

 

[GarF]

Funnily enough I am on with the same exact task myself. I'm planning to do something along the lines of this....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SxHSDQrQipI

My wendy house will have two windows 16" by 18" which for space/layout constraints I need to have two inward opening sashes- rather than the single outward opening sash on a lot of examples. There will be shutters on the outside, which I'm hopeful will help with weatherproofness. I'm probably going to go with halved joints at the corners of the sashes as deema says and maybe put a dowel through for good measure (might dowel the butts between head, lining and cill too).

I'm assuming I can use normal butt hinges to hang the sashes, but I'm struggling for a source for the shutter hinges

 

[dzj]

Funnily enough I am on with the same exact task myself. I'm planning to do something along the lines of this....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SxHSDQrQipI

My wendy house will have two windows 16" by 18" which for space/layout constraints I need to have two inward opening sashes- rather than the single outward opening sash on a lot of examples. There will be shutters on the outside, which I'm hopeful will help with weatherproofness. I'm probably going to go with halved joints at the corners of the sashes as deema says and maybe put a dowel through for good measure (might dowel the butts between head, lining and cill too).

I'm assuming I can use normal butt hinges to hang the sashes, but I'm struggling for a source for the shutter hinges

Just a reminder, on inward opening windows, the sloped rebate on the sill of the window frame faces to the outside, while the remaining three rebates face inward.
Barrel hinges are typically used for this kind of window.
If possible go with mortise and tenons for the sashes.
Outward opening windows are easier to make in regards to weatherproofness, so you could get away with no shutters.

 

[GarF]

I need to sit down and do more sketching to get a clear mental picture, and I have bunch of other questions BUT it would be rude of me to hijack this thread- I'll start a WIP of my own, it'll be a good incentive to document the process.
G