Domino 700

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LBCarpentry

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Festool Domino 700

Having used it properly for the first time today I thought I would report on my findings and opinions of the pros and cons.

I have just made a set of French Doors and 2 fixed sash’s using it, and this review is directed towards those who are thinking of using it for doors and windows etc.

Lets start with the cons, as it’s the cons that I came across first, before the pro’s.

After rebating and moulding my doors, I dry fitted and went about marking the positioning of the domino’s. A great chance also to use the reference stop pins, this would save time marking out as well as be certain that the mortices are spaced perfectly apart. Festool advise that one mortice is cut using their tight fit selection, and the second mortice is made using the slightly larger selection, which allows 1.5mm movement, for minor adjustment. Then I stopped just before proceeding. If I use the reference pins to space the tight mortices, as well as use the reference pins to space the larger mortices, these holes are not going to meet up. Bummer. So the official advise goes out the window and I’m forced to do both mortices on the tight setting (and I mean tight).

So I continue, I will do them both tight, as so I can use the reference pins. 44mm door, Set the depth to 22mm and align. Hang on, now the face of the domino pressing against the moulding edge, and not within the rebate. So I have to make the depth much shallower so that it sits within the rebate, as so I can get full depth of cut, as well as using the ref pins….mildly annoying but I persevere…..

As I’m cutting, I noticed that the domino does slightly pull out of line and you have to fight quite a bit (not always) to keep it inline. It would benefit from some sort of quick clamp system that could be flicked on and off with the thumb. But what?

I had one rather scary moment where after I thought, they really should have dealt with this as a risk. As I’m making my cuts and flicking between the pins, I flip the domino up using the non-trigger hand so I can set the pins. As I do this, the trigger button presses against my jumper and it starts up as im switching pins! Probably not the correct way of switching pins but I guarantee everyone will do it at some point!

Saying that, everything turned out darn nicely.

Is it worth the money? I’d hold off until they come up with a couple of features to address issues similar to these.

Do I love it? Of course! There’s nothing more satisfying than seeing the look on other joiners faces, especially if they haven’t even heard or seen of one!

I've tried to keep it short and to the point.
 
Actually I barely wrote any pro's,

Everything else is great, weight, dust extraction, smoothness etc. It's too easy to write pro's about festool. People who are really thinking about buying one will want to know the cons.
 
Thanks Karl, I should've known as Ive got the little one. For some reason I had it in my head that the big one was a 900
 
Do you own 500? As all your problems you're having are down to technique and general good practice when using either of these machines.
1st off its good practice to do mortices before mouldings.
Always clamp your work. The df700 is a heavy beast which requires two hands. The df700 plunges to 70mm and can take a 14mm cutter and on mine cuts very smoothly even on oak.
Side note -Your work should be clamped over the side of the bench so your not referencing off the bench but off the fence. This is where your main pressure should be on front fence.

I waited and procrastinated for years over the DF500 which I bought three years ago now. It must be our most used power tool so I didn't even hesitate when they release DF700 last year but the DF500 is still used 90% time. When I use the XL I make my own wide tenon dominoes, I'm yet to use one out of selection box's. Might sell them on.
The festoolownersgroup.com fourm has excellent manual for DF500 which pretty much applies to using DF700.
Forget how much cost, nail your technique and enjoy good German engineering. :D
 
I had definitely clamped the work and checked several times it was tighter than a gaitors grip!

I would normally cut mortices first when using a 'fixed' tennon, as I know the top and bottom rails can be finely adjusted depending on how the rebates turn out. I've always thought (possibly imagined) that this would be much more difficult using a floating tennon.

Ah well, some more tomorrow! Practise makes perfect!
 
Alex":uyg3t8cl said:
Do you own 500? As all your problems you're having are down to technique and general good practice when using either of these machines.


Yeah I agree with Alex, I had similar problems and more when I first used the 500, like any tool there is a very small learning curve to getting the best out of it. Let us know what you think in a few weeks when you've gotten to grips with it fully. I have a joiner friend who got rid of his tenonner and morticer for the 700 and loves it.
 
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