Does this look like pine to you?

[woodbrains]

(Unless you know the trick)

Mike.

Pray tell good sir

Hello,

The reason panels bow when veneering one side only, is due to 2 things. Addition of moisture to the substrate and stretching the moistened veneer, which tensions the panel when it eventually dries. Balancing veneers simply add equal and opposing additions of moisture and tension. However, if the panel is fully constrained by aprons or a frame of some sort, veneering one side is fine.

Hammer veneering with hot hide glue on one side only is acheivable. Simply place the veneered side down onto piles of old newsprint. Either get some stock not printed on, or place a sheet of lining paper over a stack of discarded newspapers so the ink will not transfer to the work. This draws out the moisture into the paper rather than into the wood. It slows the drying out of the veneer so the tension equalises less suddenly. The panel really will stay flat.

Another way is to use polyurethane glue, which adds no moisture and does not stretch the veneer. I would only do this for sawn veneers or non-porous commercial veneer in case of bleed through.

Mike.

 

[n0legs]

Hello,

The reason panels bow when veneering one side only, is due to 2 things. Addition of moisture to the substrate and stretching the moistened veneer, which tensions the panel when it eventually dries. Balancing veneers simply add equal and opposing additions of moisture and tension. However, if the panel is fully constrained by aprons or a frame of some sort, veneering one side is fine.

Hammer veneering with hot hide glue on one side only is acheivable. Simply place the veneered side down onto piles of old newsprint. Either get some stock not printed on, or place a sheet of lining paper over a stack of discarded newspapers so the ink will not transfer to the work. This draws out the moisture into the paper rather than into the wood. It slows the drying out of the veneer so the tension equalises less suddenly. The panel really will stay flat.

Another way is to use polyurethane glue, which adds no moisture and does not stretch the veneer. I would only do this for sawn veneers or non-porous commercial veneer in case of bleed through.

Mike.

Thanks for that Mike =D>
The knowledge base is building slowly

 

[rob.]

Guys thank you for all your advice about this, unfortunately I wont be veneering it, my job went pear shaped so until I have a new income I have to tighten down on my spending.
Ive decided to just polish over the pine and see how it looks, I will veneer it at some point so I'm not too worried about it.
Although I am having a few issues with the polish on the drawer fronts.
post1071798.html#p1071798

I found this on the net, its Oak with a pine top but it doesn't look horrendous, I reckon I can get this to look Ok providing it doesn't stick out too much.

http://www.loveantiques.com/antique-geo ... 1800-35458