Does the look of a tool/machine affect your buying decision?

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That's a great idea. It would match the rest of my kit:

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The wife keeps a set of pink tools in her sewing room. The idea was I would not borrow them. Well if I need pliers or a screwdriver in the house I know where to go. The idea has been partially successful as so far they have not migrated out to the shed.
Regards
John
 
I cannot speak for pro-users, but the aesthetics of tools matters to me after the performance is the desired standard … it goes without really needing to say that performance is always #1.

Personal taste comes into this always.

I must admit a liking for the lines of Stanley planes, but own a variety of makes. I have been known to modify even new premium tools to get the aesthetic I prefer …

Here is a Veritas BU Smoother …

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And here it is after I tinkered :) ….

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This is just one example from both power and hand tools :(

Regards from Perth

Derek
 
No, only quality of build and reputation.

You get what you pay for.

Worked for a chap who, given it was his business, kept us supplied with sanders and routers and his philosophy was why buy a router costing £250, when you can buy 6 for the same amount. Same went for sanders. Cheapest B&Q special. But in reality just not worth it as they break down frequently.

Of course they dont last long in professional use, and we had a box filled with fubar routers and sanders. The only power tools that worked was the occasional Makita or Bosch that he'd either been talked into, or were part of a clearance sale which a remarkable amount off the list rice. Those tools lasted easily 10x longer and were more accurate in use.

So I only buy quality kit.
Same which my choice of bike and bike components. Hope, Chris King, high or top of the range. These products are not only manufactured to a high standard, but are also easily serviceable.
15 year old Hope brakes sell second hand at 1/2 their original new price and sometimes higher.
 
Not really...I really go by the reviews on a tool to see whether it performs and it's reliability, rather than what it looks like...plus affordability for my own financial circumstances. I just bought all my tools recently and this is what I got.

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well then,
all my machines both metal and wood (there are a lot) are well used and old.....
been in store for nearly 3 years....will rebuild em when they see daylight.....
DO I paint em all the same colour.....
already thinking of getting the racking sandblasted and powder coated yellow in blue to match the forklift....
oh decisions decisions.....hahaha.....

I get weak knee'd at polished stainless and brass...

have a great weekend.......I'm doing some steel fab for a change.....YESSSSSS.......
 
Does anyone else put any thought into this? Do the looks of the thing have any bearing on your buying decisions?
My thought process goes:
ooo, new machine
Can I fit it in the shop?
Is it absurdly heavy?
How much work will it need to rebuild it?
Is it totally obsolete (applies to more of my metalwork stuff than woodwork - see pantograph and die filer:ROFLMAO:)

Buy it regardless of any of the above answers.
 
Never overlook the big old dirty machine in the corner, looking unloved and unused for years but underneath all that dirt and grime could be something that will be much better than any new shiny machine that will catch your eye first. Think of buying a car, one of a dealers tricks is just to polish and valet so it looks as new as possible and smells nice inside but none of that will actually tell you just how good that car is in reality, they make it look nice so that people will want to buy it but what lies beneath the skin. Some of the best cars I have owned have been the unloved dirty cars that a dealer has not got their hands on and they have done me very well, a dealer will happily sell you a polished turrd with a big smile on his face but has it had the cambelt changed and what else has been covered up.
 
So I only buy quality kit.
Same which my choice of bike and bike components. Hope, Chris King, high or top of the range. These products are not only manufactured to a high standard, but are also easily serviceable.
15 year old Hope brakes sell second hand at 1/2 their original new price and sometimes higher.
I will have to look into that, the Hope disc brakes on my Litespeed Appalachian have never worked satisfactorily.
 
Colour to me is a fashion a few years ago yellow and black were the in colours to have every where you looked so i bought Makita (still going strong ) all the guys i knew were loosing thier Dewalt s to tool magpies then Milwakee red now Festool green n black and so the merrygoround goes on when the real criteria should be can i get the job done to the best standard i am capable of business or diy . Garages /workshops full of pristene tools are for show only you got to get em dirty PS I now have a Dewalt combi drill set bought as a christmas prezzy but they are so yesteryear lol ( Wife bought the Dewalt she said the Teal Blue Makita made me look old )
 
Thanks for all your replies so far, chaps. I didn’t expect such helpful and insightful responses to what I thought might be taken as a daft thread on my part.

Derek, that’s a beautiful job you’ve done on the Veritas. The tote is a massive upgrade in looks and, I’m sure, in performance, too.

One thing I agree about is that quality matters. In my situation, it seems all my options are more than adequate to do what I want, so there’s no bad decision to make; it just comes down to the other factors mentioned.

Tom, I agree I shouldn’t be expecting LN or Clifton fit and finish from a bandsaw. I know that would probably be impossible and not desirable or remotely affordable. I see hand tools and machines differently on this scale of looks.

I seem to have different standards for different categories of tools and machines. Human-powered hand tools are my thing; I like premium for those. Perhaps because they’re more intimate and integral to how we work with our hands, the more premium, the more satisfying to use and own. That said, I have a number of vintage Stanley's that I would put in that category, especially in comparison to modern Stanley planes.

Electron-powered hand tools I don’t seem to care as much. I have so few of them and use them so infrequently that I can accept the garish green and mid-range quality of my few Ryobi One+ drills/sander. They mostly live in a box out of sight until I need to erect or dismantle a piece of IKEA pretend furniture.

Machines then are another category. Build quality, fit and finish seem to contribute more to performance here. I’m not just talking paint jobs, though that somewhat matters. Many of you are spot on with what I’m feeling: good ‘looks’ is perhaps just the culmination of many elements of sound engineering and robust materials. I.e. not too many plastic fixtures, smooth castings, adequately strong materials where necessary etc.
 
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Hello again
I wasn't implying the fit and finish of those planes would be anything like any machine,
but your impression regarding fit for purpose.

Have you seen the performance of those machines, or something equivalent?
An honest test.
What I mean by that is demonstrating the cut start to finish without music
or sped up editing...
That is obviously using the fence, not to demonstrate the fence of course,
but to demonstrate that the machine is capable of being used with a fence.
Might as well add something longer than 2 feet, as once a blade even slightly dulls,
is when you get in tune with your machine, and is not dislike what you might think about getting a bit more zoned in regarding the hand tools.
Screeching guides might not be tolerated in a hand tool emphasized workshop.

The best video of the use of such a bandsaw which I've seen, is by a fella on a Laguna far eastern machine
unemployed redneck creations.

I must watch that video again as those results were decent.
I wonder what the machine cuts like once the blade has been run for two minutes.
(edited for video, I thought this was actually a 400 mm machine but at 18" if those wheels are actually that, are above or in the realms of the heavier class of domestic but industrial machines.



Using the fence means beam tension is needed, which requires a stout frame tension screw and carriage assembly.
Different ball game if not wanting to obtain maximum stock and just ripping rough stock to be prepared afterwards, and not resawing thin stuff,
as the blade has to resist twist regarding being parallel with fence.

Tom
 
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Hello again
I wasn't implying the fit and finish of those planes would be anything like any machine,
but your impression regarding fit for purpose.
My apologies. I misunderstood your point.
Have you seen the performance of those machines, or something equivalent?
There are a few videos showing the RP machine's performance. Susan Gardener has one that is quite close to the operations I'll be carrying out (re-sawing). A member here also kindly showed me some results of re-sawing. I've not seen the iTech in operation. Only a detailed look at it from a chap on Anchor Designs. I'm confident my choices are all capable of what I want them for. Even my re-sawing needs are not critical, given I'll likely only need to do that half-a-dozen times a year or so. There are also various videos of people re-sawing with the Rikon machine (rebadged RP), showing its capabilities.
An honest test.
What I mean by that is demonstrating the cut start to finish without music
or sped up editing...
That is obviously using the fence, not to demonstrate the fence of course,
but to demonstrate that the machine is capable of being used with a fence.
Might as well add something longer than 2 feet, as once a blade even slightly dulls,
is when you get in tune with your machine, and is not dislike what you might think about getting a bit more zoned in regarding the hand tools.
Screeching guides might not be tolerated in a hand tool emphasized workshop.
I could live with noisy guides as long as they're accurate. I will not be working on a bandsaw for hours on end. And you may not be aware, but I'm not completely new to bandsaws. I've owned four bandsaws of mixed qualities over the years, the best of which was a Scheppach 5-2. A decent machine but with some niggles I couldn't live with, which is why I'm trying to be pickier this time around, but guide noise isn't something that's off-putting—as long as it's not a sign of a faulty setup, of course.

Ideally, I'd test the RP and iTech in person, but that's not possible, unfortunately.
The best video of the use of such a bandsaw which I've seen, is by a fella on a Laguna far eastern machine
unemployed redneck creations.
I'll look it up, thanks.
I must watch that video again as those results were decent.
I wonder what the machine cuts like once the blade has been run for two minutes. Using the fence means beam tension is needed, which requires a stout frame tension screw and carriage assembly. Different ball game if not wanting to obtain maximum stock and just ripping rough stock to be prepared afterwards, and not resawing thin stuff, as the blade has to resist twist regarding being parallel with fence.
The most difficult job I would require from a bandsaw is re-sawing 'drop-tops' for solid-body guitars. They range from 10-20mm. It'd be nice to do some 5mm thick veneers for other projects, but that's not critical. All work will be dressed by hand after so I'm not too concerned about getting a super-smooth finish as long as the cut is somewhat accurate. It seems all the machines I've shortlisted are capable enough for my needs, hence my final criteria moving to the 'looks' as such as they are.
 
So... with the kind help of some members here, I made up my mind and bought a Minimax S45N. I love its looks as well as its spec, so win-win :)
 
Remember that the blade is everything with a bandsaw, if the blade is shieete then no mater how big or powerful the saw is you won't get good results and yes it is a pita but you do need the right blade for thye job in hand and you should get familiar with blade changing. Try cutting three inches with too many teeth and you will see what I mean, been there and learnt the lesson for being lazy.
 
Remember that the blade is everything with a bandsaw, if the blade is shieete then no mater how big or powerful the saw is you won't get good results and yes it is a pita but you do need the right blade for thye job in hand and you should get familiar with blade changing. Try cutting three inches with too many teeth and you will see what I mean, been there and learnt the lesson for being lazy.
Thankfully the saw comes with a dozen blades of various sizes, a number of which are new so I can experiment between them.
 
Thankfully the saw comes with a dozen blades of various sizes, a number of which are new
When I brought my Bs400 it came with new blades, but no mater what I did it I could not get a decent straight cut from it and I tried everything. Then on these forums someone mentioned Tuffsaw blades and that this could be my problem. I initially thought how could a manufacturer sell me a new machine with crap blades but I brought a selection from Ian at Tuffsaws and wow, it changed the machine into something that met my expectations and cut straight and clean and those record blades went for recycling.
 
When I brought my Bs400 it came with new blades, but no mater what I did it I could not get a decent straight cut from it and I tried everything. Then on these forums someone mentioned Tuffsaw blades and that this could be my problem. I initially thought how could a manufacturer sell me a new machine with rubbish blades but I brought a selection from Ian at Tuffsaws and wow, it changed the machine into something that met my expectations and cut straight and clean and those record blades went for recycling.
I hear you. These are not manufacturer-supplied blades but decent after-market ones. I'm buying the saw from a kitchen cabinet manufacturer who is closing down. Some of the blades are Tuffsaws, and some are Starrett.
 
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