Does anyone have a sharpening question?

[Phil Pascoe]

^^^^^^^ see above.

 

[Noho12C]

Whaou, well done me ! But don't they say that people can't see what is the most visible ?

Ok, diamond stick. I got to give it a try !

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[--Tom--]

Or sandpaper wrapped around a dowel.
Colouring the bevel with a marker pen really helps to see progress and keep track of which serration is next

 

[Bm101]

I've just used my eclipse saw set to make my mrs expensive Japanese knives much more efficient thanks to this thread and some thinking outside of the box.
She has them professionally sharpened 2 monthly as a keen amateur chef and reckons the edges can't be bettered (I know! Ridiculous right!?!) but wait till she sees what I've done to improve all 5 of them. Only took me 2 hours to make sure they will no longer get stuck in the cut.
She tells me not to use them but this will show her I know what I'm doing.

 

[Trevanion]

Hope you’ve got a big suitcase! :lol:

 

[MikeG.]

Just tell her you sent them to the pro sharpeners, and this is how they arrived back.

 

[Tris]

All you need in the kitchen is a side axe- flat bit to crush garlic, curved bit to chop everything else. Anything it won't go through just needs boiling another day or so :lol:

 

[Cheshirechappie]

All you need in the kitchen is a side axe- flat bit to crush garlic, curved bit to chop everything else. Anything it won't go through just needs boiling another day or so :lol:

Now you've been and gone and done it!

Next thing we know, there'll be some wazzock advertising ceramic-bladed side-axes with exotic hardwood handles. Only £1,000 a pop! :lol:

 

[Tris]

All you need in the kitchen is a side axe- flat bit to crush garlic, curved bit to chop everything else. Anything it won't go through just needs boiling another day or so :lol:

Now you've been and gone and done it!

Next thing we know, there'll be some wazzock advertising ceramic-bladed side-axes with exotic hardwood handles. Only £1,000 a pop! :lol:

Don't forget the novelty head shaped block

 

[Bm101]

*carefully writes down in ideas notebook*
cer..a.. mic-bladed siiiideaxes with exotic Haaaaard woooood handles. Full stop.
On...ly £1,000 a pop!
Nb* Nov..el..ty shaped heads...

 

[Noho12C]

Reminds me of the that comic

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[Phil Pascoe]

Del Boy did one in Peckham, didn't he?

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dasani

 

[ED65]

*carefully writes down in ideas notebook*
cer..a.. mic-bladed siiiideaxes with exotic Haaaaard woooood handles. Full stop.
On...ly £1,000 a pop!

:lol: :lol: :lol:

 

[Jimson]

I do, and it's my first post. Perhaps I don't get the joke yet ...

Anyway, if anyone can help - I want to re-grind the primary angles on some bevel edged chisels and a couple of plane irons to 25 degrees. I haven't been able to do it myself even with the coarsest papers and have made a bit of a mess of them. There's a local service which will do them using a surface grinder. Is this likely to overheat and damage the steel in the chisels and plane irons? The man at the shop said he would do it without taking much off and so thought he could do them without damage, but I'm not so sure. Any advice much appreciated. Many thanks.

 

[D_W]

You'll be in the same place soon again if you do that - I think you're far better off continuing on until you get the hang of grinding a primary angle on them.

 

[Racers]

I do, and it's my first post. Perhaps I don't get the joke yet ...

Anyway, if anyone can help - I want to re-grind the primary angles on some bevel edged chisels and a couple of plane irons to 25 degrees. I haven't been able to do it myself even with the coarsest papers and have made a bit of a mess of them. There's a local service which will do them using a surface grinder. Is this likely to overheat and damage the steel in the chisels and plane irons? The man at the shop said he would do it without taking much off and so thought he could do them without damage, but I'm not so sure. Any advice much appreciated. Many thanks.

Get the coarsest paper you can find stretch it tight I use clamps to clamp it down and others to pull the clamps apart.
Stick the blade in a honing guide and have at it, check the temprature of the blade as you can build up some heat
This is my set up used for cleaning shoulder plane sides but it works for blades.
DSC_0054 by pete maddex, on Flickr

Pete

 

[Trainee neophyte]

I do, and it's my first post. Perhaps I don't get the joke yet ...

Anyway, if anyone can help - I want to re-grind the primary angles on some bevel edged chisels and a couple of plane irons to 25 degrees. I haven't been able to do it myself even with the coarsest papers and have made a bit of a mess of them. There's a local service which will do them using a surface grinder. Is this likely to overheat and damage the steel in the chisels and plane irons? The man at the shop said he would do it without taking much off and so thought he could do them without damage, but I'm not so sure. Any advice much appreciated. Many thanks.

Get the coarsest paper you can find stretch it tight I use clamps to clamp it down and others to pull the clamps apart.
Stick the blade in a honing guide and have at it, check the temprature of the blade as you can build up some heat
This is my set up used for cleaning shoulder plane sides but it works for blades.
DSC_0054 by pete maddex, on Flickr

Pete

Can I just thank you for having a bench that looks like mine. Finally, someone who has more stuff than storage.

 

[ED65]

I do, and it's my first post. Perhaps I don't get the joke yet ...

A long-standing issue we've had has finally been taken care of (not before time in the opinion of many). Had it not been this thread would not have been viable because it would almost certainly have been derailed by argument and infighting, and this could have started as early as the first page! This sort of thing marred >95% of sharpening threads (and threads on other topics, as some of the jokes early on refer to) going back years and years.

I want to re-grind the primary angles on some bevel edged chisels and a couple of plane irons to 25 degrees. I haven't been able to do it myself even with the coarsest papers and have made a bit of a mess of them.

Have you been attempting to do this freehand? This is doable, but it certainly helps to have a good grasp of freehanding before you start; on the other hand it could become a valuable training exercise to get good at it!

But regardless of where someone is at it helps to have a VERY good abrasive to do the work on if you're doing this manually, even on run-of-the-mill carbon steels.

I've done this on paper (stout aluminium oxide stuff on a roll), on a couple of 'coarse' honing stones and a diamond plate that was similarly not really coarse enough and I can tell you that you want to do it on something faster than every one of these given the choice. Although it is possible on all it takes far longer than is easily stomachable. Plus the longer the process takes – the more strokes needed – the greater the opportunity to go off track in some way and corrections for these (it tends to happen more than once per edge!) compound the issue of the abrasive not really being fast enough to begin with.

There's a local service which will do them using a surface grinder. Is this likely to overheat and damage the steel in the chisels and plane irons? The man at the shop said he would do it without taking much off and so thought he could do them without damage, but I'm not so sure.

Surface grinders should be capable of this but the way the machine is run is the deciding factor, i.e. it's down to the operator, not about the process in the abstract. I've read both good and bad stories of what people have had done by pros running surface grinders.

Anyway this route seems overkill to me even if the cost is fairly modest when a cheap but serviceable bench grinder is available fairly easily to almost anyone. This would be either through one or other of the German supermarkets or secondhand e.g. via Gumtree or Preloved. And not only would you then be set up to do any similar work for the foreseeable future the cost could easily be lower.

If you want to persevere doing this by hand I would strongly recommend getting a very coarse diamond plate (sub-200 grit) from China or some quality abrasive on a roll at 80 grit, with the preference very much on the first one of these.

 

[MikeG.]

Here's how I do it:

Hold it with your fingers close to the edge you are working and you'll soon know if it is overheating. Either dunk it in water at that point, or pick up another tool and do that one whilst the first cools. Regrinding the primary bevel is such a rare event that I tend to collect up 3 or 4 irons/ chisels and do them all at the same time.

As an aside, don't do this sort of work whilst you have any oak (or chestnut) woodwork on the go. It will make an awful mess. Woodwork and steel work don't mix, and oak suffers the most.

 

[Noho12C]

I would second the idea of investing in a grinder/linisher if you can find a place for it in your garage/shed.

Also, you might need to regrind the primary bevel if you have a nick on it : falling chisel, hard knot, etc happen from time to time...

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