Deadeye
Established Member
Or does everyone in send them away
Do any of you sharpen your own planer/thicknesses blades? How?
- Thread starter Deadeye
- Start date
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Myfordman
AKA 9Fingers
Tormek with a modified attachment for long blades. Mine are 15”
When I owned my previous P/T, I sharpened my own blades because I could not find a sharpening service who could be bothered with my blades. Initially, I used the method here:
Then I bought the jig for my Tormek, and it was much faster and more consistent.
Now I have a SCM P/T with Tersa disposable blades and don't need to bother with sharpening. It might be my imagination, but the Tersa blades seem to last much longer than the HSS blades that came with my Holzmann P/T. I've run almost the same amount of wood through the SCM and am still on the same side of the first set of blades. On the Holzmann, I would already be on my third sharpening.
Then I bought the jig for my Tormek, and it was much faster and more consistent.
Now I have a SCM P/T with Tersa disposable blades and don't need to bother with sharpening. It might be my imagination, but the Tersa blades seem to last much longer than the HSS blades that came with my Holzmann P/T. I've run almost the same amount of wood through the SCM and am still on the same side of the first set of blades. On the Holzmann, I would already be on my third sharpening.
rogxwhit
Established Member
I hone them - both between grinds that I have done out of house, and when I first get them back from grinding. There are various diy solutions and gizmos but in my estimation none of them are likely to be rigid enough to give a sufficiently straight grind.
Jacob
What goes around comes around.
Always send mine off, except in emergencies.
I have the Scheppach Tiger 2500 system - not cheap but better than Tormek. Couldn't understand why the blades would not reach the stone until I realized they had reduced in width from 19 mm to 13 mm from repeated sharpenings. It's always good to keep a spare set ready to go if damaged. Japanese waterstones are available in 250 mm diameter in various grits.
rogxwhit
Established Member
That sounds a bit too skimpy to be securely clamped in a cutterblock ...
Yes, they still clamped firmly in the block but of course I replaced them immediately.
Lion horizontal wetstone grinder with attachment similar to the Tormek one. If there are nicks, have made wheel out of flooring grade chipboard with coarse wet and dry paper on the surface, which is a lot more aggressive than the stone.
Similar to Sandyn but less advanced. Block with angled cuts on the table saw. Some threaded holes with bolts to hold secure. I used to use it handheld on some wet and dry on a marble tile. I now use it on the belt sander with one knife removed to hog off most of the material and then finish on the tile.
Fitz
Fitz
I tried making one with wooden blocks, but I don't have a suitable saw. The 3D print, was just a try and see how it would fit, but I found three spacers held the blades firmly. I used to spend ages hand holding with a diamond stone, until my fingers and wrists ached.
Orraloon
Established Member
I used to use a jig like this one.
Found it did a great job and got the blades sharper than when new. Saves a lot of money and time.
Regards
John
Found it did a great job and got the blades sharper than when new. Saves a lot of money and time.
Regards
John
Gary Bee man
Member
I have a Tormek , sharpener wet stone , i was lucky a guy sold me his for 40 pound and all jigs best uy of my life, make a Dull blade like new. really worth watching a out for one on e bay.
clogs
just can't decide
I managed to buy one of these Kity sharpening machine for lit just a couple of Euro's....
they are no longer made....
it was in bits and they guy had no idea of what it was.....
wife and I played good cop bad cop and reduced it down from 15euro's....
the tubes can be replaced with a like for like stainless plumbing pipe....
will make mine a little longer as well.....
think they are ideal for just touching up the blades....
they are no longer made....
it was in bits and they guy had no idea of what it was.....
wife and I played good cop bad cop and reduced it down from 15euro's....
the tubes can be replaced with a like for like stainless plumbing pipe....
will make mine a little longer as well.....
think they are ideal for just touching up the blades....
Deadeye
Established Member
Not cheap but cheaper than tormek. In what way better? Is the the 2500 the same as the 3000? I can't see a difference in spec?
Aren’t the knives ground unevenly like this, leading to weight differences, tapers and vibration when reinstalled?
A few moo
A few moons ago I used a grinder to rest the bevel and then sharpened individually, I did end up with knives of sufficiently different weight that it caused vibration. Using the approach of working them as a pair I have not had the same issue. The one thing that can happen with the jig is that the end of the knives gets more removed than the middle and you end up with a convex edge, if you are aware of this you can avoid it by hand position/pressure and regular checking that the edges are staying straight.
This is the perceptive comment.
When I bought my current P/T (used) the knives were all tapered end to end and mismatched widths. The first step was to take them all to a professional sharpening company.
It took a while on the grinder but now they are parallel and in matched pairs.
Seriously, buy a spare set of blades or two so you can keep working while you send a couple of pairs away for sharpening to a decent service.
If you have a PT with an an adjustable out feed table, all you need to do is tweak it down a little when blades come back from sharpening. They will still be parallel so no need to mess with the jacking screws to correct for tapered and mismatched blades.
Professional sharpening machinery is more accurate than most people can (or will take the time to) achieve at home.
All the waterstone grinders will do the same job more or less. I bought the Scheppach because they do a planer blade jig - and they are not nearly as expensive as Tomek.
The only difference I can see with them is that the Tiger 3000 has variable speed and a separate torque setting. Both have 10 " wheels - have a look at www.fine-tools.com for a selection of the Japanese and diamond wheels available if you win the lottery. A basic machine will be fine but check the accessories available for that particular machine.
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