Dewalt DW100 bandsaw - manual reqd
- Thread starter paininthe
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jimi43
Established Member
Hi
Go to DEWALT UK SUPPORT - CLICK HERE and ask for the manual.
You will need to register.
I just this second did the same thing for a DW50 or DW1151 planer/thicknesser because I had the same problem...zilch on the Net.
I will let you know if they come through with it!
Cheers
Jim
Go to DEWALT UK SUPPORT - CLICK HERE and ask for the manual.
You will need to register.
I just this second did the same thing for a DW50 or DW1151 planer/thicknesser because I had the same problem...zilch on the Net.
I will let you know if they come through with it!
Cheers
Jim
jimi43
Established Member
I just got a reply from a nice lady called Charlotte with a PDF of the manual attached! It took them SEVEN minutes! :shock:
Now THAT...is service!
Good luck with yours.
Cheers
Jim
Now THAT...is service!
Good luck with yours.
Cheers
Jim
Phil Pascoe
Established Member
I wouldn't have thought there was much in them to need a manual for?
Phil Pascoe
Established Member
The comment wasn't meant to be flippant - you'd probably do better to watch a few "how to set up a bandsaw" videos than read a manual. Someone'll give you a link to a DVD in a minute if you can't find what you want on U Tube.
Edit - Ian at Tuffsaws will tell you what blade you require - don't order just one, sod's law you'll damage it immediately and not have a spare. They are the best blades.
Edit - Ian at Tuffsaws will tell you what blade you require - don't order just one, sod's law you'll damage it immediately and not have a spare. They are the best blades.
jimi43
Established Member
IanMaude":11mhrn99 said:
The manual does indeed contain some detail which might not be immediately apparent even to the most seasoned of users...the vari-speed function (if you have that model) is one mechanism that comes to mind.
I've had this model for many years and as a mid-range machine for light hobby use...it is very good and reliable if maintained. In fact..I did my annual strip down and service job on mine only last night.
When I first got it brand new even with the manual to hand...it was not set up for optimum use and for a number of years I used it under the assumption that it was and was not that impressed.
I was advised on this very forum to get hold of Steve Maskery's Bandsaw Essentials DVD and using this and his online videos...I set up the saw following the exact sequence he prescribes to the letter.
I can only say that the saw turned from a mediocre machine to a precision tool which I use to do most jobs up to heavy ripping. You need an industrial machine to go further with larger stock and blades.
There is one thing that is critical to the cleanness and ease of cut and that is of course the blade. If you put the stock blade in even if it's new...you will not get the maximum out of the machine. For this you need a quality blade. I think it is universally accepted that the best value and quality blades are supplied by a member here...Ian at Tuffsaws. Using a quality blade will transform your saw. Get two and when one is worn or breaks (not often!) then you simply put the spare on and order another as a spare. That way you are never without the machine to use when you most need it.
Throw away the plastic table insert..it's useless. You need to make a ZCI...(zero clearance insert) which will present a much more stable platform for the workpiece and prevent small offcuts being dragged into the gap and jamming the blade.
If you follow these three tips in order...you will have a diamond machine which will serve you well for many years to come!
This is some oak strip I made to face a shelf:
I try not to use thin blades on this saw...preferring to leave this for straight cuts with a 1/2" or 5/8" blade.
For curves I use the Burgess with a 1/4" blade left in it ready to go.
For most hobby use..these two saws make a useful arsenal for most cutting needs as long as you are aware of the limitations of both and know when to go from one to the other.
If you need any guidance along the way...post on here. There are a number of members far more qualified than I to help you.
Cheers
Jimi
Phil Pascoe
Established Member
Had I seen this, I wouldn't have needed to edit my post. 
jimi43
Established Member
phil.p":3noftm1q said:Had I seen this, I wouldn't have needed to edit my post.
Well that just served to confirm the quality of TUFF SAWS blades and the wise investment to get two. Often as not...new users of bandsaws don't realise that even a quality blade can develop problems and changing the blade brings it back to serviceable again.
Most of the symptoms...burning wood, tendency to curve, difficulty of cut.....are all down to a worn and useless blade. But not always.
Last night I realised that one of the bottom guides was completely missing!! Where it went I have no idea...probably sucked into the extractor by now and I had a feeling something was wrong recently but never thought it would be completely missing! I made another one and it's fine again!
Also...Tia....something which may not be immediately obvious. For setup and adjustments of the critical guide area...it is FAR easier to remove the table by undoing the four bolts that hold it on. Do ALL the setup bar the table levelling with the table removed...it's far easier to see what you are doing, especially with the bottom guides and pressure bearing setup. You can also see how the blade is running on the tyres with the door safely closed. This allows adjustment of the top wheel to ensure the blade tracks properly on the tyres.
Jimi
jimi43
Established Member
IanMaude":1aaa1c6l said:Many thanks for the replies
Ian
Hi Ian
Just tell Ian the make and model number and he will do the rest. He makes them to size
Jim
Sorry for calling you Tia earlier! I read the original post instead of yours for the name! DOH! (homer)
