Design for a TV Stand

[Slim]

Hi Guys,

I have just received my first paid job. It is a television stand for the largest most obscene TV I have ever seen.
The customer asked for ultra modern (even though she is 94).

It will be made from walnut with maple columns and probably an oiled finish.

What do you think, I am open to any critisism/suggestions.

Many Thanks

 

[gidon]

Very nice! It may be a personal thing - but I would prefer square pillars instead of the round ones for that design. The contrasting wood I like.
Are you serious - she's 94 and wants a massive plasma screen!
Cheers
Gidon

 

[nickson71]

eye sight must be going ...........

 

[SketchUp Guru]

How about replacing the columns with stainless steel? That would make it more modern, yet. I'd prefer square stock but round would work, too.

 

[Gary H]

Lovely design Slim. Nice contrast too. 8)

One idea - form the elongated 'S' shape i.e. steam bend perhaps. Kinda more messy and time consuming though.

Or as Dave says, use stainless steel and work it 'through' the wood rather than individual columns.

Just a coupla thunks..

Gary

 

[Slim]

Thanks for the comments guys.

Here it is again with square pillars

and Stainless steel pillars

I must admit I really do like the stainless steel. But how would I make them. I do have a metal lathe, but I wouldn't fancy turning stainless steel that size. It is very slow and hard to turn. If I made it from plate steel, how easy wood it be to bend into cylinders like that?

Gary, I also like the idea of the steam bending, but I have no equipment for doing it. Plus I have never done it before. May be a bit hit or miss.

 

[SketchUp Guru]

How about using stainless pipe? You could make disks to fit inside and use pieces of threaded rod inside to hold all in place. Or you could turn wooden cylinders to fit inside the pipe and mill tenons on the ends to fit mortises top and bottom. Or you could turn cylinders to fit and screw them in from the ends. Or you could ruun a shallow recess--sort of mortise for the pipe in the top and bottom surfaces and just let compression hold them in place. Or...

 

[Slim]

Hi Dave.

any more suggestions???

I didn't know you could get stainless pipe. Do you know where I would look for such an item?

 

[SketchUp Guru]

Well, I expect I could find here because we use it at The Clinic for stuff. I'm not sure where you would find it in the UK but it must surely be available. Although not the as large in diameter, you might see if there are any auto/truck exhaust shops that do custom stainless. You might be able to get something from them.

 

[jasonB]

Have a look in yellow pages for your local stainless steel stockholder, mine keep solid upto 9" dia and various tubes and can cut it into suitable lengths. Spin it up in your lathe with some 320grit paper and you will get a nice brushed finish (cover the bed to keep the abrasive off)

Jason

 

[Shultzy]

This site supply all SS products
http://www.applegate.co.uk/company/01/05/517.htm

 

[Slim]

Cheers guys, I'll look into that.

Dave, Sorry, I didn't notice you were in the US.

Anymore suggestions would be gratefully received.

Many Thanks

 

[wrightclan]

Some steel stockholders don't like to sell in small quantities or to non-account holders. Others are more amenable. So it pays to make a few phone calls. Another option is to buy worktop legs and cut them to length, if you have an accurate way of doing so.

Brad

 

[woodbloke]

Gidon wrote:

she's 94 and wants a massive plasma screen!

Rock on! :lol: I prefer the solid round maple supports. How will you do the walnut stuff - from the solid or veneered and how will you join at the corners? - Rob

 

[Slim]

Yes woodbloke, I think you are right. I am going to go for the round maple columns.

The customer wants solid walnut. There is a sale at British Hardwoods on Saturday so I am going to see if I can get some cheaper stuff. I know they don't have alot of walnut in stock though.

The corners are 45 degree mitres, I am either going to biscuit or dowel them to stop the natural tendancy for the mitres to slide apart.

Do you think that would be strong enough?

 

[woodbloke]

Slimjim81 wrote:

The corners are 45 degree mitres, I am either going to biscuit or dowel them to stop the natural tendancy for the mitres to slide apart.

This is a personal view, but I feel that this 'slabby' type of construction is more suited to the use of veneered man made boards (mdf, ply). Long mitre joints will be very tricky to cut accurately and glue together (use either a table saw or 45deg router cutter) and I would use biscuits to reinforce the joint. On the other hand the customer is always right so if she wants it in the solid without any joint evidence showing you might even mitre dovetail them :lol: :lol: - Rob