Deep glossy clear finish

[Peter907]

I'm learning slowly to do this woodturning, just a couple of months trial and error under my belt so far and thoroughly enjoying it.

What are your recommendations to get a deep glossy clear finish on turned wood?

Currently I'm going through Abranet 120, 240, 320, 400 and 600 grit with the wood turning on the lathe, removing dust with methylated spirits then wiping on Pre-thinned Cellulose Sanding Sealer followed by a clear spray lacquer. But I'm not quite getting the quality of finish I'd hoped for. Maybe I need to try buffing the lacquer with some abrasive polish. Or perhaps there are other options.

Any tips would be very helpful.

 

[mwinfrance]

Two part catalized polyurethane varnish.The kind used on metallic paint cars..Any motor factors will have it.
you'll need some "diluant" too , the kind that matches the paint, The paint supplier will advise..get some recycled diluant too for cleaning the spray gun..recycled is much cheaper than fresh.
You'll also need a 3M type mask with cartridges..or you'll poison yourself ( risk of death )
You spray it one, cheap spray gun and ( or cheap airbrush ) and cheap 25 litre ( Lidl type ) will do fine.
Let the first coat dry, sand with 400 dry paper the version used for car body work ) ..or rub over with 3M type scotch pad.
Spray second coat..
You'll never see a deeper gloss.
The version of the 2 pack PU ( acrylic ) varnish sold for HGV is cheapest.
If money is no object buy Sikkens, or cheaper and still very good ( it is what is used on Mercs ) Herberts... or PPG.

that is the "spendy " way..

or ..

Multiple coats with ( allow to dry well between each ) with your normal varnish, sand with 400 paper ( dry ) in between each.Again spraying is better than brushing. Use car polish over the final coat when dried.

The way old time laquer on cars was polished was to use cornflower as the final abrasive suspended in lots of water, and an airpowered polish mop.
You can get cheap leccy powered polishers from Lidl etc..with a foam head..use car polish with them..

To get a deep gloss the initial surface needs to be very smooth, and you need to use enough coats of a hard varnish - with sanding in between coats ) to fill any tiny irregularities..then a coat of varnish to even it all out..Light sanding and a final gloss coat..When all is bone dry..then you polish.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Rustin's Plastic Coating or TruOil.

 

[paulrbarnard]

It’s all in the polishing/buffing. Pretty much any hard finish will polish to a high gloss. Of course some finished are better/easier than others but give it a go with what you have.

Abrasives through to 12 or 16000 then finish with a polishing compound. It can be done by hand but needs a bit of elbow grease.

 

[Yorkieguy]

For some time I've used U-POL Power Can Professional Spray clear lacquer – 'Clearcoat UP0804'. It's used in the motor trade for refinishing, and seems to be used quite widely in woodturning circles. It's not expensive, and you might like to give it a try. It's widely available.

Description:

'POWER CAN CLEAR COAT is a 1K, ready to use clear coat in an aerosol. It is used for finishing coated surfaces in order to achieve a high gloss, UV resistant, durable finish'.

EG:

U-POL Power Can Clearcoat Aerosol - 500ml:

U-POL Power Can Clearcoat Aerosol - 500ml 5010796103699 | eBay

It has to be said that a very high gloss 'toffee apple' finish on wood-turned items isn't to everyone's taste.

 

[Paul Hannaby]

I would add 180 grit to your sequence, the experts suggest you shouldn't go up in grit numbers by more than 50% at a time and 150% of 120 is 180.
Lacquer should give you a deep gloss but will probably need several coats to achieve it. Also, cut back between coats with steel wool or fine abrasive or both!

 

[Peter907]

Thanks everyone.
I'm erring towards keeping it simple and trying U Pol and or Rustin's Plastic Coating and if necessary experimenting with a buffing and abrasive polishing. I will also get some Abranet 180 in the sanding system.

Am I right in thinking that it would be an advantage to use my Cellulose Sanding Sealer prior to either of the above coatings.

 

[Duncan A]

It can also help to hand sand gently along the grain after sanding with the lathe turning. Do this for each of the grits, or at least for the finer grits e.g. 240, 320, 400, 600
Duncan

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Thanks everyone.
I'm erring towards keeping it simple and trying U Pol and or Rustin's Plastic Coating and if necessary experimenting with a buffing and abrasive polishing. I will also get some Abranet 180 in the sanding system.

Am I right in thinking that it would be an advantage to use my Cellulose Sanding Sealer prior to either of the above coatings.

Many people use it without issue, but after a complex piece which couldn't be refinished going extremely patchy because of it I use it only when absolutely necessary. I use hot water (or steam for small pieces), it's surprising how much grain it raises and if it does no good it'll do no harm. Do it before you go for a tea/***/toilet break and the work will be dry by the time you get back.

 

[rafezetter]

Rustin's Plastic Coating or TruOil.

This stuff - it's a 2 part catalytic epoxy coating. You have to work quick but it can be thinned to make it go on easier. can be polished etc after.

Word to the wise, it doesn't like playing with other chemicals - if there's even the smallest amount of other chemical like paint etc it's "orange peel" pretty badly.

Done correctly it'll be pretty bombproof as it's most common useage before proper epoxy came on the market was pub countertops. and they get a lot of abuse.

Pictures of when I used it for a kitchen reno - the lady is a "cleanaholic" and it had to withstand this and be her "forever kitchen". Still looks good today about 7 years later so far.

 

[alex robinson]

I'm learning slowly to do this woodturning, just a couple of months trial and error under my belt so far and thoroughly enjoying it.

What are your recommendations to get a deep glossy clear finish on turned wood?

Currently I'm going through Abranet 120, 240, 320, 400 and 600 grit with the wood turning on the lathe, removing dust with methylated spirits then wiping on Pre-thinned Cellulose Sanding Sealer followed by a clear spray lacquer. But I'm not quite getting the quality of finish I'd hoped for. Maybe I need to try buffing the lacquer with some abrasive polish. Or perhaps there are other options.

Any tips would be very helpful.

Bit surprised noone has suggested shellac. Nothing quite makes the grain pop like an oil, but I quite like extra blond as a high gloss finish that shows off the figure and is less "plastic" looking than some.

 

[Roland]

How glassy do you want your finish to be? Multiple coats of most oil based finishes will get you between satin and gloss. Then use 600 grit paper, or 400 first if the 600 shows up uneven areas. Finish off with Yorkshire Grit, which is a wax polish containing very fine grit.

If you want shiny, without the yellowing which oil finishes bring, then try a water based acrylic lacquer.

The ultimate in my book is CA glue, but it can look a bit plastically (which of course it is).