Decking Plan Advice

[Gaz2020]

Hi,

Below is my design and plan for my decking, I am not a DIY novice but this is my first foray into decking.

Any decking experts out there that can have a glance over and see if it looks ok please.

(Resized)

The the 6x2's will be attached with Joist Hangers where appropriate. The 4x2 Noggins will be toe screwed/nailed.

Posts are dug and buried to 700mm.

Thanks

 

[xy mosian]

Hi, welcome to the forum, enjoy yourself.
Sorry I cannot supply technical details about decking. I would however plea that if any of the edges are to a wall with windows above, then run the top surface planking parallel to that wall. This will provide an element of footing to any ladders used there in the future. Especially if slightly damp.
xy

 

[TheTiddles]

If those are wooden posts in the ground I wouldn’t do it that way, you have 6-months upwards before they start to rot, maybe years of course, but maybe only months. Also the joists should be sitting on shoulders in the posts not shearing on screws/nails.

If it were me, I’d use concrete blocks on pads or dekblocks or grandfather posts at a pinch. The previous two options being considerably easier and better for load bearing, otherwise looks reasonable. Remember decking gets wet, slimy and ugly very quickly if it’s treated softwood

Aidan

 

[HappyHacker]

I would not bury the posts but would use metal standoffs set into concrete. I find that if the posts are set in the ground, depending on the size and treatment they last 10-15 years at most.

just noticed the same advice above.

 

[AJB Temple]

Unless I have misunderstood the dimensions, that is a large area for decking. If you are using softwood, you can expect a lot of work annually to keep it looking good.

Does it need decking? Could you use blockwork, or stone or brick? Decks look good in year 1. Only.

 

[mindthatwhatouch]

I’m no professional but have a little experience and recently put down some Trex decking for ourselves.

Base was concrete pads with these adjustable feet. Which made levelling easy.
https://www.manomano.co.uk/pedestal...MIvLq_s7nT6AIVR7DtCh0f9AUKEAQYASABEgLZdPD_BwE

As you said, joist hangers where possible, use a 50 mm batten along bottom edge of 150mm joists to rest 100 mm noggins on, then screw or skew/toe nail as appropriate. If you rest the joists on a support (the ones that run north/south in your diagram) you can eliminate the doubling up on those joists.

As others have stated avoid burying timber posts (plastic are available)
It’s a large area, maybe a little overwhelming as a single block (but that depends on site/use/aesthetic) and I’d seriously consider the maintenance involved.

We ummed and aarred for ages over composite/hardwood and plumped for the Trex in the end.

How elevated is the deck and what sort of decking covering? as this has a bearing on joist spacing.
Also you may need to add support on the edge joists/framing depending on how you intend to finish the edges, with a fascia or picture frame edge. A doubled support on every cut end, so are you laying the cuts out randomly or in a pattern.

Plenty of resources online, hope this helps, and keep planning......

 

[cookiemonster]

+1 to those arguing for masonry plinths, rather than burying timber posts.

In my experience softwood decks can look good for years but, yes, you will need to invest time and money in maintaining it - decking cleaner, pressure washer, oil, etc.

Hopefully you have an open area to one side towards which you can do the cleaning? That can make a right mess (particularly with a pressure washer).

And I would avoid water-based decking treatments, particularly the coloured variety.

 

[Inspector]

I'm not a builder and don't play one on TV. I built my decks last summer and if the snow ever goes away I'll be able to finish them. :roll: I have stairs and railings to do and it is ready for inspection.

In order to get the permits I hired an architect to do the drawings. The first draft had 14 odd posts in addition to the joist hangers along the house and used 2x6 like your deck. Because of the 3m deep frost line I was going to be using helical piles to support the deck. That would have cost about $5,600Can (3,250 pounds) just for the piles. :shock: I asked her to use fewer if she could and up the lumber sizes to 2x10 or 2x12. I can buy a lot of the more expensive wood for the cost of those piles. She came back with 6 piles for the decks. Working alone with the larger wood was not that difficult and simplified the construction a lot. Did I say how much I hate working with pressure treated lumber? :evil:

I feel with a forest of more than 30 posts your deck is overly complex, where you could likely use a third as many and reduce the number of pieces by going to wide/longer boards. Lining up those rows of posts to fit the lumber to is going to be a royal pain too. Especially if you are working alone. (hammer) There may be reasons for designing the deck the way you have like ground clearance but I does look like it could be made simpler.

Pete

 

[Racers]

The wife said she wanted decking in the garden and I was happy to oblige, its 5 meters by 2.5 meters made from 4x6 pressure treated sat on concrete blocks that are bedded on pea shingle in holes, I put damp proof course on top of the blocks.

Its lasting very well and looking good.

The black shadow by Pete Maddex, on Flickr

Pete

 

[barnettjacob]

The wife said she wanted decking in the garden and I was happy to oblige, its 5 meters by 2.5 meters made from 4x6 pressure treated sat on concrete blocks that are bedded on pea shingle in holes, I put damp proof course on top of the blocks.

Its lasting very well and looking good.

Pete

Pete, looks great! Can I ask how you fastened the boards down?

 

[Racers]

Torx headed decking screws, you don't have to push the bit into the heads I wouldn't use anything else.

Pete

 

[Trainee neophyte]

My brother spends a lot of time in Australia, and he says that the decks there all use the same wood as shown above, but with the channeled side down, and the smooth side up. Apparently the point of the channels is to let moisture drip off the underside - a bit like the groove underneath a window sill.

I have never been to Australia, but I am intrigued to know if what I have said above is true, and if it is, who is right? An image search for Ozzie decks does show endless smooth, flat decks, with not a groove to be seen but I can't see underneath them...

Or is it just that Australians are upside down naturally?

 

[cookiemonster]

My brother spends a lot of time in Australia, and he says that the decks there all use the same wood as shown above, but with the channeled side down, and the smooth side up. Apparently the point of the channels is to let moisture drip off the underside - a bit like the groove underneath a window sill.

I have never been to Australia, but I am intrigued to know if what I have said above is true, and if it is, who is right? An image search for Ozzie decks does show endless smooth, flat decks, with not a groove to be seen but I can't see underneath them...

Or is it just that Australians are upside down naturally?

The only softwood decking I have ever worked with in the UK has groves both sides - thin one side, fat the other.

 

[Coyote]

Some Wickes decking is smooth on one side with fine grooves on the other. And it's definitely soft wood!

 

[Racers]

Smooth side up would be lethal in wet weather, the grooves are for grip.

Pete

 

[Inspector]

Grooves up might be good for grip on a ramp but hold water which isn't good for a deck and if holding water here when it freezes will be slippery until spring. Grew up with flat boarded decks on the west coast of Canada and they aren't slippery unless slimy with the green algae that grew on shady areas that didn't dry out much.

It really comes down to aesthetics but I'd rather sweep off a flat deck. :wink:

Pete

 

[Orraloon]

My brother spends a lot of time in Australia, and he says that the decks there all use the same wood as shown above, but with the channeled side down, and the smooth side up. Apparently the point of the channels is to let moisture drip off the underside - a bit like the groove underneath a window sill.

I have never been to Australia, but I am intrigued to know if what I have said above is true, and if it is, who is right? An image search for Ozzie decks does show endless smooth, flat decks, with not a groove to be seen but I can't see underneath them...

Or is it just that Australians are upside down naturally?

Thats right. Mostly put smooth side up for the reasons mentioned.
I would also mention that using treated pine will be false economy and look like $#yte in a short space of time. Hardwood is the better option but even that still requires regular maintenance. My personal experience with water based deck coatings was bad so dont go there. Stick with oil based.
Regards
John

 

[Chris152]

Strewth, we're putting down a small area of deck later this week, I'd never considered that the grooves should face down. First site I checked online says yes, they should - though that's from Oz:
https://build.com.au/should-decking-gro ... ce-or-down
What we need is someone who has lived with both methods in the UK to compare?

eta - on the other hand, 'Grooves are designed to channel water away from the deck and as such should be fitted with a fall in the direction of the grooves. Any fixings should be fitted at quarter points within the bottom of a grove which also makes them less visible. Contrary to some people’s belief, the grooves are not intended to provide improved grip underfoot.'
https://www.tdca.org.uk/faq/timber-deck ... p-or-down/ (Timber Decking and Cladding Association)

 

[petertheeater]

Not sure how high you were going but I believe you might need planning permission for decking over 300mm.