DBT85s Workshop - Moved in and now time to fit it out

[Inspector]

I've had one quote for £280 for 2 doors, one of about 900 wide and one I think about 550 to fill the gap.

I need to put storm doors (aluminium and glass/screen) on my double shop doors to keep the driving rain from blasting past the door seals. Being slightly oversize the storm doors will need to be custom made. $2,000Can!!! Well that won't happen. I'll be making my own from Douglass Fir. In your case the quote you got is more than reasonable in my opinion.

Pete

 

[DBT85]

You've probably seen my doors.........6x1 sawn boards with a half-lap, ledged and braced. Quick and cheap, but pretty agricultural. You could make the pair in half an afternoon.

After a spate of break-ins at local outbuildings, I'm considering either replacing them with steel doors, or lining their edges with some strategically placed steel.

I appreciate your faith in my skills Mike but I promise it's misplaced

Surely the door is dependant on acquiring materials somewhere near straight in the first place? I'm assuming you made the 30mm half lap with a router?

I still don't get why my thread is pinned to the top

 

[DBT85]

Well I only went and did it. Today after arguing with a shower door for longer than I'd like in one of the holiday cottages I actually did work on the workshop!

I needed to get my wedges cut for my bottom board, but since I figured that would be easiest with a bottom board with the routed section on it I got one of my test pieces cut first. I only really needed the one router bit but since that was going to be a tenner I just got the Trend 30 piece set for I tihnk £35. I'll probably never use many of them, but If I only ever use a handful It'll have been ok. If I wear one out I can just buy a more expensive one for that in particular.

Anyway, routed edge cut with my little Bosch 600 palm router and it worked fine in 2 or 3 passes. Next to cut some wedges. I just used the mitre saw to get some batten to length and then had to arse about swapping blades over on my bandsaw to cut them to an actual wedge, it took a couple of attempts to get the ridge size. With those cut and treated I secured them on the small back wall and set about installing the stainless steel insect mesh.

Finally ready to board!

Except I now need to cut a board to length, route the cove on the back, paint the cove and the end and THEN I can install it.

So that was my progress. One board. Tomorrow at least I can just bang a load up and feel better about myself!

40 something boards painted and now dry.

Today's progress

Apart from that, my electrician has had to move the install date owing to his mothers funeral being on the same day He apologised. I told him some things in life are more important.

Also I ordered my doors. The price I was originally quoted was for a door 500mm shorter than I needed so I was glad I checked before going ahead. The price understandably went up but thats no problem. I opted for two equal doors of 780mm. In my head I thought that wasn't wide enough if I only want to open one until I actually measured one of the doors in the house!

Also I treated (trut? trote?) myself to a Festool TS55. My first Festool so the mortgage payments aren't yet too high. £400 for the saw in systainer with the 1.4m track so a little less than I've seen it for before.

Oh any my heater arrived. Only a 2kw for now but there's room to add another if needed.

 

[weekend_woodworker]

Well I only went and did it. Today after arguing with a shower door for longer than I'd like in one of the holiday cottages I actually did work on the workshop!

I needed to get my wedges cut for my bottom board, but since I figured that would be easiest with a bottom board with the routed section on it I got one of my test pieces cut first. I only really needed the one router bit but since that was going to be a tenner I just got the Trend 30 piece set for I tihnk £35. I'll probably never use many of them, but If I only ever use a handful It'll have been ok. If I wear one out I can just buy a more expensive one for that in particular.

Anyway, routed edge cut with my little Bosch 600 palm router and it worked fine in 2 or 3 passes. Next to cut some wedges. I just used the mitre saw to get some batten to length and then had to buttocks about swapping blades over on my bandsaw to cut them to an actual wedge, it took a couple of attempts to get the ridge size. With those cut and treated I secured them on the small back wall and set about installing the stainless steel insect mesh.

Finally ready to board!

Except I now need to cut a board to length, route the cove on the back, paint the cove and the end and THEN I can install it.

So that was my progress. One board. Tomorrow at least I can just bang a load up and feel better about myself!

40 something boards painted and now dry.

Today's progress

Apart from that, my electrician has had to move the install date owing to his mothers funeral being on the same day He apologised. I told him some things in life are more important.

Also I ordered my doors. The price I was originally quoted was for a door 500mm shorter than I needed so I was glad I checked before going ahead. The price understandably went up but thats no problem. I opted for two equal doors of 780mm. In my head I thought that wasn't wide enough if I only want to open one until I actually measured one of the doors in the house!

Also I treated (trut? trote?) myself to a Festool TS55. My first Festool so the mortgage payments aren't yet too high. £400 for the saw in systainer with the 1.4m track so a little less than I've seen it for before.

Oh any my heater arrived. Only a 2kw for now but there's room to add another if needed.

Well done, it is difficult to keep momentum on things when the rest of life gets in the way. It is looking really good.

 

[MikeG.]

Getting the boards painted is quite a big deal. There's lots more work in that than people realise.

 

[DBT85]

Getting the boards painted is quite a big deal. There's lots more work in that than people realise.

It's like painting a sponge. A full 9" roller covers maybe 3 or at best 4ft before needingto be dunked again.

I took to stacking 4 boardsaand doing the edges while they were clamped together, then laid them out to rolled the faces. Seemed faster somehow.

Still got about 30 to do but basically ran out of room. Hopefully today I'll have cleared a fair space and can get more done.

 

[Sheptonphil]

Still got about 30 to do but basically ran out of room. Hopefully today I'll have cleared a fair space and can get more done.

what you really need to do is build yourself a workshop to do this work in.

 

[DBT85]

what you really need to do is build yourself a workshop to do this work in.

Ha that's where I have been doing it because of this poxy weather! I appreciate the nice tan I got doimgtthe building work over lock down but it's been crap it feels like for a month. Naturally it started raining again just as I started boarding again today so I finished off upto the start of the gable and then set about other tasks like cutting the other 40 wedges, cutting boards for the door side etc.

Just about to start putting those up to at least the top of the door. Then the fiddly bit of cutting around the door or doing the gable cuts can start.

I think I've just enough boards painted now to do one full long side, leaving just the other long side and the gables to finish.

Nice to feel like some progress even if at this exact moment it's only actually 13 boards nailed up today. The actual boarding is the fast bit!

I've literally spent every spare moment today on the workshop. That of course was interspersed with taing one car for its first MOT only to have it fail and need new front shocks (under warranty at least), and collecting another car from its now passed MOT. Never a dull moment.

Anyway, pics if all we really care about.

Many bits of batten cut to length prior to being cleft in twain by the bandsaw to use was wedges.

Cladman tool in use, works very well and it only took about 25 minutes to go from this to the next photo

As I said, putting the boards up is the fastest bit after you've painted them, cut them, re painted the ends, routed the cove in the first board etc.

Last bit for the day was sorting the wedges and mesh on the door wall. I then nailed the first boards up either side of the door and called it a day.

I have the next 9 boards on each side already cut and ready to nail up so tomorrow morning I can make happy progress to start my day.

 

[DBT85]

I've done the boards either side of the door and before I make an arse of myself I just wanted to check something.

For the next board here, am I just cutting a door sized notch in one board? I'm wondering about water dripping from the edge of that board onto the top of the door frame rather than over the front of it like we've done with the cove on the bottom board to arc over the brick plinth.

Just roughly in place so spacing may not be perfect

While I await your comments I'll make a start on the window side. For now I'm boarding over the window openings and will open them up when time permits.

Naturally its raining, again. Taking bets on having a october heat wave as I'll be inside by then!

 

[Sheptonphil]

I’ve put a drip strip over my doors. It extends over the door, on top the lining, and up behind the cladding In one single piece. All water is directed over the door and can’t track back under, which is what will happen with your temp piece pictured. I guess you could make similar with a piece of DPC plastic.

 

[DBT85]

Well that's it for the cladding today as I have no more painted boards left. I was on track to be able to do 2 rows on the long side with just 3 boards, till I remembered that there isn't a stud at 4.8m from one end so I'd have to cut every board until I reached the windows.

Since the windows are being covered for now but will at some point be cut out properly, I got away with using full boards and some of the offcuts from the rows below. The ends are not fixed in the middle of the window opening but that's fine as it's getting cut out eventually anyway. I've staggered the boards so there's not actually any movement to worry about at the ends anyway. It'll look nicer when it has windows that's for sure.

Time to clean the workshop and get ready to paint the remaining 32 boards. I THINK I have enough to do everything that's left. That's why I've done the front before the back. I'd rather have as few joins as possible in the side that'll get more eyes on it.

I’ve put a drip strip over my doors. It extends over the door, on top the lining, and up behind the cladding In one single piece. All water is directed over the door and can’t track back under, which is what will happen with your temp piece pictured. I guess you could make similar with a piece of DPC plastic.

Ah ok that makes sense. I can;t see anything poking out over your door. I'll see what pearls Mike throws up before I do anything.

Incidentally, is there a magic secret for going the gable boards? I'd planned to just cut one end to the right angle have a measure and do too much up and down a ladder to get them to fit.

 

[Sheptonphil]

Ah ok that makes sense. I can;t see anything poking out over your door. I'll see what pearls Mike throws up before I do anything.

Incidentally, is there a magic secret for going the gable boards? I'd planned to just cut one end to the right angle have a measure and do too much up and down a ladder to get them to fit.

this shows the principal of the drip cap.

Once you have a pattern for your angle at the gable, cut one end. With an angled off cut you can work out the point of intercept with the gable each side. Measure between those two points and you have your length at the longest point when set with the correct overlap. Simple now to make a piece with the angle both ends at the correct length. If you cut it too short use it further up the gable.

 

[MikeG.]

Pentice board, DBT85. Replace that top board over the door with one slightly wider, cut a little slope on the top of the side pieces, so that the pentice board slopes down and out a little. You can also cut a piece of DPC and sit it over the top and up the wall, so that any water that gets in sits on plastic rather than wood before it makes its way back out again. I'm sure there are photos on my workshop build thread on WHll.

 

[DBT85]

I think I understand. I did have a look at your thread yesterday for inspiration but couldn't see anything bit I'll have another look.

Phil where did you get the drip strip?

 

[DBT85]

How about this. Rather than chopping out the existing boards used to frame the door, I instead use a new 10mmm board secured to the battens over the door like this at an appropriate angle. I can still put some spare DPC on top as additional protection.

Keeps the door opening square and would require less being hacked off the door when it arrives.

How much wider than the existing frame for the pentice? 50mm each side?

 

[GerryKnowles]

I've drawn it up with the 2 large windows that are kicking around here. 960x1750 and 960x 1140. May be too large for that 4x6 lintel??

Thought they'd look too big but its not too bad. Given though that I can just order windows any size I want (and would eventually have to replace these dead ones anyway) I might just not bother with them at all.

Large windows

Smaller windows

Hi , Can you advise what aoftware you used to create these drawings they are really good. I am trying to find something but struggling at present

 

[DBT85]

Hi , Can you advise what aoftware you used to create these drawings they are really good. I am trying to find something but struggling at present

Hi Gary,

I used Fusion 360, its free to use for anything short of actual commercial work. I actually have the entire workshop in a file that (if I find the right version of the file) is scalable so you (or I) can modify it to suit your requirements.

 

[MikeG.]

........How much wider than the existing frame for the pentice? 50mm each side?

Can be, but you'll have awkward cutouts in your boarding. Mine is flush with the verticals. You door frame is going to sit in behind those liner boards, isn't it? Therefore a slope on the top of the cheek pieces won't make any difference, surely.

 

[DBT85]

Can be, but you'll have awkward cutouts in your boarding. Mine is flush with the verticals. You door frame is going to sit in behind those liner boards, isn't it? Therefore a slope on the top of the cheek pieces won't make any difference, surely.

I'd planned to just do the same as seen here. The door hinges will be secured to the vertical boards.

If by frame you mean the bit that stops the door swinging inwards then yes it'll be back from the front face of those vertical boards.

 

[MikeG.]

I think I understand. I did have a look at your thread yesterday for inspiration but couldn't see anything

Yep, that'll be on account of my window and door being under the eaves. Sorry.

I've just nipped out and taken these two.....utitlity door, and bike shed door: