Danish Oil

[Garno]

I have just put a coat of Danish oil on a 9" x 3" bowl and I have to say I am not overly impressed.

Will the look become more shiny when I put the additional coats on? (It's a minimum of 5 hours between coats so I will put on one per day.) or should I be putting friction polish or burnish cream in-between coats? Finally would I be better off adding a wax polish on top of it or will it eventually shine with more coats?

 

[Phil Pascoe]

You can shine it pretty much as you wish once it's bone dry. Just gently de nib every couple of coats, don't use anything else. If it feels even slightly sticky when you attempt to finish it, it isn't dry.

 

[Argus]

In my experience, various brands differ in their formulation and there are detectable differences in the finish so, there's room for experimentation.
Given that, over many years I've alighted on 'Liberon Superior' as my preferred option...... it works for me.

Sometimes Danish Oil that has sat on the shelf, either in a shop or at home, leaves a thickish residue in the bottom of the can - they say it doesn't but..... it does - so, I usually throw a few old screws and nails in the bottom of a new tin which stirs it all up with a swish around.

Here's my method, other's contrasting uses will be along shortly, I expect.

Always use a new, lint-free cloth and anticipating spontaneous combustion, at the end of each day throw the remnants in a bucket of water. On new, prepared wood I tend to dilute the first coat with about 15% white spirit on the understanding that it will drink the first applications. Slap it on wipe all over generously with a clean cloth. It will usually absorb and dry off in about 20 minutes, when it can then be wiped clean.
When it is dry to the touch, varies but sometimes just an hour or two, rag another layer on all over and leave it for a while - 15 minutes or so, then rag it all off.
Leave it until it is dry to the touch and repeat. I usually apply 3 or 4 coats, more on surfaces that will be open to wear, table tops etc. The secret is wiping it sparingly to a wet consistency then wiping the excess off, not layering with a brush - it isn't paint!

When the application has had a couple of days to dry fully, an inspection will let you decide if it is matt enough, needs a rub down or needs a bit of furniture polish, the choice is open at this stage.

If you run an open fire, the old, wet rags, once dried, will aid the kindling.... burns nicely.

Finally, opened tins of Danish Oil does have a shelf life....... the solvents are fugitive in nature.

good luck.....

More advice coming soon, I've no doubt!

 

[Garno]

In my experience, various brands differ in their formulation and there are detectable differences in the finish so, there's room for experimentation.
Given that, over many years I've alighted on 'Liberon Superior' as my preferred option...... it works for me.

Sometimes Danish Oil that has sat on the shelf, either in a shop or at home, leaves a thickish residue in the bottom of the can - they say it doesn't but..... it does - so, I usually throw a few old screws and nails in the bottom of a new tin which stirs it all up with a swish around.

Here's my method, other's contrasting uses will be along shortly, I expect.

Always use a new, lint-free cloth and anticipating spontaneous combustion, at the end of each day throw the remnants in a bucket of water. On new, prepared wood I tend to dilute the first coat with about 15% white spirit on the understanding that it will drink the first applications. Slap it on wipe all over generously with a clean cloth. It will usually absorb and dry off in about 20 minutes, when it can then be wiped clean.
When it is dry to the touch, varies but sometimes just an hour or two, rag another layer on all over and leave it for a while - 15 minutes or so, then rag it all off.
Leave it until it is dry to the touch and repeat. I usually apply 3 or 4 coats, more on surfaces that will be open to wear, table tops etc. The secret is wiping it sparingly to a wet consistency then wiping the excess off, not layering with a brush - it isn't paint!

When the application has had a couple of days to dry fully, an inspection will let you decide if it is matt enough, needs a rub down or needs a bit of furniture polish, the choice is open at this stage.

If you run an open fire, the old, wet rags, once dried, will aid the kindling.... burns nicely.

Finally, opened tins of Danish Oil does have a shelf life....... the solvents are fugitive in nature.

good luck.....

More advice coming soon, I've no doubt!

Wonderful guide just what I needed.
Thank you.
I have now printed off your reply and will let it find its home in the shed tomorrow
I also have the Liberon superior

 

[HamsterJam]

I knocked this up using scrap wood from a duck coop we demolished and a piece of worktop (found inside the duck coop).
3 coats of Rustins Danish Oil from a very old tin I have lying about, applied by brush and excess wiped off with a rag.
Polished with a cloth when dry.
I anticipate the spontaneous combustion by chucking the used rags in a garden incinerator. Not had any catch light by themselves though.

 

[paullippo]

Liberon Superior for me every time its great the more coats the more shine. Rustins never worked for me found it took ages to dry, but a friend if mine swears by it. Yes Liberon Superior does have a shelf life. Good luck with it.
Regards
Paul

 

[Phil Pascoe]

I use Rustins or Bestwood (which I find better). I didn't particularly like Liberon (I can't remember why, though .)

 

[Alpha-Dave]

I find that many layers are needed, the first one sinks in to very different degrees depending on the grain. 1 or 2 coats per day for 5 or 6 days works out well, and it goes much quicker each time as the surface asorbs less as it gets filled.

Therefore I tend to do several items as a batch, saving up for a while.

I’m not sure how critical, given the potential fire-hazard for the material, I have a couple of sheets of 0.9 mm steel from a car-body supply shop that I use to cover the benches so that I can cover to excess, allow to drip, wipe down the object and surface, then dispose of the excess.

 

[paulm]

Good advice above in various posts. Out of interest what wood is it and what grit did you finish it to ?

If you want a shiny finish, which I don't like personally but others do of course (!), then an alternative which is quicker and easier is a couple of coats of cellulose sanding sealer, light sand then paste wax, can all be done and finished in a half hour to an hour, quick and easy.

 

[Padster]

@Garno I personally nearly always use Danish oil - it's my preferred finish.

I use Colron, apply with a lint free cloth, around 4 coats at least 4-5hrs apart

Regards

Padster

 

[Garno]

I think it may be sepia but not certain, once finished I will be posting a photo and asking, I have taken it back to 600 grit.

 

[the great waldo]

I have just put a coat of Danish oil on a 9" x 3" bowl and I have to say I am not overly impressed.

Will the look become more shiny when I put the additional coats on? (It's a minimum of 5 hours between coats so I will put on one per day.) or should I be putting friction polish or burnish cream in-between coats? Finally would I be better off adding a wax polish on top of it or will it eventually shine with more coats?

Danish oil is really designed as a matt finish. Although if you build up half a dozen coats you can use 0000 wire wool and some pledge (I don't if it's still called that in Britain?) It should polish up to a semi gloss sheen. T-Cut original might shine it up a bit more? Aparently you can use Armor All to speed up drying times, I havn't tried it but maybe worth a google.
Cheers
Andrew