Dado set

[Scruples]

OK, a question for Avminster table saw folk -

I have an Axminster AC254TS table saw and would like to use a dado set. Obviously, there are only a few I can fit to the short arbour (21mm) but the Freud SD308, 6" x 10T Pro Dado Set SD206 looks a likely candidate.

Now, to sidestep the offers of advice on safety, I know the shortcomings of Dado Set use, I know I will have to make a few table inserts, and I don't have a guard; the riving knife has been reduced in height to match the normal blade siize (10") for use with a table sled and I'm a grown-up; no comments about that, please.

Is anyone who owns and uses this table saw with this Dado set, or a suitable alternative, brave enough to tell me of their choices of set, given the arbour size, and successs of using it?

 

[Spectric]

I would say that you either want a full and proper dado set as used by mr Abraham or accept that in the uk it is better to use a router table which gives the same results. I went through the same thought process when I started in woodwork and eventually realised that tablesaws were made to not accept dado stacks and maybe if you buy an old machine then it would be feasable but I accepted it was not to be and got on with the router.

 

[Myfordman]

Provided that the outer flange plus the nut has all threads engaged then you are good to go. Having the nut half hanging off is asking for trouble.
The other way is to remove the saw spindle and have one machined up to suit a full dado stack as well as a standard blades. Before embarking on that route make sure that the elongated spindle does not prevent the blade tilting to 45 degrees or if it does, see if you can remove material on the underside of the table to allow full tilt.
It might be possible to copy the Xcaliber table saw design by having an interchangeable stub on the spindle which is an elegant solution used on my table saw.

 

[fleyh]

Not a direct answer to your question, but perhaps this can help you to simplify your choice.

You mentioned two options 8" and 6" - consider this
1. Is the motor of your saw powerful enough to handle 8 inch dado without stressing itself?
2. Do you actually have a long list of projects in mind where 6" is not enough?
- If my maths is right (but do verify) - with 6" blade you get more than 1" of blade above the table. What kind of project requires deeper than 1-inch dado/groove?

 

[recipio]

There is a lot of paranoia about using dado sets in the UK. They have some advantages - they will cut clean flat bottomed dados and the table saw offers way more room than any router table. They don't protrude above the workpiece so you are unlikely to encounter any surprises.
I'd have to say that a 21 mm arbor is a bit short allowing for a stiffening flange and a nut. I have used a 2mm x 50 mm washer when I was a bit tight for space with the nut fully tightened home of course. I can't think of any situation when you would want a tilting dado.
If the OP could find some kind of 30mm to 5/8" inch adapter it would let him use the full range of American products that use the 5/8" arbor otherwise he will need the Freud 30mm bore dado set which will be restricted by lack of space.

 

[Scruples]

Not a direct answer to your question, but perhaps this can help you to simplify your choice.

You mentioned two options 8" and 6" - consider this
1. Is the motor of your saw powerful enough to handle 8 inch dado without stressing itself?
2. Do you actually have a long list of projects in mind where 6" is not enough?
- If my maths is right (but do verify) - with 6" blade you get more than 1" of blade above the table. What kind of project requires deeper than 1-inch dado/groove?

Thanks for that, but I didn't mention and 8" option in my original post.

 

[Scruples]

I would say that you either want a full and proper dado set as used by mr Abraham or accept that in the uk it is better to use a router table which gives the same results. I went through the same thought process when I started in woodwork and eventually realised that tablesaws were made to not accept dado stacks and maybe if you buy an old machine then it would be feasable but I accepted it was not to be and got on with the router.

For that I would need a full and proper table saw as used by the American legend. I would prefer to use the Dado option, but thanks for the response.

 

[fleyh]

Thanks for that, but I didn't mention and 8" option in my original post.

Is not Freud SD308 (mentioned in your original post) 8-inch ?

 

[loc0]

CMT makes dado stack 203mm on 30mm bore for EU market. I own that one and would not hesitate to get another when needed. CMT 230 Dado Pro Saw Blade Set D-203 B-6-20 d-30

 

[Scruples]

There is a lot of paranoia about using dado sets in the UK. They have some advantages - they will cut clean flat bottomed dados and the table saw offers way more room than any router table. They don't protrude above the workpiece so you are unlikely to encounter any surprises.
I'd have to say that a 21 mm arbor is a bit short allowing for a stiffening flange and a nut. I have used a 2mm x 50 mm washer when I was a bit tight for space with the nut fully tightened home of course. I can't think of any situation when you would want a tilting dado.
If the OP could find some kind of 30mm to 5/8" inch adapter it would let him use the full range of American products that use the 5/8" arbor otherwise he will need the Freud 30mm bore dado set which will be restricted by lack of space.

Yes, there is a bit of paranoia surrounding Dado sets in the UK and you're right about the quality of the cut, not to mention the ease of use and convenience of one machine. A reducer for a single blade is no problem but an adapter for a variable Dado Set might be a tall order.
Axminster have a Dado Set which is 30mm and requires an arbour of at least 21mm and I have measured the arbor thread at this length

Is not Freud SD308 (mentioned in your original post) 8-inch ?

Not according to Amazon - Freud SD308, 6" x 10T Pro Dado Set SD206 is how its advertised. I suppose Freud wrote the words?

 

[Spectric]

CMT makes dado stack 203mm on 30mm bore for EU market. I own that one and would not hesitate to get another when needed

What table saw are you using? On mine the shaft takes the blade and locating washer which are bolted on, there is not length for anything other than a standard blade.

Is the main advantage of the dado stack not just speed, you can groove faster than a router but if you are not in a rush and have a router then you can buy a lot of router cutters for £174.

 

[Scruples]

What table saw are you using? On mine the shaft takes the blade and locating washer which are bolted on, there is not length for anything other than a standard blade.

Is the main advantage of the dado stack not just speed, you can groove faster than a router but if you are not in a rush and have a router then you can buy a lot of router cutters for £174.

I'm using an Axminster AC254TS with an arbor length of 21mm which, I gather, is the shortest length it can be to hold Axminster's own Dado set. I'm only requiring cutting widths to 19mm. I'm assuming that the centre of the cutter is less wide than the cutting edges.

 

[Spectric]

Looking at your saw is there enough shaft for the bore to fit on bearing in mind it cannot sit on the threaded section. The picture shows very little shaft protruding with just a std blade, enough for the load washer and nut but not much else. My sheppach is similar except the shaft has an internal female thread and not a male thread and again it cannot take anything wider than a std blade.

 

[powertools]

I have a Dewalt radial arm saw and always felt that I needed a dado set to go with it and in the end I bought a second hand one but I hardly ever use it that is not because it scares me or that I think I am doing something that will end up with me being in a&e with my fingers in a bag It simply takes a lot of setting up and unless you have a lot of dados to make it just isn't worth the trouble.
I have just recently bought a CMT 6mm grooving blade for my table saw and I would much prefer to use that and I intend to buy another for my radial arm saw 3 passes and you have an 18mm dado.

 

[alan895]

From someone who a few years ago had a table saw that was capable of accepting a dado set and eventually buying one from the States, I soon found it to be too time consuming to keep swapping out the blades, setting it all up etc. when a router and a simple jig could do an equally good job. Looking back now I view the experience as wanting to emulate a certain Mr Abram more than anything.

 

[Noel]

Looking at your saw is there enough shaft for the bore to fit on bearing in mind it cannot sit on the threaded section. The picture shows very little shaft protruding with just a std blade, enough for the load washer and nut but not much else. My sheppach is similar except the shaft has an internal female thread and not a male thread and again it cannot take anything wider than a std blade.

View attachment 141681

Hi Roy.
Most saws that accept a dado set have the blades sitting on the threads. The threads are flat on top (Acme type, as in a vice) so not a problem.
Typical arbour from a dado compatible saw:

As for set-up v router, I find little difference, certainly sometimes one is faster than the other depending on the cut and positioning etc.

 

[Tortion-Stephen]

I have a Freud dado set with a 5/8” bore. I used in three times and have now sold the saw it fitted on, it was pretty useful but that was an 8” set.

 

[Myfordman]

Setting up a dado for me is a right first time every time

I have a simple table of exact cut widths of each combination of my blades and alongside a table for the increment given every combination of shims.
look up the largest width under the size you want, work out the shims needed and load it up.
Note that the increase in width provided by each chipper is the thickness of the body not the tip width.

 

[Myfordman]

Here is my table based on the Xcalibur dado set. Easy enough to create your own spreadsheet.

 

[Spectric]

Most saws that accept a dado set have the blades sitting on the threads. The threads are flat on top (Acme type, as in a vice) so not a problem.

That confirms my saw and that Axminster version are not dado compatable, ideally something should sit on a ground portion of a shaft to ensure concentricity and not the crest of threads but with acme type threads it looks like it is a suitable compromise. For me I find the router table is fast enough, produces clean cuts as you would expect from a fast spining cutter and is cheaper than dado stacks.