Does anyone have advice on how to cut strait lines on the scroll saw? I want to try making a box and haven't got a clue where to start on getting the really strait lines needed. I have heard a high number blade has led flex so is better. Other than that all tips greatly received.
Cutting strait lines
- Thread starter Stooby
- Start date
Help Support UKworkshop.co.uk:
toesy
Established Member
From my experience, making a layered box with a scroll saw, I would use a #7 blade and cut no more than 20mm thick in soft/hard wood (take your time on hard wood)
The higher number blade does have less flex, but if you push the wood thru, to hard it will flex and cut a nice curve in the middle of the wood.
Take your time.
The higher number blade does have less flex, but if you push the wood thru, to hard it will flex and cut a nice curve in the middle of the wood.
Take your time.
Chippygeoff
Established Member
I endorse the advice Toesy has given you. I cut 20mm thick hardwood all the time. If I am doing a batch of things, often with 12inch straight lines involved I use a number 9 blade, it's so easy to stay on the line then and I often test my results with a steel ruler by holding a piece I have cut up to the light and never see any daylight between the rule and the wood. It takes practice and I find it very easy.
finneyb
Established Member
If you cut bowl blanks with a bandsaw ie circles, the back outside edge of the blade gets more wear than the inside edge which makes it difficult, if not impossible, to cut a straight line with that blade thereafter.
I would expect it to be the same with SS blades, so using a new blade may help.
Brian
I would expect it to be the same with SS blades, so using a new blade may help.
Brian
bugbear
Established Member
Stooby":2zgo8byp said:
A mid 1920's book from Hobbies pointed out the surprising notion that it's easier to cut a complex pattern
so it looks good, rather than something with smooth flowing curves, or long straight lines.
The odd "glitch" in complexity is perceived as just more complexity by the eye, whereas
the eye/brain has a very accurate expection of where the cut should be in a smpler
pattern.
BugBear
martinka
Established Member
Stooby":3prky3ac said:
Practice. And when you have finished practising, do some more.
Because different blades will cut at a different angle, when I started scrolling I would cut a scrap piece of wood and mark the angle it cut at on the table with a pencil, to use as a guide. It wasn't spot on and the direction of the grain makes a difference, but it definitely helped until I got some experience.Walney Col
Established Member
If we're talking about real wood as opposed to plywood then unless it's directly across the grain the trouble with cutting straight lines is that the grain's never straight therefore you're having to weave gently in and out of the rings all the time. All the lines in this pattern are identical very gentle curves and (for me at least) impossible to get looking good, but it's probably the best practice you'll ever get at cutting a constantly changing grain line.
The softer the wood the harder it is to stay straight too so practice on pine!
The softer the wood the harder it is to stay straight too so practice on pine!
Attachments
ardenwoodcraft
Established Member
Good idea, I'll have to nick the grand kids Spirograph!!
