I need to cut 2 kitchen worktops at it's long length and join together however I don't have a track saw or track. Only routers and circular saws. Is it worth buying a cheap track saw from screwfix or can I cut these worktops with the tools I already have. I was thinking of screwing a timber batten to the underside of the worktop and routering but timber is never 100 straight and can't really rely on this for accuracy on both sides.
Cutting kitchen worktop advice!
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Ollie78
Established Member
The important bit where the joint is should be cut with a router and jig anyway. I am assuming you have one of these.
Your method of a batton and circular saw is fine as you should only be using this to dimension the worktop before jointing it.
Ollie
Your method of a batton and circular saw is fine as you should only be using this to dimension the worktop before jointing it.
Ollie
John Brown
Freeloading Social media influenza
What sort of worktop? Solid wood or man made?
I've done solid wood with a hand held circular saw for a rough cut and then a router for the final fit.
I've done solid wood with a hand held circular saw for a rough cut and then a router for the final fit.
John Brown
Freeloading Social media influenza
2m long and faced chipboard!
Ok, I misunderstood.
I have no useful advice. Good luck.
Ok, I misunderstood.
I have no useful advice. Good luck.
They're not pocket change but you can buy 2m long levels.
They will be straight.
I think, if I wanted to do it, I'd use my 1800mm level and attempt to realign for the last 20cm.
The last 600 join I had to make on a solid wood worktop was cut with a circular saw (not track saw) and then sanded. But that was mating to a factory cut. Matching two cuts by hand will be harder.
They will be straight.
I think, if I wanted to do it, I'd use my 1800mm level and attempt to realign for the last 20cm.
The last 600 join I had to make on a solid wood worktop was cut with a circular saw (not track saw) and then sanded. But that was mating to a factory cut. Matching two cuts by hand will be harder.
Cabinetman
Established Member
If you screw a baton / straight edge to the underside ANY movement off vertical on your router will be magnified hugely and the top edge will be all over the place, so you should cramp it from the top. Over that length it’s not ideal whatever you do.
It’s not at nice to do, but perfectly achievable with a handplane just as if you were preparing two boards for glueing.
Might need to sharpen a couple of times, that chipboard is horrible! Ian
It’s not at nice to do, but perfectly achievable with a handplane just as if you were preparing two boards for glueing.
Might need to sharpen a couple of times, that chipboard is horrible! Ian
TomGW
Established Member
You are obviously creating an island or peninsula top and I would suggest that you check the availability of these from the worktop supplier. Many are also available 900mm 1200mm etc with two finished edges.
Distinterior
Established Member
You could do the joint by means of a "Mirror Cut" with the tools you have, but you would still need a long " straight" edge....
The straight edge doesn't necessarily need to be perfectly straight, as long as it doesn't bend more than a mm or 2.
A length of edged kitchen plinth would suffice at a push. You would also need to find a way to firmly clamp the straight edge in position at each end as well as in the centre to prevent deflection during the cut.The additional central clamping/support is a must....
The 2 pieces of worktop will need to be clamped flat to a large flat sacrificial surface with a gap between them. The size of the gap will depend on the diameter of the router cutter you intend to use.
You stated you already have a normal kitchen worktop jig, so I'm assuming you have 12.7mm diameter cutters....?
If you use this size cutter, I would suggest leaving a gap of 10mm between the 2 worktops.
Set up your straight edge in such a way as to allow the router cutter to run right down the centre of the gap. Obviously, you will then be taking off 1.35mm from each edge of the 2 worktops at the same time.
If there is a slight bend in your straight edge, the bend will be mirrored in the opposing worktop edge but when the joint is brought together there will be no gap.
Make sure you keep the router snug up against the straight edge and make sure the router cutter is good & sharp.
The straight edge doesn't necessarily need to be perfectly straight, as long as it doesn't bend more than a mm or 2.
A length of edged kitchen plinth would suffice at a push. You would also need to find a way to firmly clamp the straight edge in position at each end as well as in the centre to prevent deflection during the cut.The additional central clamping/support is a must....
The 2 pieces of worktop will need to be clamped flat to a large flat sacrificial surface with a gap between them. The size of the gap will depend on the diameter of the router cutter you intend to use.
You stated you already have a normal kitchen worktop jig, so I'm assuming you have 12.7mm diameter cutters....?
If you use this size cutter, I would suggest leaving a gap of 10mm between the 2 worktops.
Set up your straight edge in such a way as to allow the router cutter to run right down the centre of the gap. Obviously, you will then be taking off 1.35mm from each edge of the 2 worktops at the same time.
If there is a slight bend in your straight edge, the bend will be mirrored in the opposing worktop edge but when the joint is brought together there will be no gap.
Make sure you keep the router snug up against the straight edge and make sure the router cutter is good & sharp.
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If you have two worktops use the front edge of one as your straight edge just clamp on at the ends, it won't flex over its length. With saw or router cut from the back not face side. A sharp (new) blade or cutter is essential. If there's a lot to remove saw first then remove 2-3 mm with the router to tidy up the edge.
If you are in Essex you can borrow my plunge saw
TY however I did go but one from screwfix for 159£. The erbauar brand. Watched some YouTube videos and all for what I need it for, it should be ok. One thing though, The are 700mm rails. After I cut near the 1400 length, can I remove the first one then move it from the back to the front to get my overall cut or will this affect my cut doing it this way.
Never even thought about this. Could have saved me 159£ lol. Although, it's bought now so might as well keep it. I'll get use of it somewhere
