Cutting holes into hardwood for tealights

[rob39]

Hi all
I have some lovely silver birch logs which I'm cutting into slabs with some sroll work detail in them so to make some tea light holders. I have some forstner bits but these are finding it difficult to cut through the hard wood. (easily cuts through pine)
Any ideas on what other bits to use to make an easy job. 48mm needed

 

[bodgerbaz]

You could always try a spade bit (available in various sizes) but take it careful. They are not as stable to use as forstner bits.

 

[paulm]

A sharp saw tooth forstner bit should cut through birch with little problem. Try a saw tooth version if you are only using a normal version at the moment ?

Cheers, Paul

 

[marcros]

Are you using it in a drill press? Are they decent dits?

 

[Chippygeoff]

I make quite a few tea light candle holders. I have found the saw toothed forstner bits to be the best and I am using really hard woods as well. I use a 1 and 7/8ths bit and then the glass tea light holder is a nice snug fit. A small drill press would struggle with a bit this size.

 

[Claymore]

will have to check the saw toothed forstner bits out as my normal bits only go upto 1/2" what's a decent brand to buy as i know some use monkey metal for bits

 

[Chippygeoff]

I got mine from Axy and there is quite a range both in metric and imperial, some are quite expensive while others are very reasonable. As I only use a couple of sizes I went for the more expensive ones and they are as sharp today as when I bought them about a year ago, but the old saying is true, you get what you pay for.

 

[Barnum]

I use a Forstner 40mm and a hand drill - something which some people say cannot be done.

Despite what you may think, I can cut the required holes in wood such as oak without too much difficulty. If you rock the drill gently it finds it easier. What I find tricky is keeping the base of the whole flat - particularly when you rock it during the cut - but the actual cutting shouldn't be too hard with a decent Forstner and powerful drill. Note you can buy some fairly roped Forstner bits of Ebay that are poorly made, dull quickly and get too hot while cutting.

 

[marcros]

i found the screwfix set to be pretty good as a set. http://www.screwfix.com/p/forstner-bits ... -set/83345

They are on offer from time to time.

If i was repeatedly cutting the same sized hole, I would probably go for a branded single bit, but for what i do- a few holes from time to time rather than hundreds over a day or two, they are fine.

 

[lanemaux]

I find that the failure point of many Forstner bits is the sharpness of the chip lifting wedge section. If you run a fingernail away from its natural cutting direction and feel snags you should apply a light stoning to both sides to eliminate the burr. very surprising how much this helps and how often this escapes the factory floor done poorly. I know it shocked me. My bits , new from box struggled , burned and generally drove me nuts. A few gentle swipes with the edge of a dollar store stone and they were transformed. Reason for the dollar store stone was that it was the only one I have that was a slim oval shape and the ends would fit in small spaces.

 

[Roughcut]

I would use a saw-tooth hole saw, this is what I have used in the past for making a dead hole for a clock insert.
However it will leave a small hole in the centre from the pilot drill, which probably wouldn't matter as this would be covered by the tea light candle.
If you was really fussed about it and wanted a clean bottom hole then a router with a guide bush and a template would be the answer.

 

[CHJ]

If your pillar drill* struggles to drive large Forstener bits.
Then start a shallow final guide with the largest bit.
Drill down with smaller bits increasing in size as required.
Refit final size bit and use shallow guide hole to align and complete hole to finished diameter.

*or a lathe for that matter.