Cutting groove into door for drop seal

[1animal1]

Hi, thanks for accepting me. I've got a few woodworking projects coming up and figured that it might be a good idea to join up for some expert advice.

My first project is to fit a door drop seal onto an internal door. The groove needs to be 14mm wide and 35mm deep. I'm struggling to find a long 14mm router bit so I'm currently considering a 12.7mm and doing a pass off each side of the pencil line.

My other problem is that my router is my only power tool that's ancient, a hand me down of unknown brand. It doesn't have a fence, so I figure I'm resigned to either replacing it, buying a jig of some sort or shuttering it in with wood clamped either side of the door.. which is probably not going to be ideal.

The last option is using my rail saw, but given that the cut is on the end, I think I'm going to struggle placing the rail securely.


Any thoughts on the best way to do this please?

 

[Bingy man]

You need to say what type of internal door, solid wood , veneered composite, hardwood or softwood etc supporting pictures will get you more specific advice.

 

[1animal1]

You need to say what type of internal door, solid wood , veneered composite, hardwood or softwood etc supporting pictures will get you more specific advice.

Thanks! It's a new build so it'll be a softwood cavity door. I'll probably end up replacing them with solids at some point, but for now I need to sound proof my office as much as possible, 2&4 yr old screaming doesn't go down very well on webinars

I'll try and add some pictures shortly

 

[rst rob]

Thanks! It's a new build so it'll be a softwood cavity door. I'll probably end up replacing them with solids at some point, but for now I need to sound proof my office as much as possible, 2&4 yr old screaming doesn't go down very well on webinars

I'll try and add some pictures shortly

The drop seals I've used are only for hinged doors (their a button on the hinge side that depressed when closed) usually a 19 wide Grove at 35 deep.
Could work with the button to the lock jamb but haven't tried.
Only issue with routing is its hard to find a slotting cutter that deep so end up cutting with the router on its side worth making a large fence from a ply offcut to aid support.

 

[Tris]

If your router has holes in the plate then you could make a simple saddle by screwing on ply and a couple of pieces of batten. That should keep you groove where you want it.

If you've got some spare timber it would be worth knocking up a couple of door feet to make the job easier

 

[Bingy man]

Thanks! It's a new build so it'll be a softwood cavity door. I'll probably end up replacing them with solids at some point, but for now I need to sound proof my office as much as possible, 2&4 yr old screaming doesn't go down very well on webinars

I'll try and add some pictures shortly

It’s amazing how young kids can make so much noise-obviously their vocal cords must develop first , and of course the ability to say no ..

 

[1animal1]

It’s amazing how young kids can make so much noise-obviously their vocal cords must develop first , and of course the ability to say no ..

That and the dogs howling, I'm not sure what's worse....

 

[1animal1]

The drop seals I've used are only for hinged doors (their a button on the hinge side that depressed when closed) usually a 19 wide Grove at 35 deep.
Could work with the button to the lock jamb but haven't tried.
Only issue with routing is its hard to find a slotting cutter that deep so end up cutting with the router on its side worth making a large fence from a ply offcut to aid support.

That's exactly the issue. If you go too long on the flute bit then you have to precut the groove first owing to the routers drop limitations. I'm tempted to buy a second hand DeWalt with double fence, I'm just not sure I'll get the full use and would prefer to buy a trim router eventually with saddle.

 

[1animal1]

If your router has holes in the plate then you could make a simple saddle by screwing on ply and a couple of pieces of batten. That should keep you groove where you want it.

If you've got some spare timber it would be worth knocking up a couple of door feet to make the job easier

Both great ideas, especially the door feet for when I eventually replace them.

I believe there are holes in it and I do have a few big pieces of ply knocking about. That could work really well as the long flute bit I need are generally very long. The additional ply would help.

 

[1animal1]

 

[1animal1]

 

[1animal1]

Standard door as you can see. I need to seal it around the frame too and was contemplating drilling and filling with expanding foam, but the egg box design on ones I've demolished in the past and presumably built into this would stop that being effective

 

[Tris]

If you've got one of those egg box doors I'd be tempted to get on Freecycle or Trashnothing for a temporary replacement as there's often solid doors being given away on there

 

[hlvd]

Hi, thanks for accepting me. I've got a few woodworking projects coming up and figured that it might be a good idea to join up for some expert advice.

My first project is to fit a door drop seal onto an internal door. The groove needs to be 14mm wide and 35mm deep. I'm struggling to find a long 14mm router bit so I'm currently considering a 12.7mm and doing a pass off each side of the pencil line.

My other problem is that my router is my only power tool that's ancient, a hand me down of unknown brand. It doesn't have a fence, so I figure I'm resigned to either replacing it, buying a jig of some sort or shuttering it in with wood clamped either side of the door.. which is probably not going to be ideal.

The last option is using my rail saw, but given that the cut is on the end, I think I'm going to struggle placing the rail securely.


Any thoughts on the best way to do this please?

Just be aware that a 35mm deep groove will probably compromise that door’s structural integrity as there isn’t much depth either side of the lock block.

 

[Stevekane]

Some of those modern doors are built like a drum, very light and as has been said, egg box style cardboard to stop it flexing,,Im only guessing but I do wonder if your going to go to all this trouble and expence only to find its just as noisey? Making any room soundproof is I think quite a task and doing it in a new build house perhaps even harder?
Steve.

 

[cowtown_eric]

hollow care doors typically have 1"ish solids on the edges, so however you cut the slot in the bottom, yer likely gonna have problems.

It's been years since I bought one, but at one point they were available as "reno doors" with more substantial bottom pieces which if you got the details about the blocking inside might be suitable.

 

[clogs]

build a shed / outside office.......
screaming kids are worse than a howling dog.....
u can shoot the dog.......
Never ever wanted kids.......

 

[1animal1]

If you've got one of those egg box doors I'd be tempted to get on Freecycle or Trashnothing for a temporary replacement as there's often solid doors being given away on there

I've check and the bottom frame has plenty of depth left, they aren't the cheapest doors I've seen

 

[1animal1]

Some of those modern doors are built like a drum, very light and as has been said, egg box style cardboard to stop it flexing,,Im only guessing but I do wonder if your going to go to all this trouble and expence only to find its just as noisey? Making any room soundproof is I think quite a task and doing it in a new build house perhaps even harder?
Steve.

The worst case scenario, I can use this same cassette in a replacement solid door if needed. The office does have solid brick walls, so the door is the only factor to worry about luckily

 

[1animal1]

build a shed / outside office.......
screaming kids are worse than a howling dog.....
u can shoot the dog.......
Never ever wanted kids.......

Did that at the last house, then realised the joys of heating and cooling it effectively. I have a dedicated study office now so could sound proof it properly for a fraction. It is all solid walls though, so I just need to solve the door problem.

I am actually down with shooting one of the dogs, the appropriately renamed 'cockanob'