Cutting formica

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stuartpaul

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I'm just entering the home straight in making Mr M's mortice jig and need to cut some formica into strips.

Having never had to do this before (always just cut over size and trimmed!) I wondered if there are any specific ways to do this without white shrapnel flying around the workshop!

One of the edges is 'castellated' so the trimming trick won't work, - at least one of the edges has to be straight so it can be lined up when gluing.
 
If cutting formica on any machine you need to place a sacrificial board on the table and cut into it so that you have a zero clearance surface. Formica can then be cut face up on a band saw. If on the circular saw lower the blade so that the blade just cuts through by the tooth height. If the piece of formica is long you may need something to stop it riding up the blade such as a spring fence or push stick.

If cutting by hand a hack saw is best (but slow). and make sure the formica is on a flat board or table to stop it flexing
 
I took Jason's advice a few months ago and the pack of blades worked really well. Because of their thinness and flexibility, a full sheet (or, even, a half-sized one) would be awkward to cut on any kind of saw. With those blades, you simple score a line and snap it, with a clean break every time. 8)
 
I also use those blades in a Stanley knife, recommended by Jason. They are designed specifically for cutting laminates and once the surface is scored, you can remove the straight edge and the blade will remain in the cut. You can either cut right through (takes a long time) or score deeply and snap upwards. For a really fine finish, plane with a finely set block plane - best to hone the edge to a steep angle. This was the standard way of cutting laminates back in the 1970s when everyone used it.

Cheers :wink:

Paul
 
stuartpaul":37tewmnv said:
I'm just entering the home straight in making Mr M's mortice jig and need to cut some formica into strips.

Having never had to do this before (always just cut over size and trimmed!) I wondered if there are any specific ways to do this without white shrapnel flying around the workshop!

One of the edges is 'castellated' so the trimming trick won't work, - at least one of the edges has to be straight so it can be lined up when gluing.

Stuart, I spent Saturday afternoon making the same jig, having bought Steve's dvd earlier in the week. I haven't put any laminate on top (I don't have any!) but will just varnish it with floor diamond hard varnish and wax - that has worked on previous jigs.

some other initial observations..
I have 2 trend style router fences but my old elu MOF96e router guide rods were too short to take both given the width of the jig, so I have today ordered 500mm ones from ebay (stainless steel 8mm @ 500mm = £8.80 for two posted).

I think I can add two improvements to the jig (not tried yet)....I need to mortice into frame that is 40mm wide x 20mm thick - this means the whole piece is small enough to be fully above the top of the vice and when tightened 'splays' the jig - it needs a lower block to limit vice travel. the other improvement would be to add a timber depth stop so that the top of the machined timber is automatically flush with the top. If you are morticing into larger pieces and can hold the end, these issues may not be obvious.

Dave
 
Where do you guys get your formica from?

Can it be mail ordered?

I need some of the thin stuff (not laminated onto substrate)....the dark brown back stuff in white.

Jim
 
jimi43":2yfa1b0g said:
Where do you guys get your formica from?

Can it be mail ordered?

I need some of the thin stuff (not laminated onto substrate)....the dark brown back stuff in white.

Jim

I have loads of it sitting here, free if you want some. I am based in east London, however pass through kent on the way to east sussex.
 
This may not be applicable to the OP needs but when doing work with laminates in the workshop I lay out a sacrificial 18mm mdf sheet on the workbench and cut the laminate with a festool plunge saw and rail. The saw is set to take a 2-3mm cut and the saw is pulled backwards to take a scribing cut through the laminate to get a clean chip free edge.

cheers

jon
 
Thanks everyone - looks like stanley blades are the way to go.

Will also probably try a 'zero clearance' approach on the table saw just to see if it works well.

Formica was from an 'Arkwrights Emporium' type of shop near here that lets you buy single nuts and bolts!! Ah - the good old days :D
 
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