Cutting a Donkey's Ear

[Smudger]

I tried making a box this week - it generally worked OK but the mitred corners are slightly open. I cut them using a mitre box (Stanley one:

The cuts were OK, but wandered slightly. I tried to clean them up, but my shooting board doesn't have either a Donkey's ear or a bird house, so I had to do it freehand, which doesn't really work. So I need to make one. I am using DC's plans from the Lee Nielsen website.

Question - how do I cut the DE or BH? I have access to a decent sliding mitre saw, can I do that, or do I need to do it by hand for extra accuracy? In which case I am back with the same problem...

Or do I just borrow someone else's to make mine?

Edited to eradicate Chimp typing...

 

[wizer]

This is the main reason I ran mine through the bandsaw a few times. It's chicken egg. You need an accurate shooting board to make an accurate shooting board. I wish someone in the Uk would make these for sale!

 

[Smudger]

Emir used to make them, but I've never seen one for sale.

My shooting board was made by the LCC woodworking department.

 

[Paul Chapman]

The donkey's ear attachments that Woodbloke and Newt made were the best, in my view - maybe they'll post their pictures again.

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[woodbloke]

The donkey's ear attachments that Woodbloke and Newt made were the best, in my view - maybe they'll post their pictures again.

Cheers :wink:

Paul

Here's a pic of Pete's (Newt) original board:

complete with the Donkey's Ear shoot that sits on top of the main 'shoot. This design is so good (every part is adjustable) that I copied it and made one for myself and also for Waka. The hold down toggle clamp secures it to the board and there's pin (not shown) underneath on the other side - Rob

 

[Smudger]

So, instead of trying to cut a perfect 45º in a solid block of timber, it is made up of 5 pieces, the angles being much easier to cut. Brilliant!

What is the adjustment on the 45º fence for?

That seems a lot more doable, but I'll have to wait a couple of weeks - I'm on a plank raid to France next week (€7.48 for 10m of floorboards - very variable quality but fine for French rustic stuff), then Fireworks, D&M show and Remembrance Sunday...

 

[Paul Chapman]

What is the adjustment on the 45º fence for?

That fence needs to be at 90 degrees to the base, so if you make the top hole over size, you can slacken off the wing nut and adjust it to get it exact.

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[bugbear]

This is the main reason I ran mine through the bandsaw a few times. It's chicken egg. You need an accurate shooting board to make an accurate shooting board.

Not true.

As long as you can take adjustment shavings, you simply cut a (scrap) test piece, measure it, and tweak.

BugBear

 

[Smudger]

I was thinking of using a solid block - which I think would be tricky to get right. The idea of using cut timber which I can mark out seems much easier.

Another point - my shooting board is clamped in the front vice, so I work along the bench, whereas DC's is like a bench hook so he works across the bench. Which looks like it might be more comfortable. Any opinions?

 

[Paul Chapman]

Another point - my shooting board is clamped in the front vice, so I work along the bench, whereas DC's is like a bench hook so he works across the bench. Which looks like it might be more comfortable. Any opinions?

It's always easier if you can stand behind the shooting board rather than at the side of it. Depends how wide your bench is and whether it's against a wall - you might not have enough room to plane across the bench without the plane hitting the wall. Another option, which I use, is to clamp it between the end vice and a bench dog so that I can stand at the end of the bench.

Cheers :wink:

Paul

PS I made a couple of really simple 45 degree shooting boards recently to do some picture frames - I'll post some pics later.

 

[Alf]

If you're not confident you can make it accurate, make it adjustable. :wink:

Cheers, Alf

 

[Boz62]

I've recently made my first shooting board and made it bench hook style. So I stand behind it push the No 4 away from me. Don't even need to clamp it. Works well. Another of those accessories that I bodged away without for years, but it has now taken me another large step forward .

Boz

 

[wizer]

Remember what Steve Maskery did? He skewed the hook so that you shoot diagonally across the bench. That give you more length if your workbench is up against a wall.

 

[newt]

More pics, note the pivot pin on the two attachments, and the hole in the top left hand corner of the basic board which recieves the pivot pin.

 

[Smudger]

If you're not confident you can make it accurate, make it adjustable. :wink:

Cheers, Alf

The voice of experience/genius!

Thanks, Pete. It's all becoming a bit clearer. I really like the adjustability as that will (per Alf) solve a lot of problems. I think I'll use solid wood, though. Has anyone thought of a corrugated running board? Just an idea.

 

[woodbloke]

Has anyone thought of a corrugated running board? Just an idea.

The one in all the pics has a corrugated running board..a Tesco's chopping board that's slightly dimpled...all bases have been covered :wink: - Rob

 

[Smudger]

 

[Paul Chapman]

Has anyone thought of a corrugated running board? Just an idea.

Now you're making it complicated :lol: If you look at Pete's, he's stuck (double-sided tape I think) a piece of flexible cutting matt (the type they sell at Tesco's and other supermarkets) on the running board. I've tried his and it makes a significant difference in reducing the friction on the plane. Well worth doing.

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[Smudger]

I was going to run a beading cutter alon the board - no? Overelaboration?

Perhaps* you're right. Think of all the extra chances for messing it up!





*As in quite certainly, but I ain't admitting it yet!

 

[Paul Chapman]

I was going to run a beading cutter alon the board - no? Overelaboration?

I wouldn't :wink:

Keep in mind that you sometimes need a left-hand and right-hand shooting board. An example would be when you are using conventional picture frame moulding, which is shaped, so you can't simply turn it over to plane the other end.

You can make one board serve both purposes but I decided to make a matched pair. All very simple. A piece of lipped MDF for the base board; another piece of MDF for the top piece, glued on with a couple of biscuits; and a hardwood fence fitted with countersunk head machine screws , washers and nuts. Drill one or both holes in the fence slightly over size to allow movement to adjust it to exactly 45 degrees.

Very quick and easy to make and uncomplicated.

Gloaty plane included just for scale :lol:

Cheers :wink:

Paul