Cutting 38mm beech worktop with a 1/4’ or 8mm router

[Oaktree11]

Hi guys,
I know that a 1/2” router is desirable but what I have to hand is a Festool 1010 router. I need to cut a sweeping radius on the corner of some solid wood worktop.
What I am THINKING of doing is this:
Making a template from 12mm ply and using it to guide a jigsaw to say 5mm from the cut line.
Using the same template to guide the router with a flush trim bit with a top bearing using a guide bush taking small cuts to say 20mm then removing the template and guide bush and using the bearing guided cutter to cut the rest OR using a bottom bearing flush rim bit from the other side of the worktop.
Any thoughts or advice welcome
Thanks
John

 

[topchippytom]

The main thing is have you got the cutting depth with the router

 

[Oaktree11]

Well, I have certainly got the cutting depth to trim half depth, 19mm. That was my worry about trying to do the job with just a router. I figured that if i cut off most of the waste with the jigsaw, the router should be able to handle the trimming?

 

[Nelsun]

I radiused some corners with my 1010 at the weekend and that was with 6mm template and top guided bit. I only just managed to clear the 21mm thick oak with the bit seated at the minimum insertion marker as the collet would foul the template edge at full plunge. Having said that, the cutting edge was only 10mm high so a longer bit (~30mm) would / should clear 38mm? Maybe.

 

[mbartlett99]

You can do it - i've used my 1010 to cut fairly deep mortices. Just take it easy. You can also get an 8mm collet/bit for that unit which is a hell of a lot beefier.

 

[topchippytom]

Just be careful how far you pull the shank out of the collar to give extra depth as can be dangerous.

 

[Oaktree11]

Thank you for all the help. Actually, with the 8mm collet I think I might be able to get away with a 50mm long straight cutter if I take it steady.

 

[topchippytom]

just go slow and steady