Custom Built table saw, scroll(ish) saw and router table

[marknotts]

Hi a little background... I live in an end of block town house and my workshop is the kitchen, I do have neighbors so noise is an issue ( I dont get a lot of complaints but I am respectfull )

I have recently bought a cheap kitchen table and would like to turn it into a workstation incorporating a table saw, upside down jigsaw kind of like a scroll saw but with less extreme curve cuts and a router to save space, when table needs to be used for its designed purpose I can lower the blade, remove jigsaw bit and router bit, lay plyboard over it and a table cloth and use it for a table... smart idea that I could patent if I wasn't so vocal

I have been looking around for an induction motor handheld circular saw for the table saw part of it and I havn't seen any so that has put the kybosh on quietness, unless someone knows of any? , if not then does anyone know of a good induction table saw which I can mount under the kitchen table with the blade rising through it? some of you might think I've been drinking too much but I have already made router tables and table saws I just want one unit that is more practical for space and also minimal noise, the Einhell circular saw I am currently using as a makeshift table saw sounds like a banshee with pmt

the jigsaw I have is a dewalt and the router is a 1500w SIP, both are quiet at notch 2, I know a faster cutting speed on both is wise but I just move slower, it's a fair trade off for quieter running and I dont feel awkward when I should be thinking happier thoughts!

oh p.s. , I wont be making money with the work I do with it so the budget is a hinderance or I would be ordering a charnwood w650 and modifying the top with a sheet of ply https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R6_O9AeQQHc , my budget ideally would mean having an induction table saw for under £300, if I did have the money trust me I would rent workshop space and build a good shop :/

 

[woodbrains]

Hello,

No induction motors in hand held circular saws, they are far too big for the same power output. Induction motors in static machines only.

If I had to work in a kitchen as a workshop, I should only consider hand tools. Routing at low speeds to keep the noise down is self defeating, they are meant to be convenient! Make a good workbench and get quiet, efficient and less messy hand tools, would be my advice. The dust in the rest of your house from a router would be unhealthy, for a start. There are a few good books on hand only woodwork, to show the scope of what you can do. Try the unplugged workshop by Tom Fidgen. After all, everything was made this way once.

The only machine I think is feasible, probably essential, is a bandsaw.

Mike.

 

[marknotts]

thanks mate I'll consider it, oh I have a bandsaw it's a record BS250 which I need to have a look at, I'm having a problem with it ever since I swapped the stock 3/8 blade for a 1/4 blade..

the top wheels tension is as tight and high as it can go, all 6 guide berings are now adjusted so they are a gnats whisker away from fully pinching the blade, when I run some wood through it the blade follows the grain of the wood and actually getting a straight cut is impossible, even with the top bering rail lowered so it is nearly touching the wood. , the wood I was trying on recently was an oak scrap approx 20mm thick which for that bandsaw should be a breeze.

the saw blade has only been used once to make some 20mm engineered floorboards fit at the edge of the wall, I needed to cut the boards from 190mm wide to 110mm , the floorboards are 16mm ply and 4mm oak topped, the cuts were not absolutely straight and not really needed to be as they will be under skirting board but a lot straighter than the recent cuts

 

[misterfish]

The thing is that not all bandsaw blades are made equal and most of us recommend Tuff Saws for blades. In your situation I would give Ian at Tuff Saws a ring as he is very knowledgable and helpful and will suggest the best type of blade for your needs.

Misterfish

 

[marknotts]

thanks mrfish I'll save that page into favs and give him a ring when ordering, I do need a good 1/4 blade for longer pieces, I've got a hardwood kingsize bed I'd like to make so long straight cuts are needed , I re inserted the original 3/8 blade that came with the bandsaw, fettled a little and it's running a lot better than it was before i first changed to a 1/4" so I now know I havn't got a dud bandsaw!

Woodbrains thanks again I now know that I will not be needing a tablesaw for a while as I can now use the bandsaw properly and it gives straight cuts, for bigger pieces for now I can use a handheld worx saw and a clamped straight edge, depth is easily ok at max 27mm

 

[woodbrains]

thanks mrfish I'll save that page into favs and give him a ring when ordering, I do need a good 1/4 blade for longer pieces, I've got a hardwood kingsize bed I'd like to make so long straight cuts are needed , I re inserted the original 3/8 blade that came with the bandsaw, fettled a little and it's running a lot better than it was before i first changed to a 1/4" so I now know I havn't got a dud bandsaw!

Woodbrains thanks again I now know that I will not be needing a tablesaw for a while as I can now use the bandsaw properly and it gives straight cuts, for bigger pieces for now I can use a handheld worx saw and a clamped straight edge, depth is easily ok at max 27mm

Hello,

Could have been a dud bandsaw blade, but a couple of observations. Dunno what engineered floorboard you cut, but nasty glues in manufactured wood trounces carbon steel blades pretty quick, the dull blade will not cut straight. Also, too much tension on the thin blade is a bad as too little, for tracking problems.

Mike.

 

[Steve Maskery]

How many teeth are on the blade, per inch?

 

[marknotts]

How many teeth are on the blade, per inch?

I dont know but it was fairly high, I threw the blade away when I knew it wasn't any good, it was a custom blade bought from somewhere online, nothing special just tct