Couple of metalworking questions.

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I've been looking at the Warco stuff. The WM 12 is do-able but they only have it in imperial variant; sold out of metric. Don't really know what that means on a practical level.

Second question would be suitability for use with wood, which is still my main area of work. I imagine it would be well powerful enough to drill a 50mm hole in wood with a forstner bit for instance? Are there any other considerations when using this for wood over metal?

Also been looking at the Chester Conquest, which is a bit cheaper if anyone has any thoughts on that machine.
 
skipdiver":2ofosjrg said:
I've been looking at the Warco stuff. The WM 12 is do-able but they only have it in imperial variant; sold out of metric. Don't really know what that means on a practical level.

If you're comfortable switching between systems, it means very little. I often make metric parts on my imperial machines. The size of the slot you're cutting is of course defined by the size of the cutter (slot drill) which can be either imperial or metric. If you set up stop blocks on the mill table, and set limit stops for the table itself*, you'd only have to set it up once and all your parts would come out identical.

I don't see drilling wood being a problem as long as the speed goes high enough. Personally though I prefer not to mix wood and metal where possible. I don't like sawdust getting into my machines or swarf getting near my woodwork. Needs must, though.

* if the machine has that facility, that is. Mine doesn't, but it's not a conventional mill.
 
I don't mind working in either metric or imperial, but am at a bit of a loss as to why these machines come in both variants. Is it the parts you fit to them, ie chucks that differ? Is it the register marks and displays that are in inches, instead of cm's?

Ideally, i wouldn't want to mix wood and metal on the same machine bit space is the issue i have. I think if i rig up a good extraction system, i can minimise cross contamination.
 
Difference between metric and imperial will only be the dial, on a mill the leadscrews etc won't matter as long as the dial graduations are correct. Leadscrews are only important on a lathe for screwcutting.
 
that arboga is crazy money
it does have a nice table but still
I recently paid a fraction of that

Steve
 
I'd be quite happy to pay £400 or more for what i require. I will keep an eye out on all the usual sites as i am in no hurry. I have enough parts machined up to keep me going for a while, so thought i would start looking at possibilities well ahead of time, given that my metal working skills and knowledge are negligible.
 
I just paid 430 for my arboga
but without a table
so add that and then a vice on top the price did climb up quite a bit
mine is imperial but with the addition of some linear scales (more money) this would give you metric as well
so while you are keeping an eye out, be mindful if you want\have to add extras

Steve
 
skipdiver":1b5x1259 said:
I don't mind working in either metric or imperial, but am at a bit of a loss as to why these machines come in both variants. Is it the parts you fit to them, ie chucks that differ? Is it the register marks and displays that are in inches, instead of cm's?

Ideally, i wouldn't want to mix wood and metal on the same machine but space is the issue i have. I think if i rig up a good extraction system, i can minimise cross contamination.
As MucicMan has said, it's the lead-screws which determine which measuring system is used and that means that the dials have to match. The tool-holding and work-holding parts can be whatever you want/have. Chucks are held in Morse tapers with draw-bars and both Imperial (3/8" BSW) and Metric (M10) draw-bars are supplied with both variants.

I have the WM 16 and use it for all sorts of materials - Steel, Brass, Alum, Delrin, Tufnol, Perspex, all manner of exotic and home grown hardwoods plus plywood and chipboard. There is nothing extra to take account of when switching between wood and steel than there is between Brass and Alum - yes you need to be aware of potential cross contamination of swarf and sawdust if you are disposing of it considerately but that's just a part of normal workshop etiquette.

The 12 has a top speed of 2000 and the others 2250. Not the speed of a router, planner/thicknesser, spindle molder, Dremmel or Kress, but if you work that much on wood the chances are that you already have that sort of equipment anyway. I used to have a Proxxon MF 70 - two in fact - both of which had a motor burn out and Proxxon didn't bother to answer my requests for replacement (motor that is). That ran at 5-20000 and when I bought the WM 16 it was one of my 'issues' but in reality I haven't been compromised - I've made more use of my router table, but even that only runs at 3000.

I'm not convinced that the 500W of the WM 12 would handle a 50mm Forstner bit in (say) Oak but it probably would in chipboard. I only have up to 40mm so can't do a test in my 750W WM 16. I know that my 370W Pillar Drill doesn't perform well with my 40mm in softwood or chipboard!

If your budget can stretch the extra £150 to the WM 14 you gain a number of benefits, 12½% more speed, 20% more power, 32% more travel, 25% longer table, 20mm more 'throat' - and the metric version is in stock.

It would be worth giving Warco a call to determine how long the metric WM 12 is likely to be out of stock, it may well be that they have a shipment due or recently arrived and in their pre-sale inspection dept. (that happened when I bought mine, I had to wait about 10 days).

I must disagree with Rorschach (cross-post). Metric Dials on Imperial Lead-screws would be the worst of all worlds. Assume 10 tpi, one turn would be 2.54mm so the dial would have to have a mark every 14.173228° (for .01mm) with a space of 5.66929° !!! - - I know we now have CNC options and it could easily be done but why? If you have Glass Scale DRO that's a different kettle of fish and both systems can co-exist.
 
Thanks for the first hand info J-G. It's always nice to hear from someone who has the tool you are considering. I'll probably never drill a 50mm hole in oak. I do have a 50mm forstner bit, but it's not been used in anger yet. I think the 12 would be adequate for my needs but i'll talk to Warco and see what they have to say before i make any decisions.
 
Imperial Arboga? That's unusual, as they were made in Sweden and Germany. Still as you say, with linear scales you'd never look at the dial.
 
MusicMan":39gnb2ot said:
Imperial Arboga? That's unusual, as they were made in Sweden and Germany. Still as you say, with linear scales you'd never look at the dial.
sorry should have stated the drill is metric
the table is imperial

Steve
 
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