Cost difference between S4S and rough hardwoods

[Co1]

Morning all. I’m trying to determine whether to invest the cash and space in a planer thicknesses or whether to just buy S4S. I’ve got a house full of interior and exterior doors to make, a few windows, built in wardrobes and some odd bits of furniture. All likely to be oak if that makes a difference?

What do you think?

Thanks
Col

 

[squib]

A planer thicknesser would be essential imho, buying planed timber does not mean it will be straight or even dimensioned correctly. With a planer you can adjust dimensions around faults in your stock as well.

 

[HOJ]

Other factors can play a part in the decision making, have you dry space to store the timber in its raw state, and have you the facility to convert it down to rough sizes, ready for planing etc, also good chip extraction is a must, which will also take up space.

A down side of buying in pre prepared timber is you only get what you get, but still pay for what you don't.

 

[Fitzroy]

making all that from pre finished timber will be much more expensive and frustrating, you’ll be forever working around the sizes you can get and throwing away or hoarding all those bits that are just the wrong size.

Whenever I’ve look into Pre finished timber it’s seemed about 100-200% more expensive.

 

[johnnyb]

Timber that's simply been through a four sider is really useful to most hobby shops doing larger joinery tbh. Especially with oak. It just reduces the weight/labour/effort of converting very heavy raw material into something that can be sized on much smaller machinery. Take a 3 inch by 8 plank of oak maybe 15foot long. Serious machinery needed even to cross cut this.

 

[johnnyb]

Sorry my point as well is its essential in any woodwork to make things to almost any given size four square. Wanna improve your woodwork improve your method of making stuff straight and square and the right size.

 

[HOJ]

This is an an example of buying in sawn stock, the sizes and storage can be an issue, this lot was for a fairly small job:

 

[Co1]

Would I get away with something like a Metabo HC260? That looks compact enough.

 

[Cabinetman]

Just went back and read your list of future work, that’s an ambitious list. I would suggest that you will need a spindle moulder as well as a saw of some description plus extraction. Sorry!
Maybe look at a combination machine, something like a Minimax 26c which includes a SMoulder rip and cross cut saw plus planer thicknesser.
https://www.scmgroup.com/en_US/scmw...ersal-combined-machines.887/minimax-c-26g.660
About 5k but money well spent considering what you want to achieve, and a step up from hobby level.
Ian

 

[Co1]

I had thought of that, but I just don’t have the space. I’ve only got 13m2 to work with as a workshop space so it needs to be minimal to say the least. I’ve got a mitre station/bench that is probably higher than most, but it’s so that I can slide the table saw and extraction underneath it when not in use. Spindle moulder would be good, but multiple passes with the router will have to do!!

 

[Terry - Somerset]

I don't know the dimensions associated with your 13 sq m, nor whether you can use some outside space. But if (say) a door frame is going to be at least 220cm long you need a workshop space ~4.5m as a minimum to process any timber - needs infeed and outfeed.

This would not stop you buying stock of a greater length but it would need to be cut down before processing, and possibly before storage to reduce weight when manipulating in a small space.

If you can do the work outside where space is less a constraint you need a machine that can be made mobile.

 

[Jameshow]

Would I get away with something like a Metabo HC260? That looks compact enough.

Yes I think they are well regarded machines. Also sold by record, EB, SIP etc.

 

[imageel]

I'd concur with others comments wrt you needing more space and machines to handle planing, thicknessing, likely a spindle moulder and some decent chip extraction to process timbers of the size to make doors and associated frames.
I have recently sold all my gear due to failing health but had an over-crouded workshop that is 5 x 4m external, so a tad over 18m² internally and to do doors and frames with space for infeed & outfeed roller rests I'd have to place my machinery in the center of the shop.
I also had a dry and weather shielded external store to hold sawn and planed timber too.
I honestly think with only 13m² you will struggle....

 

[Co1]

Thanks. I’ve got space for indeed and out feed by opening the doors, but floor space is a bit of a compromise. We’re moving to the house in a few weeks, so I’ll take some pics of the set up once moved in. The good news is that we have a huge shed for all the wife’s gardening crap, so it is purely workshop space.

 

[johnnyb]

I have made many rebated frames on a rebating ledge of a planer. The rebate whilst simple is the building block of all joinery making. It's important to be able to make them reasonably large nicely finished and at a decent speed. The routers problem is it always leave a poor finish and is slow and dusty. I've also sawn many rebates but this also leaves a poor finish that needs a rebate plane.

 

[Mike Fletcher]

Once you get a planner / thicknesser you'll wonder how you got along without one. Couple that with a good table saw and your life will be much improved. However, you will need a decent dust extractor for both. Unless you are making some giant stuff, a router table (1/2 inch, 2000+ watt) will do everything you need. At least it does for me! Of course space is a major consideration.

 

[Co1]

Thanks Mike, I think that’s compromise. I might just be able to squeeze in a PT, but the dust extraction will have to go in the garden!! I’ve got the big Festool router and it’s has been utterly superb.

That being said, I’ll price up some oak next week in both options and see where that leaves me.

 

[squib]

I don't know the actual machine on offer but it looks to be in excellent condition but the Sheppach on here for sale are excellent machines are are extremely solidly built.
I used one commercially for several years and I sold it for what I paid. They are not easy to find but I can highly recommend.Before I had extraction I used to fire it straight into a wheelbarrow!

 

[squib]

Ps, there's only one pic but the Sheppach must have the surfacing fence with it. The later model had cast aluminium tables and looked better but was nowhere near as solid or as reliable.

 

[Co1]

Thanks Squib. That sheppach does look the business, but it’s collection only from the Isle of White!