Correct way to fit frame fixings

[bertterbo]

https://www.screwfix.com/p/easyfix-frame-fixings-10-x-135mm-10-pack/15978
What is the correct way to fix these? (the screw type, not the hammer type)

Lets say you're attaching a 4x4 timber post to a brick wall.

Do you :

- Drill hole into fence post so the screw freely moves, but with little slop
- Place post against wall and use the holes above to mark where to drill into wall.
- Drill hole into wall the length of the plug, and insert plug all the way home into wall
- Place post against wall and drive screws home.

Or :

- Drill hole into fence post the size of the plug
- Place post against wall and use same size drill bit to drill a hole into wall
- insert plug and screw and secure.

In the first method the plug is only in the brick work. In the second method, the plug ends up being the length of the timber hole, and then the remaining in the brick work.

Which is the correct way? does it really matter?

The ones I used were 80mm, but I replaced the screws with 120mm versions. I used the first way, but I counter bored the fence post so the screw was mostly in the brick work.

I've also just seen Lightning Masonry Bolt M8 x 130mm | Toolstation which seem like a much better option.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

I'd use the last ones (Thunderbolts or similar) as they are much easier to adjust than frame fixings.

 

[Bingy man]

I also would use the ones in your link to Toolstation as no plugs reqd and as long as the brickwork is sound you should be fine, just pre drill your post to get the top fixing in place , level post and drill the bottom fixing to secure then simply mark the remaining holes using say a 7 mm bit through the post into the wall . remove post and drill to required width/ depth -avoid the joints in the brickwork and reassemble. Hope I’m not teaching you to suck eggs but your post suggests that your not sure .

 

[bertterbo]

I also would use the ones in your link to Toolstation as no plugs reqd and as long as the brickwork is sound you should be fine, just pre drill your post to get the top fixing in place , level post and drill the bottom fixing to secure then simply mark the remaining holes using say a 7 mm bit through the post into the wall . remove post and drill to required width/ depth -avoid the joints in the brickwork and reassemble. Hope I’m not teaching you to suck eggs but your post suggests that your not sure .

I've already done it now as I described at the end of the post. It was more of a ... on reflection, did I do it wrong?

 

[Bingy man]

I've already done it now as I described at the end of the post. It was more of a ... on reflection, did I do it wrong?

Sorry - long day and my son stressing me out - as long as the post is solid and secure then you’ve cracked it ,

 

[Doug71]

I never use those type of fixings but they are made to be used as in your second suggestion with the plug in the wall and the frame/post.

This type are good if you don't want something as heavy duty as the bolts you linked to


https://www.screwfix.com/p/easydrive-countersunk-concrete-screws-7-5-x-120mm-100-pack/9008h

 

[sawdustandwax]

Easydrive Countersunk Concrete Screws 7.5 x 120mm 100 Pack Order online at Screwfix.com. Ideal for fixing uPVC and timber frames directly to masonry. FREE next day delivery available, free collection in 5 minutes. www.screwfix.com

Just a note on these fixings, they are very good and relatively cheap compared to say the dewalt version with the blue tip, but they very sensitive to pilot hole size as the threads are not as coarse as other makes. With hard materials the hole can end up slightly over-size, maybe by only half a mil and these simply won't bite properly. Reminded of a solution in other thread which makes a hammer drill almost redundant those bosch blue bits or expert hex-9 multiconstruction bits as bosch call them.

 

[sawdust1]

The screw heads are not up to much, one slip of your posi bit and its best to scrap the screw and get another out !

 

[bertterbo]

The screw heads are not up to much, one slip of your posi bit and its best to scrap the screw and get another out !

Torx would certainly be better I think.

 

[RobinBHM]

What is the correct way to fix these?

throw them in the bin

they are supposed to be through fixings, in theory you can use a multi drill which does both timber and masonry the screw fixing in -problem is if timber hole is too tight, you cant push plug part through and it gets stuck. Hole too big and fixing head goes straight through timber

 

[John Brown]

I used some frame fixings a couple of months ago, and they were great. I did use a wood bit for the timber though, and then used a long masonry bit through the timber and into the wall. I found them easier, and more accurate than marking through the timber and then removing it to use a masonry bit, which almost invariably wanders a bit.

 

[Spectric]

Stick to Fischer and all will be ok, they have fixings for most things and there nylon wall plugs are fantastic, really glad those old coloured plastic things are history.

 

[Jonm]

I have only scanned the replies so may be repeating the advice already given. The expanding part of the plug is at the end so the screw has to reach this part. The fixing needs to be the correct length to go through the wood and the required depth in to the wall. The whole idea is to avoid the fiddly job of lining up the holes in the wood/wall in both position and angle.

I use them by drilling all the holes in the wood, place wood against wall, drill wall by inserting masonry drill through hole in wood, insert fixing and screw in but not fully tighten, drill second hole and insert fixing and tighten but not fully. Repeat for all the holes then fully tighten up at the end. Works well. Only problem is if wall is not solid at hole position.

As for hole sizes, if it is say an 8mm fixing I use an 8mm wood drill and 8mm masonry drill.

 

[Stevekane]

Given that the frame fixings are meant to secure upvc window frames where the fitters just drill straight through the frame and into the masonary, followed up by knocking the fixing through untill that big head on the plug is flush with the frame, then doing it as you did, counterboreing the hole, is probably the only way they were going to work. Btw I discovered Bosch Blue Multi Material masonary bits just last week, a real revelation on very hard bricks that none of my other drill bits would touch, and they are designed to drill well through “multi materials” too.
Steve.

 

[accipiter]

Not saying he's right... not saying he's wrong: