keep a folded paper towel and dip it in water. Lay it on the back of whatever you're sharpening near the tip to keep the steel near the tip cool and drawing heat away.
Otherwise develop a "count" and a dip so that you don't lose track and burn an edge after getting it on and off of a belt 10 times. As in, if you burn it on the 11th, you might as well have burned it on the first.
I make stuff like this -
all of the bevels that you see (including sides) are ground after it's already hardened. high speed belts and ceramic are far cooler than anything else (you need the high speed to make the ceramic part work right - it'll just wear out fast at lower speed).
Coarse - keep the belts in coarse grit for grinding. If you decide at some point to use a wheel, coarseness is aspect one.
When I'm done with a tool, I will sometimes clean up the bevel one final time on a CBN wheel, which is far hotter than a 36 grit ceramic belt (but not nearly as brash) and it's easy to get impatient with it. I fairly often if lots of grinding is needed will use a paper towel folded (and soaking wet) into a very small rectangle, lay it on the back of the tool and then apply pressure to the paper towel, thus to the tool, thus into the belt.
If the paper towel touches the belt (or a wheel) you get sprayed, but nothing catches or flies. When the water gets warm, you get a sense that you're maybe being a little too aggressive. (it must be close to the tip, though - very close, if you have a heavy hand).
What I've found in the last couple of years grinding is the contribution of the supporting steel to the bevel in terms of overheating. As in, a cold tool will grind for a long while before you have heat issues (being reasonable with touch). If you can manage to keep the supporting steel relatively cool, this remains true. If you allow the supporting steel to get warm but not that hot, it's less efficient drawing heat away from the edge and the edge will heat faster.
This is two faceted:
1) if you let the steel even seeming far from the edge (1/4th 1/2 inch away) get hot, you'll have heat problems at the edge
2) if you can manage to cool that part efficiently, even if you're not keeping the very tip as cool as the rest, the heat will leave the tip at a reasonable rate looking for somewhere cooler to be absorbed (thus, try to get wet paper towel near or at the edge, but even if it's back just a skosh, it'll still help).
if you use my count tip with a reasonable amount of pressure, always abide by the count, don't cheat. I grind the chisel bevels above (on the ends) from square in no more than two minutes without ever getting the tip hot enough to boil water - be the dude with the count. the dude abides.
