Construction adhesive?

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Internally, I've used 'sticks like sh*t' from screwfix and was very surprised with how good it held.
Helped a mate retile his roof a few years ago and he used 'sticks like sh*t turbo' to bond the small tile cuts on several hips and valleys. Worked a treat!
 
I think it must be dependant on what the studs are used for, just to fasten an interior surface to - just adhesive as discussed. If weights on shelves are intended then all the pulling force is from the top, the bottom will be trying to go towards the wall and so I would put one bolt right through the wall and stud towards the top.
If anything moves after that it will be new garage time lol.
 
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20 years ago we built an office extension in the exact same scenario and used, then new to the world, thixotropic Foaming PU glue from a sealant gun. My son demolished it last year and the surface of the concrete came away FROM THE CONNCRETE still attached to the wood.
We rendered the whole build and that was it.
As an experiment before deciding to do it we put a squirt of PU on a concrete block and then gently laid a 100mm square block of wood on top. 25 hours later we couldn't lever it off and resorted to a sledge hammer....... Same result!

Just sayin'
Somone told me that they had a steel narrowboat fitted out using the same technique, no problems at all. That foam is certainly sticky stuff, impossible to get off hands clothes anything, so providing the studs are held whilst the foam goes off I think that it would make a terrific bond. Intrestingly I beleive they are now using foam for Dot n Dab drylining.
Steve.
 
The first time I used cartridge PU was when I stuck down a threshhold between the landing and the bathroom. Nowhere to get a good fixing and there were large rebates on each side because the two floors were not only running bit running in the opposite direction.
Five minute setting it said so I made a cup of tea, put the threshold in place and stood on it for ten minutes. Many years later it hasn't budged. PU is fine for the OP's usage, anyone who's ever attempted to demolish anything stuck with it will agree. The only thing I would say is to wash the concrete down first - no adhesive sticks well to dirt and dust, and reacts with moisture.
 
I was on a job a while ago where a builder used some PU foam to hold in a splayed window lining, great idea apart from he didn't do anything to hold it all in place while the PU set. When he went back next morning all the sides of the lining had really bent inwards due to the foam expanding, was a real mess and took him ages to sort out.
 
And I was on a job a while ago, where the builder had bought a tube of adhesive from Wurth (who I use for a range of things as well) this
stuff is apparently a very strong construction adhesive in a mastic gun tube, that sticks rapidly, non foaming, he was terrified to use it in case it went wrong.

I have used Sikaflex in the past, but they had issues with it, so I stopped using it on anything critical.
 
First a merry Christmas to everyone,,,,and secondly, I think were talking about different things, or is PU the same as the spray foam that window fitters use, it certainly looks and reacts differently to things like NoNails?
Steve. ( back to the spuds!)
 
First a merry Christmas to everyone,,,,and secondly, I think were talking about different things, or is PU the same as the spray foam that window fitters use, it certainly looks and reacts differently to things like NoNails?
Steve. ( back to the spuds!)
Pu is different but foams to fill gaps used by window fitter up and down the country.
 
First a merry Christmas to everyone,,,,and secondly, I think were talking about different things, or is PU the same as the spray foam that window fitters use, it certainly looks and reacts differently to things like NoNails?
Steve. ( back to the spuds!)
Cartridge PU is much thicker than PU adhesive or foam PU but basically the same thing.
 
Ought one be concerned about damp issues too? As in putting a membrane between the stud wall plate and the floor; and equally ensuring there is some form of ventilation/gap between the inner coverings and the outer wall? Raise the plate of the floor by one brick plus a dpc membrane; and ensure the studs do not make contact with the outer walls... ?

I'd be more inclined to consider installing an inner stud wall and roof assembly which relied on minimal - if any - contact with the outer walls (even if only via patches of adhesive). And whichever approach adopted - definitely use tanalised timber.
 
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