Considering a new Router....

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wizer

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Hello

I have been using the big Triton on my new Leigh dovetail jig, but it's a bit big and tippy for this use. Also something that bothers me about the Triton is the collet. I seem to have really tighten it to get the bit to stay still, then when removing the bit it's near-on impossible to loosen. I find myself putting all my might into loosening it, then it comes loose and things go flying. Is this a problem with all routers? It's fine in table mode because the router is screwed still. The only other router I have had is a small Ferm which used 2 spanners to unlock and tbh this wasn't much better.

It's between the small Triton and the Trend T5.

Am I alone in my collet woes?
 
I had a few issues with the Triton TRA001 and the collet when I first bought it - a nightmare to get the bits in and out. I opened it up a bit by hitting a punch into it - nice and technical, and since then had no more problems. That's mainly been when it's been in the table, as I haven't used it as a hand router. Just bought the T11 but seriously considering a T5 aswell for lighter work.
 
wizer":3ihca6sk said:
Also something that bothers me about the Triton is the collet. I seem to have really tighten it to get the bit to stay still, then when removing the bit it's near-on impossible to loosen. I find myself putting all my might into loosening it, then it comes loose and things go flying.
The TRA001 Triton uses an "Hitachi-style" collet, which is a sharply-angled female shaft into which fits a male, single-slot collet nut, via a coarse thread. Consequently, tightening the collet requires a much higher force than that of the "self-releasing" collet of the smaller Triton, the MOF001. This has a male shaft, onto which fits a female collet nut with four shallow-angled vanes, via a fine thread. Tightening this style of collet requires less force, because the thread "gearing" is kinder. This is true of all nut comparison between coarse and fine threads (and a collet is only a glorified nut, after all).

You do have to give quite a mighty heave on the spanner ("wrench" for our North American contributors) to tighten the TRA collet effectively, so an equal amount of puff is required to release it. Out of the table, this is what I do:

1) Plunge completely, engaging the spindle lock.
2) Viewed from the base, I lay the router on the bench with the left-hand (i.e., the non-winding, on/off switch side) handle touching the surface to my left.
3) Check that when the spanner engages the spindle lock, it's at the top of the stroke (12 o'clock) or just past it, as you will be turning to the left (anti-clockwise). If not, release the lock and re-position (there are four cut-outs on the collet chuck for the spindle lock, so you have a 90 degree choice between two locking positions).
4) Take up the slack towards the left with the wrench, then hold the spanner at that point, braced against the handle on the bench, so that there is no play in the spindle lock. It's important that there is no play in the spindle lock, as even the small amount of play there must be for the lock to initially engage, would diminish the effect.
5) With your free hand, strike the end of the spanner smartly and the sudden force should begin the release process. You may have to strike it twice, until you get used to the force required. Take up the small amount of play each time prior to striking.

You may have to practice this once or twice, but it's effective. I hope the explanation is clear. If not, shout. :)

Ray.
 
I have the T5 Wizer and it's ok I guess. 50/50 I think would be fair. It's pluses are a huge array of bushes colles and accessories made by Trend. My local dealer has them all including all the spares like brushes etc. If something needs replacing they'll have you up and running within the day. The sliding action often comes in for some stick as does the fine height adjustment but I find it ok. My biggest gripes are that it's a little under powered and can take the huff and stall when the going gets tough. There's a big (well by big I mean a second and a half) delay in switching it on and it actually powering up. If it's the Mk1 model this means that if you accidentally leave it on you can switch it on at the wall and be half way to the bench when it starts up which can be a shock. Again the twist lock gets some stick but again I find that not an issue as this goes away if you use the fine height adjustment which I always do. Dust extraction is rubbish. The plastic insert for it is poor quality and brittle. I've broken 2 in three years but again it's been replaced the same day at minemal cost. It's a very nice, tried and tested design and size. Not desperately ergonomic but comfortable. I think the final verdict would be that there are probably better routers on the market but you'd have to pay a lot more for them. I think it ticks most of the boxes making it the best value but not the best 1/4" router.
 
Ray, cheers. That's similar to the way I'd settled on. It does work, but it's a bit of a PITA. If the smaller Triton is a bit easier then I might go for that. I don't want to risk straining my back mucking about with the TRA001.
 
Cheers Dom. It's a dilemma. I promised myself I'd not buy any more cheap tools that I might regret. Buy quality, buy once. But then we're talking about Festool, which is silly money. I think I'll take my chances with the Trend, as I like the look of the micro fence.
 
I don't recommend a T5 for a Leigh jig. It struggles badly on hardwoods. I now use a mid-powered router - the Bosch GMF1400CE for the Leigh. The T5 does all the light jobs - chanfers, inlays etc.

Ike
 
Sounds like you need a Festool router, wizer - with the ratcheting mechanism, and all that...! :shock: :wink:

I can't comment on the Trend or Triton models but I've had similar experiences with my Makita 3612CX and a DW625 I've used in work. Yes, it's worse if you over-tighten it... :roll: I find it easier to hold the router down and hit the spanner with the palm of my hand - if you push down, when it suddenly, you'll probably squash your fingers! :? :)
 
If you're used to a big powerfull router the T5 is a little weedy, but other than that it is an excellent piece of kit and you can buy every single bit of it as a spare for when you knock it off the bench and crack the casing... I'm looking for a T11 next, maybe next year...

Aidan
 
wizer":2lwdf551 said:
If the smaller Triton is a bit easier then I might go for that.
The MOF001 is the tool for the Leigh - that is specifically why I bought it and it's fine on the jig.

The collet is a completely different kettle of fish, due to the finer thread (as previously explained).

If you want to borrow mine for a while to help you decide, pop down and get it. :)

Ray.
 
OPJ said:
Sounds like you need a Festool router, wizer - with the ratcheting mechanism, and all that...! :shock: :wink:

I can't comment on the Trend or Triton models but I've had similar experiences with my Makita 3612CX and a DW625 I've used in work. Yes, it's worse if you over-tighten it... :roll: I find it easier to hold the router down and hit the spanner with the palm of my hand - if you push down, when it suddenly, you'll probably squash your fingers! :? :)[/quote]

Thats why you should do a 'mental risk assessment'before each job/manouvre. In other words, think what may happen by your actions.
 
Ray I came to that decision last night. After Ike's comments about the T5 being under powered I went off looking at power ratings. The T5 is 860w and the Triton is 1400w, so it's a no brainer really.

Thanks everyone for you're help. Now I just need to sneak it past the missus :-k :whistle:
 
If you want a barely used one (twice, for a total of about 10 mins), make me an offer, Wizer!

I don't get on with it for handheld use and bought some black and green stuff, so the only possible use for it is on the Woodrat, and that's just too many turning actions in too many directions.
 
I wouldnt recommend the Trend T5 its absolute rubbish in my eyes and I think a few others on here agree. I had one and had it repaired a few times then they swapped it for a new one and that fell apart too so I got that one repaired and just sold it as I was fed up with it.

Also I never mis-use or put any strain on any of my tools so its a joke that the T5s just broke so easy.

The build quality is probably equal to one of those cheapie diy routers but not for diy money.

I have gone back to my old faithful Elu 96E :D
 
Cheers everyone. I have decided to take Mike's advice and stop buying tools on a weekly basis! I can manage with the big Triton for a couple of months.

I have 5 family birthdays in October and my MOT is due in Nov, then xmas. :roll: :wink:
 
screwfix sent me a T5 out today. Straight to work with it and as p111don says there are niggly things with the router. The worst one that I have so far is the dust extraction hood. Yes it's quite fragile, but why have the bloody outlet coming out towards you. This blocks a fair bit of your field of view. So until I can workout a way to get round it I shall just work without it. Quite light so it's good for free hand work. Some pics to show what I have used it for so far.
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Moulding simulate raise panel for narrow doors and draws for a kitchen build in oak.
 
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