Competition WIP - Corner table

[Paul.V]

Hi all,

Finally got started last night, its a right pain when work gets in the way

My Breif:
design and build a corner table to display some decorative candles.

Materials:
2.5" x 3/4 Pine.


Here goes:

initial design sketch

After cutting to rough length, clamping up the top (right) and legs.

I had to make a circle cutting jig (i'll add pic of it) to create the top, this was the result. i am quite chuffed first attempt !

I wanted to do something to the legs, so they didnt look boring, so i decided to create some cut outs. i used the off cut from making the circle as a template for cutting an arc in the bottom and outside edge of each leg.

After cutting legs to same length on cross cut saw, then cutting the arcs out on the bandsaw and the cutout bit on the inside of each leg, glued the pairs together.

Thats as far as i have got so far.

Advice: how to attach the top ?

The legs will slot together and for a + sign when looking down. So, glue top to the top of the legs ? will this be strong enough? add some dowel pegs ?

comments/advice welcome.

 

[OPJ]

Nice design, Paul.

If your top is going to be solid wood then I certainly wouldn't glue it in place! :shock: You will need to allow for expansion and contraction of the timber across it's width...

To be perfectly honest, I'm not sure what to suggest here...

If you were to add glue anywhere, it would have to be down the centreline of the wood's grain only. But then, there would be nothing to pull the outer sides down tight...

Any other ideas, anyone :?: :-k

 

[Paul.V]

Nice design, Paul.

If your top is going to be solid wood then I certainly wouldn't glue it in place! :shock: You will need to allow for expansion and contraction of the timber across it's width...

To be perfectly honest, I'm not sure what to suggest here...

If you were to add glue anywhere, it would have to be down the centreline of the wood's grain only. But then, there would be nothing to pull the outer sides down tight...

Any other ideas, anyone :?: :-k

Ah, i never thought of that.

if i only glue down centerline of the grain, would i run the risk of the two unglued sides cupping ?

 

[Paul Chapman]

Any other ideas, anyone :?: :-k

You could use a variation of a stretcher plate. Four straight pieces of metal screwed to the top of the legs, but sunk so that they are flush. If you drill oversize holes or slots in these plates, the top can be screwed on while being able to expand and contract.

Hope that's clear :?

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[Paul.V]

Any other ideas, anyone :?: :-k

You could use a variation of a stretcher plate. Four straight pieces of metal screwed to the top of the legs, but sunk so that they are flush. If you drill oversize holes or slots in these plates, the top can be screwed on while being able to expand and contract.

Hope that's clear :?

Thats a good idea, if i get small ones, they should be hardly noticable.

thanks.

 

[oddsocks]

Paul, not sure if I can describe this well enough but you could try the keyhole screw technique that used to be used before biscuits to lock and align boards together.

In the underside of the top use a T slot cutter to form what looks like a keyhole (do this twice, one for each leg section). In the leg that is not being glued to the top centre line, fit two screws so that when the top is positioned on these screws and pushed so that the screws are in the T section (rather than the round entry hole) the top is centered on the legs. Trial and error to set the screw at the appropriate height. This will give a totally invisible fixing and allow the top to move but hopefully not cup. If you get the top so that the tendency is to cup up at the edge not centre you may not need any glue at all.

example cutters

http://www.wealdentool.com/acatalog/T_Slot_65.html

 

[Paul.V]

Paul, not sure if I can describe this well enough but you could try the keyhole screw technique that used to be used before biscuits to lock and align boards together.

In the underside of the top use a T slot cutter to form what looks like a keyhole (do this twice, one for each leg section). In the leg that is not being glued to the top centre line, fit two screws so that when the top is positioned on these screws and pushed so that the screws are in the T section (rather than the round entry hole) the top is centered on the legs. Trial and error to set the screw at the appropriate height. This will give a totally invisible fixing and allow the top to move but hopefully not cup. If you get the top so that the tendency is to cup up at the edge not centre you may not need any glue at all.

example cutters

http://www.wealdentool.com/acatalog/T_Slot_65.html

Thanks, I was looking at this last night, however, the prices of the ones i found were £40+. Just ordered 2 of them for £20, free delivery too.

 

[Paul.V]

decided to use the t-slot cutter to put holes/slots in underside of top and put screws into tops of legs.

disaster ! its curled up at the ends

the legs didnt fare well either :-(

i put it together any way, it does pull it a bit straighter, but its still bowed. theres no glue holding it together either, just the top sliding onto the legs. i tried tightening the screws, but i think theres too much tension and was afraid the screws would pull right through the bottom of the top.

i'll get some more wood this week, and try again

 

[OPJ]

That's a real shame about the top, Paul.

Are you sure the legs have bowed (ie. have you checked them with a straight edge?), as large or long curves on pieces can often create an illusion where the it doesn't look straight but, in reality, it is...! :shock:

 

[Paul.V]

That's a real shame about the top, Paul.

yup, i think it may have been a combination of the hot weather and rain. as it was in the garage and it does get hot in there, and with the rain it would have been very humid.

Are you sure the legs have bowed (ie. have you checked them with a straight edge?), as large or long curves on pieces can often create an illusion where the it doesn't look straight but, in reality, it is...! :shock:

That might explain why it looks square once the legs are slotted together, i'll take it apart and check

Well the next one should be better, as i shouldnt make the same mistakes again

 

[oddsocks]

Shame about that Paul - it may be worth bringing it all indoors for a few days to see if it stabilises 'flat'. Some years ago I mad a wardrobe in ash and had the top perfectly flat but then left it in the garage when we went on holiday. I came back to find it so bowed that it would have planed to zero and still not be flat. I took it into the house and within a few days it was flat again.

Dave

PS re the keyholes it would be worth making a jig for the router to be constrained in (if you have a set of guide inserts).

 

[Paul.V]

Shame about that Paul - it may be worth bringing it all indoors for a few days to see if it stabilises 'flat'. Some years ago I mad a wardrobe in ash and had the top perfectly flat but then left it in the garage when we went on holiday. I came back to find it so bowed that it would have planed to zero and still not be flat. I took it into the house and within a few days it was flat again.

i hope so, i have it indoors now, currently using as a laptop table

PS re the keyholes it would be worth making a jig for the router to be constrained in (if you have a set of guide inserts).

For the next one i will, my free hand was a bit too free i think

 

[Paul.V]

Just remembered i forgot to add the cirlce jig

made from 4 or 5 mm plywood. i took to bottom of the router,
drew round it and marked the screw holes. measured length for center screw from work piece. then cut it out on the bandsaw.

router is a ryobi (this one)