Competition entry WIP - making the most of what you have

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Paul Chapman

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As Rob and Mike have been steaming ahead with WIP pictures of their entries, I thought I'd better pull my finger out and post of few of my pictures.

My entry is going to be a round table in oak. I don't have any machinery, so most of my work will be done with hand tools, with the use of a couple of hand-held power tools when it's better to use them.

This is how far I've got

e7b09022.jpg


That pile of oak started off as a few rough sawn boards (no pictures I'm afraid) and I've been experimenting with ways of reducing it to size with hand tools in the most efficient way. I started off ripping the boards in half along their length as I want to alternate the boards and joint them. For this I used my old Elu hand-held circular saw

e7b08ef3.jpg


I don't have any pictures of this process (it was done before the competition was announced) but I clamped the wood to the bench using Veritas bench dogs and rigged up a board to guide the saw's large MDF sub-base. Because of the thickness of the boards I cut them through from both sides.

Planing rough sawn oak is quite hard work :shock: :shock: so I've been experimenting with various planes and setting them up to plane sawn hard wood effectively. Planes set up for finishing work are simply no good for dealing with rough, sawn wood. I now use these three planes for initial preparation work

e7b08ff1.jpg


They are my old Records #7 and #5 1/2 and my "Frampton Special" which I bought from Alf. They all have a fairly steep camber ground on the blades like this

e7b08fcf.jpg


So they are working like scrub/jack planes. The mouths of the Records have been opened up a bit so they easily pass thick shavings. The blades are the original Record thin blades with the original cap irons and the blade on the "Frampton Special" (which does not have a cap iron) is quite thin. Despite this they work well (scrub-type planes normally have thick blades) and have been dealing with reducing the oak to a presentable state quite effectively.

To get a steep bevel on the blades, I ground them on my old Elu grinder. This is a high-speed grinder which I hate using on blades as it can easily burn them (must get a Tormek when I can afford it). I rigged up a piece of MDF to swivel on the blade grinding holder, and clamped the blades to that

e7b08fa0.jpg


This is my set-up for honing. For steep cambers I've recently started using the Veritas Mk 2 guide with cambered roller. Once you get used to it, I find it very fast and it produces a very good result.

e7b08f7a.jpg


I then polish the blades on a leather strop with jewellers rouge and Vaseline

e7b08f5b.jpg


You can see your face in the blades when I've finished with them :D

On the Records I set the cap irons a fair way back from the edge as you don't really need a cap iron for scrub type work

e7b08f36.jpg


Still a long way to go - I'll post more pictures as I go.

Cheers :wink:

Paul
 
Ah, WIP concentrating on the tools - I like :D Makes me wonder just how important a thick blade really is in roughing planes; suggests "not very much at all really" doesn't it?

Incidentally, Paul, your stone set-up is altogether too organised and I hate you. :lol:

Cheers, Alf
 
Alf":3n4qb0bx said:
Incidentally, Paul, your stone set-up is altogether too organised and I hate you. :lol:

I wiped all the crud off for the photo :D

Do you like the Clifton green make-over on the Frampton Special? :wink:

Cheers :wink:

Paul
 
Looking forward to more pics. You have another set of planes for finishing use I guess? A diamond stone user I see. I'm getting very bored with the waterstone mess (as is the Fairy Princess) and thinking about a reinvestment.

Cheers Mike
 
Brilliant Paul, wish I had the time to keep my tools so beautifully.

Don't know if my son(the engineer) was winding me up but he was reading this post over my shoulder.
He suggests, Tripoli paste and a buffing wheel, then remove hydrocarbons with ultrasonic cleaner filled with BIOX liquid, finally check with UV light for imperfections.
If he was please tell me so I can slap him next time he's home :)

Dom
 
Paul Chapman":2qf9nhi7 said:
Do you like the Clifton green make-over on the Frampton Special? :wink:
I'm terribly hurt you didn't like the flaking ersatz Record blue. [-( :lol: Looks dead posh - rosewood handles next? :D

Cheers, Alf
 
mr":1bve62zo said:
You have another set of planes for finishing use I guess? A diamond stone user I see. I'm getting very bored with the waterstone mess (as is the Fairy Princess) and thinking about a reinvestment.

Yes, I have Cliftons #3, #4 1/2, #6 and #7 :D They are cracking planes and knock spots off the Records, particularly on hard and difficult woods. However, now that I'm using lots of sawn hard woods, I've needed to experiment with scrub-type planes for the initial preparation. Somewhat to my surprise, I've found that planes that don't work particularly well as finishing planes can be made to work very well as scrub-type planes. I think it's all to do with the fact that in scrub work you are taking fairly deep cuts but only using the central portion of the blade. Anyway, it works for me :D

On the stones, I've never tried water stones because I really don't think I could be bothered with all the flattening business and the mess. And I hate anything that uses water because of potential rust problems. I use the DMT stones with WD40 or 3-in-1 oil and the strop and the results are great. But I must get a fine one without the holes because they do tend to catch on very narrow blades (like the beading blades in the Multiplane).

Cheers :wink:

Paul
 
DomValente":1v9xsi4f said:
Don't know if my son(the engineer) was winding me up but he was reading this post over my shoulder.
He suggests, Tripoli paste and a buffing wheel, then remove hydrocarbons with ultrasonic cleaner filled with BIOX liquid, finally check with UV light for imperfections.
If he was please tell me so I can slap him next time he's home :)

:? :? I'm afraid that's way over my head :lol: Slap him anyway for trying to complicate matters :lol:

Cheers :wink:

Paul
 
Paul - nice start, don't envy you prepping all that oak by hand, still take some consolation in the fact that Sidney Barnsley at the beginning of the 20century prepared all his oak in a similar way....no power tools of any sort (not that there was much around then) :D

Mike - glad to see someone else becoming disenchanted with waterstones :( , take a tip from me and Paul and try the DMT stones and a strop with Vaseline and Jeweler's Rouge, you will be quite amazed at the edge you can get and the bonus is that there's no mess worth speaking of and the stones don't have to be continually flattened. I use a Fine grade as a middle stone without holes for narrow stuff as Paul has said, other wise narrow blades can get easily caught in the holes - Rob
 
Hi Paul,

An interesting post especially seeing all the planes and the process. It makes me think I'm soft... I bought a thicknesser because I was getting bored with planning Pitch pine.

Thanks, David
 
Paul

Preparing all by hand, I am impressed. I agree with Alf its good to see the tool preparation taking a lead in the project.

Good work so far, keep us informed of progress please.
 
Paul ref the use of WD 40 on the diamond stones I tried this and liked it, BUT instructions say no petroleum products to be used. My previous cheaper stones delaminated from the plastic backing, I suspect because I used WD 40. Anyone else got any views on this issue.
 
newt":2q2dpd8t said:
Paul ref the use of WD 40 on the diamond stones I tried this and liked it, BUT instructions say no petroleum products to be used. My previous cheaper stones delaminated from the plastic backing, I suspect because I used WD 40.

Pete, I've always used WD40 or 3-in-1 oil ever since I bought the stones many years ago and never had any problems. The DMT stones used to be imported by Starkey & Starkey and when I was in correspondence with them I mentioned that I used WD40 rather than water. They agreed that this was a good idea and did not anticipate any problems.

Having said that, it probably depends how the plate is fixed to the plastic backing and it's likely that different makes use difference methods, so I dare say that it's possible to get delamination with some diamond stones.

Cheers :wink:

Paul
 
Pete, fwiw I've been using paraffin on my DMTs for donkey's now; no ill-effects that I can see. Of course there's no knowing if they've changed something in the manufacturing since then so I wouldn't like to place money on it still being okay... 8-[

Cheers, Alf
 
From DMT's website FAQ section:

I know it says to use the sharpener dry or with water, but can I use oil anyway? Can I store my DMT stone in kerosene?

While we recommend you use DMT® products dry or with water only, it is acceptable to use a variety of lubricants when sharpening with DMT® products. Mineral oil, mineral spirits, kerosene, WD40 can all be used without harming your DMT® sharpener. We do not recommend storing your DMT sharpener in kerosene. DMT® recommends that you always wipe your Diamond and Unbreakable Ceramic Sahrpeners clean and store dry after use.
 
I seemed to remember the instructions saying water or a few drops of oil, but after seeing this thread, had to check the website myself to make sure I hadn't fallen into destructive ways... I use some anonymous thin mineral oil myself, to avoid the rust issue for both stones and tools.

It may not hold true for all brands, of course...
 
dom, thought about the buffing wheel, would think it was too soft and might not give a decent FLAT finish across the back.( my engineers hat on)

although i have not yet gotten round tuit, i am leaning toward the mdf circle attached to my old bd grinder, the one with a spare end, and then using veritas green rouge. not too high speed, so should be ok, to clean up the backs(bevels fronts????) that i have so far been able to get on the tormek.

so be careful with the brick room
:lol:
paul :wink:
 
engineer one":326w7ha2 said:
dom, thought about the buffing wheel, would think it was too soft and might not give a decent FLAT finish across the back.( my engineers hat on)

although i have not yet gotten round tuit, i am leaning toward the mdf circle attached to my old bd grinder, the one with a spare end, and then using veritas green rouge. not too high speed, so should be ok, to clean up the backs(bevels fronts????) that i have so far been able to get on the tormek.

so be careful with the brick room
:lol:
paul :wink:


No, No, No, I was just quoting what my son said, don't try and draw me onto the evil Slope . :)

Dom
 

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