CNC'd MFT top, Parf guide or Trend jig?

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If I bought one MFT replacement top, and then using a flush trim bit cut a line of holes in a blank piece of MDF at the other end of the table, how accurate do you think it would b


How accurate was this and how well to the holes compare to the CNC one?

Potentially I could buy one MFT top from a CNC company, and then use this to add holes elsewhere on the bench with a flush trim bit in the router?
As others have said provided your bearing it accurate then it should match perfectly. As you are copying from the Festool tremplate. My Festool dogs and clamps are a nice tight fit in both my top and the MFT. But I do agree with a previous reply that I use my Festool Tracy saw and join two tracks to give me 2800mm straight edge that I can cut an 8x4 sheet up very swiftly and accurately. I wanted to stick with the MFT as I wanted to guarantee my dogs and clamps fit perfectly. If you go the CNC route you dont know their set up.
 
But only in you follow the instructions particularly starting out at the middle of the table and working to the ends to avoid cumulative error possible if you start at the end.

Bearing guided 45° cutter in a small hand held router works perfectly.
 
I mentioned on another thread that I'd bought the Parf Guide MK2. I cannot stress how simple it is to use, and how accurate it is. I am a total beginner to this dark art, and have to say, if anyone could have made a mess with it, then I am that bloke. The system is simple, and extremely effective, and the only downside, is if you don't think you'll get value for money. Otherwise, I cannot recommend it more highly.
 
Yes it is simple to use and you just need to keep your wits about you otherwise it is possible to be accurate in the wrong place. I am now about to put in my matchfit dovetail grooves between the 20mm holes and then I will have the dogs for location and micro jig clamps to hold things down.
 
Yes it is simple to use and you just need to keep your wits about you otherwise it is possible to be accurate in the wrong place. I am now about to put in my matchfit dovetail grooves between the 20mm holes and then I will have the dogs for location and micro jig clamps to hold things down.

I had a crack at that myself on a temporary top I'd dogholed previously. With the straight cutter to dig out the centre first pass, it was a fairly simple process - especially as you can use the dog holes to line up an appropriate and repeatable straight edge. Have to say I do like the clamps with the "2 force" action bases - can't remember the names. They work a treat.
ETA : Photo taken after I’d only done the verticals.
87C6A26F-A4D7-433B-8C3D-DB0411469B43.jpeg
 
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I'm happy with my Parf M2 purchase on the whole, though I agree it's rather expensive for what it is.

My two complaints or warnings with it are:

1) The instructions are overly complex. You could sum the process up in a single page yet it's made quite complex looking. Take your time and mark out with pencil. You don't need a full grid of holes and if you're using a tracksaw doing so is actually a mistake as some of those will end up getting cut through. To be fair the instructions do warn you about this.

2) The depth stop for the forstner bit is awful. I dunno what the screw is made of but on my third use it became worn so the alan key wouldn't work. I ended up having to bash it off the drill bit and chuck it away. It's bizzare as I have some cheapo ones off Amazon with are much better and given the price and look of it, you'd expect more.

That being said, it's made me an MFT. I'll chuck it away shortly (only had it a few months and it's getting trashed) and rebuild a bigger - more future proof one. The key thing here for me was this. MFT's are consumable. Trash them, then cut them down for jigs/scrap. By your fourth iteration you've broke even. I also intend to use it on my traditional bench build - but just for a two rows.
 
The more I watch the videos of the Parf Mk2 the more I think I'm just going to use it. It seems to be eejit-proof even for me.

One Q I have is how does he put all the chamfers in?

They sell an optional hand tool for this, but it's not worth it if you have a router and chamfer bit. Just use this instead. The tool doesn't come with the kit.
 
Hi Brads

Yes I think just having holes is really missing out on what those matchfit clamps and accessories can deliver, I had struggled to see the full purpose of the worktops with holes until I saw a video showing one with Micro jig clamps and now it has all become much clearer, especially when you have the front apron on the bench as well like The holes with steel pegs are great for alignment and keeping things square but as for using with a tracksaw that can easily be done with an accessory on the rail, ie Hybrid MF Rail Square | Fits All Major Plunge Saw Rails | karpenter.co.uk although there are cheaper options.
 
Hi Brads

Yes I think just having holes is really missing out on what those matchfit clamps and accessories can deliver, I had struggled to see the full purpose of the worktops with holes until I saw a video showing one with Micro jig clamps and now it has all become much clearer, especially when you have the front apron on the bench as well like The holes with steel pegs are great for alignment and keeping things square but as for using with a tracksaw that can easily be done with an accessory on the rail, ie Hybrid MF Rail Square | Fits All Major Plunge Saw Rails | karpenter.co.uk although there are cheaper options.


Bang on for me with that. I'd made an approximation of the Stanton bench as a rough first try with the Parf MKII. The top is supported underneath by M8 legs with anti slip pads attached and connected to the table using the Parf Anchor Dogs from Axminster - they work a treat btw. When I then made the apron, I raised the bench by another "sheet depth" using two runners underneath (front and rear), again, with dog holes along their length to allow me to keep using the ones above on the main top. Problem was, that due to the depth of the combined runners and top, I could no longer use a festool angle bracket in the front or rear rows - so the match fit stuff came to the fore. I've also found the use of the small jig pieces that came with the match fit kit a massively easier way of having "stops" anywhere on the bench too. Together the dog holes and dovetail matchfit grooves are a fantastic combination.

My only worry was that the top would flex with the grooves, but the runners underneath have helped with that enormously - no flex at all. Now all I have to do is make a proper top - but the practice one went well. I now have a 1755x900 piece of valcromat that will fit perfectly on my existing benchtop with feet as above. A Christmas project I hope.
 
Bang on for me with that. I'd made an approximation of the Stanton bench as a rough first try with the Parf MKII. The top is supported underneath by M8 legs with anti slip pads attached and connected to the table using the Parf Anchor Dogs from Axminster - they work a treat btw. When I then made the apron, I raised the bench by another "sheet depth" using two runners underneath (front and rear), again, with dog holes along their length to allow me to keep using the ones above on the main top. Problem was, that due to the depth of the combined runners and top, I could no longer use a festool angle bracket in the front or rear rows - so the match fit stuff came to the fore. I've also found the use of the small jig pieces that came with the match fit kit a massively easier way of having "stops" anywhere on the bench too. Together the dog holes and dovetail matchfit grooves are a fantastic combination.

My only worry was that the top would flex with the grooves, but the runners underneath have helped with that enormously - no flex at all. Now all I have to do is make a proper top - but the practice one went well. I now have a 1755x900 piece of valcromat that will fit perfectly on my existing benchtop with feet as above. A Christmas project I hope.

could I ask roughly what the valcromat cost you?
 
could I ask roughly what the valcromat cost you?

Sure. I bought a sheet with two cuts (3 pieces supplied, along with a few cut sheets of birch ply) from a place called Atlantic Timber. I am pretty sure it's not the cheapest place to buy from, but their service is fantastic, and the way they pack deliveries for shipping ensures no edge damage. Cost me £114+VAT for a 19mm sheet.
 
Sure. I bought a sheet with two cuts (3 pieces supplied, along with a few cut sheets of birch ply) from a place called Atlantic Timber. I am pretty sure it's not the cheapest place to buy from, but their service is fantastic, and the way they pack deliveries for shipping ensures no edge damage. Cost me £114+VAT for a 19mm sheet.

How much was the shipping?
 
Hi Brads

Yes I think just having holes is really missing out on what those matchfit clamps and accessories can deliver, I had struggled to see the full purpose of the worktops with holes until I saw a video showing one with Micro jig clamps and now it has all become much clearer, especially when you have the front apron on the bench...

Yup I've just put two horizontal grooves across the front apron on mine for matchfit, they should work well with the MFT holes.
 
I think you misunderstand my point about the Parf guide II instructions.

As I answered a post before yours specifically about chamfering the holes and not about laying out or starting in the middle or elsewhere I don't think I did.
 
As I answered a post before yours specifically about chamfering the holes and not about laying out or starting in the middle or elsewhere I don't think I did.
It may have helped (me at least) if you quoted the post you were replying to rather than a post you are not answering or referring to. But I don’t mind too much.😉
 
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