Cladding for new shed build

[Jackswan]

Just thinking of the best way to clad a new shed. First time building a shed and need it to store some pushbikes and tools, couple of high level windows will be fitted for security.

Shed is going to be a pent roof with a size of 3.6m x 2.4m. Frame already built for floor and mounted on block piers.

Originally thinking of cladding with featheredge boards which would have come to roughly £140. But hoping that the shed will last a good few years, so wondering if 19mm x 125mm shiplap treated boarding would be a better option? At a rough estimate at £1.42 a metre this will come to about £290, quite an increase in price.
Lengths of shiplap at the local timber merchant are 3.9m, 4.2m and 5.4m, not quite fitting in with the size of the shed and waste needs to be kept to a minimum. What would be the best way to fit and the best lengths to buy regarding the size of the shed? Use a 5.4m length and the remaining 1.8m is then used on the next row up, so that all horizontal joints are staggared?
Uprights on the wall frames will be at every 600mm.
Plenty more questions to come and will probably put some photos as build progresses.


Cheers

 

[Lons]

Built my last one quite a few years ago using shiplap and definitely the better option if you can afford it IMO.

Don't just accept the merchant price though, go along with your order quantity and negotiate as all the merchants can supply and they will compete on price as it's a reasonable order. They should be able to deliver free as well.

Bob

 

[Jackswan]

Cheers Bob and thanks for the suggestion of haggling a price.

Was thinking of using Onduline sheets on the roof, but after doing a search on theis forum, they are not highly thought off. Seems that EPDM is a better way to go. How easy is this to fit and how long does it last?

 

[graduate_owner]

You could consider box profile steel sheet, but keep in mind condensation. Might need lining wifh osb or similar. That would be a permanent, secure and maintenance free solution for both roof and sides, but robably more expensive than featherboard etc.

K

 

[Roughcut]

Cheers Bob and thanks for the suggestion of haggling a price.

Was thinking of using Onduline sheets on the roof, but after doing a search on theis forum, they are not highly thought off. Seems that EPDM is a better way to go. How easy is this to fit and how long does it last?

Nothing wrong with Onduline!

 

[Harbo]

EPDM is very easy and straight forward to lay - lots of YouTube videos available.
Prefers new wood base I used 18mm OSB and applied the glues with cheapo paint rollers.
Guaranteed for 25yrs but should last much longer.

Rod

 

[JonnyW]

Have you considered cedar or larch cladding? I know it can be eye wateringly expensive, but you will never have to paint the damn thing.

I will be building a garden shed/potting shed next year, and will be using cedar or larch for future maintenance reasons - and that I hate painting!

Jonny

 

[pollys13]

I think they build horse field shelters with shiplap, built to last very durable, Siberian Larch? If can find anyone who carries it.

 

[pollys13]

Slow growing softwoods from northern climes perhaps?

 

[JonnyW]

Cedar and Siberian Larch becoming very popular here in the wet cold climate of Shetland. Especially larch. Very very durable wood that can handle very wet climates.

Zero maintenance. Now that has to be a good thing.

Jonny

 

[Steve Maskery]

Where in the country are you Jack? I have some treated shiplap left over from my workshop build and some cemtiles too. I'd be prepared to let them go as a bargain. There is probably not enough to do the whole job but you wouldn't need to buy much more.

I'm in NG17, if you are interested.

 

[Jackswan]

Where in the country are you Jack? I have some treated shiplap left over from my workshop build and some cemtiles too. I'd be prepared to let them go as a bargain. There is probably not enough to do the whole job but you wouldn't need to buy much more.

I'm in NG17, if you are interested.

In South Wales, bit far away, but thanks for the offer

 

[Jackswan]

My estimate for shiplap cladding was slightly out, would have been more like £330-£340 and a lot of waste with the sizes. Timber merchants around locally would not budge on prices, some were way more expensive, so have gone back to my original idea of a grade A feather edge board

 

[Jackswan]

Start of build, right out of sight towards bottom of garden. House was broken into 18 months ago and the burglar broke into the existing shed and used a spade to prise my french doors open, so this one has to be more secure.



Holes dug out in ground, filled with gravel and concrete blocks on top

 

[Jackswan]

DPM on ground under base

 

[Jackswan]

Side frames made and floor down

 

[Jackswan]

Still thinking of the best way to do the roof.
Gone from onduline sheets to EPDM and now doing some research on box profile sheets.

There are OSB boards going down on top of the roof timbers, what would be the best way to fit box profile sheets if I went down that route?

 

[Lons]

Hi Jack
I would be concerned that there is no diagonal bracing in your frames which as a retired builder, I consider to be essential unless the external cladding is rigid solid sheet material. There is nothing to keep the frames square (i.e. if you pushed the top of one side frame it will push front and back out of square and could potentially collapse as a worst scenario. Same if front or back were pushed. Shiplap cladding is too thin to give that strength.

Others might disagree but for the sake of a few lengths of timber, why risk it?

cheers
Bob

 

[Phil Pascoe]

^^^^ +1

 

[Jackswan]

Hi Jack
I would be concerned that there is no diagonal bracing in your frames which as a retired builder, I consider to be essential unless the external cladding is rigid solid sheet material. There is nothing to keep the frames square (i.e. if you pushed the top of one side frame it will push front and back out of square and could potentially collapse as a worst scenario. Same if front or back were pushed. Shiplap cladding is too thin to give that strength.

Others might disagree but for the sake of a few lengths of timber, why risk it?

cheers
Bob

That's a fair point. Where would be the best place to put in diagonal bracing?