Christmas Came Early
- Thread starter Osvaldd
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Trevanion
Greatest Of All Time
Nice bits of kit there! How much did you pay for them in the end? I know you've been after a no 071 for a while now but the massive eBay cost of them put you off. When I bought my 071, I paid £25 for one that had never been used, still in the original box with the 3 cutters and fence. That was only 4 or 5 years ago or so! Prices really have shot up in the last year or so.
I know I go on about it a bit but prices this good are semi-regular on Gumtree.AndyT":ys4k6iqx said:Presumably there won't be any more from the same place at the same price, so can you give us a clue as to how you got so lucky?
Case in point, just a short while ago there was a Stanley 13-050, very clean and with full set of cutters in original sleeve for £35. And that's not even the best deal I've recorded in the past 12 months.
Very well spotted, I sold my 071 when they started fetching silly money.
Chap on another forum was so saying this was for the perfect tool for tendons. Has some internet guru been demonstrating this ? It never even occurred to me to do it that way.
Might explain the elevated price and why shoulder planes are so cheap
Seriously you can get a Norris shoulder for the price of an ebay 071
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NORRIS-No-18 ... 7675.l2557
Not mine but I did buy a lovely marked slater shoulder with ebony infills recently for £50
Chap on another forum was so saying this was for the perfect tool for tendons. Has some internet guru been demonstrating this ? It never even occurred to me to do it that way.
Might explain the elevated price and why shoulder planes are so cheap
Seriously you can get a Norris shoulder for the price of an ebay 071
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NORRIS-No-18 ... 7675.l2557
Not mine but I did buy a lovely marked slater shoulder with ebony infills recently for £50
Mr_Pea":1nkigqai said:
Paul Sellers. Lots of followers on YouTube including many in the US who enjoy the current exchange rate and eBay global shipping.
No bother to those of us who worked out the usefulness of a router for ourselves, or read Robert Wearing, and bought one years ago when they were an ordinary tool. Bit of a problem for anyone starting out though.
Just a local friendly exchange. As ED65 pointed out, there are deals out there but they are becoming few and far between. I paid £25 for a Record no 7 last year. I could never justify £100 for a router though.
Been to a local carboot this morning. More and more I notice even older sellers are starting to quote eBay prices, telling me they saw this or that thing go on ebay for x-amount. Kills the fun of bargain hunting.
Been to a local carboot this morning. More and more I notice even older sellers are starting to quote eBay prices, telling me they saw this or that thing go on ebay for x-amount. Kills the fun of bargain hunting.
@Mr_Pea
The Paul Sellers’ Mortise & Tenon Method
https://youtu.be/r-08PY3stgo
p.s. what does a shoulder plane do that a no 78 couldn't?
The Paul Sellers’ Mortise & Tenon Method
https://youtu.be/r-08PY3stgo
p.s. what does a shoulder plane do that a no 78 couldn't?
SammyQ
Established Member
You Sir, are an official Jammy Barsteward! Nice one!!
I have a Record 073, a No10, a 778 and a router slightly more patinated (rusty) than yours...so...here's some experience:
My Record 074 is a tonne weight. That makes the trimming of tenon shoulders really easy, as once started, the momentum and gravitas of the thing tend to hold it steady through the cut and even knots get trimmed snoothly (but you NEED a sharp blade). Helps a lot that they are bevel up and shallow angle. The sides on mine are mercifully square to the sole and I find running the side on a properly cut tennon face ensures a right angle to the shoulder face.
Your 78 cannot trim tenon shoulders in this fashion, and, even though it excels in cutting rebates to depth, it is debatable if one could hold it properly across the small breadth of a tenon to achieve an even tenon. It is also across the grain and your router cutter will be more efficient here.
The router you have can be easily adapted to cut tenon faces, see reference to Bob Wearing's 'router foot' arrangement, long used in the past before power in workshops became common. The 'foot' can be attached via the fence holes in the sole.
Staying with the fence, I personally found it got me out of a cople of snags, particularly with a rounded table-top edge, just had to mind the grain direction VERY carefully.
The depth guage IS useful, but as someone said, the router just stops cutting at the set depth.
My 778 and your 78 can cut rebates WITH the grain, even up to within a few mm of the end of a stopped rebate. My No10 cannot, as the sole is far too long in front of the blade.
HTH, Sam.
Nice one!! I have a Record 073, a No10, a 778 and a router slightly more patinated (rusty) than yours...so...here's some experience:
My Record 074 is a tonne weight. That makes the trimming of tenon shoulders really easy, as once started, the momentum and gravitas of the thing tend to hold it steady through the cut and even knots get trimmed snoothly (but you NEED a sharp blade). Helps a lot that they are bevel up and shallow angle. The sides on mine are mercifully square to the sole and I find running the side on a properly cut tennon face ensures a right angle to the shoulder face.
Your 78 cannot trim tenon shoulders in this fashion, and, even though it excels in cutting rebates to depth, it is debatable if one could hold it properly across the small breadth of a tenon to achieve an even tenon. It is also across the grain and your router cutter will be more efficient here.
The router you have can be easily adapted to cut tenon faces, see reference to Bob Wearing's 'router foot' arrangement, long used in the past before power in workshops became common. The 'foot' can be attached via the fence holes in the sole.
Staying with the fence, I personally found it got me out of a cople of snags, particularly with a rounded table-top edge, just had to mind the grain direction VERY carefully.
The depth guage IS useful, but as someone said, the router just stops cutting at the set depth.
My 778 and your 78 can cut rebates WITH the grain, even up to within a few mm of the end of a stopped rebate. My No10 cannot, as the sole is far too long in front of the blade.
HTH, Sam.
SammyQ
Established Member
Sure, but I am back on Norn Iron presently, reference book is in Northumberland...can you havepatience until Monday evening please? I'll scan and send you a copy.
Sam
Sam
Phil Pascoe
Established Member
A granny's tooth's a very useful tool, but I wouldn't want one used on my tendons.
Osvaldd":1l6n82re said:
You don't put it together like that!
The long shiny bit goes in the front if the router, held by a thumbscrew. It serves two purposes. Mostly you'll want it level with the base, to close up the open mouth of the router.
Out of the tool, it can be used to measure the depth of a housing, by adjusting how much stem pokes down below the foot. For a very narrow housing, turn the stem round and use the narrow end.
Osvaldd":1nmiuc3d said:
It's an extra wooden base with an adjustable bit at right angles.
A much quicker and simpler approach, if you want to use a router to level off a tenon, is to use an offcut of the same thickness as the workpiece and arrange things on a flat surface so the router bridges across the two pieces of wood.
