Chopping boards

[ChrisWiduWood]

Ok a bit of copy and paste and here goes....


Red oak is more porous than white oak. Red oak is what is known as an open grain wood. It absorbs moisture easily, so it is especially important to not allow water to pool on it for any extended periods. Red oak will stain black if water gets below the surface.

Alternately, white oak is a closed-grain wood and is almost completely impervious to water. This is due to its pores being filled with a natural membranous growth called tyloses. White oak may be a better choice if the area is exposed to water or high moisture with any regularity. Source-red-oak-vs-white-oak

The pores found in the growth rings on red oak are very open and porous, and should be easily identifiable. White oak, however, has its pores plugged with tyloses, which help make white oak suitable for water-tight vessels, and give it increased resistance to rot and decay. Source -The wood database distinguishing-red-oak-from-white-oak

A high quality chopping board should last a good number of years, and even the older wooden boards that were tested performed exceptionally well after prolonged usage with sharp cutting implements. This is because the fibres are seemingly able to heal themselves – provided the chopping board itself is made from a quality wood source using traditional manufacturing techniques as opposed to the cheaper, mass-produced cutting boards that tend to be imported from overseas.
As to which type of wood the research favours, pine and oak seem to be the most effective in terms of stopping bacteria from breeding and killing off the germs. However, many other types of wood such as maple can be just as effective.
If you would like to know more about the tests that were carried out at the University of Wisconsin by Dean O. Cliver and his team you can read the full report here: Server no longer found. Source myth-fact-antibacterial-properties-wood

I also googled poisoned by oak chopping board in various different iterations and came up with nothing...

Now that thats clear...

Here are just some of the chopping boards iv'e made for friends and family, all I'm glad to say are still fit and healthy... and yes there's oak in some

 

[Homeless Squirrel]

Play with the Thickness arrows and you can go to any thickness you like. I quit at 40"/1M because who would ever make a cutting board any where near that.

Pete

I mean thickness of board or depth depending on how some class/term it? mind
plus ive seen boards where can slide knives inside board.

 

[Homeless Squirrel]

Ok a bit of copy and paste and here goes....


Red oak is more porous than white oak. Red oak is what is known as an open grain wood. It absorbs moisture easily, so it is especially important to not allow water to pool on it for any extended periods. Red oak will stain black if water gets below the surface.

Alternately, white oak is a closed-grain wood and is almost completely impervious to water. This is due to its pores being filled with a natural membranous growth called tyloses. White oak may be a better choice if the area is exposed to water or high moisture with any regularity. Source-red-oak-vs-white-oak

The pores found in the growth rings on red oak are very open and porous, and should be easily identifiable. White oak, however, has its pores plugged with tyloses, which help make white oak suitable for water-tight vessels, and give it increased resistance to rot and decay. Source -The wood database distinguishing-red-oak-from-white-oak

A high quality chopping board should last a good number of years, and even the older wooden boards that were tested performed exceptionally well after prolonged usage with sharp cutting implements. This is because the fibres are seemingly able to heal themselves – provided the chopping board itself is made from a quality wood source using traditional manufacturing techniques as opposed to the cheaper, mass-produced cutting boards that tend to be imported from overseas.
As to which type of wood the research favours, pine and oak seem to be the most effective in terms of stopping bacteria from breeding and killing off the germs. However, many other types of wood such as maple can be just as effective.
If you would like to know more about the tests that were carried out at the University of Wisconsin by Dean O. Cliver and his team you can read the full report here: Server no longer found. Source myth-fact-antibacterial-properties-wood

I also googled poisoned by oak chopping board in various different iterations and came up with nothing...

Now that thats clear...

Here are just some of the chopping boards iv'e made for friends and family, all I'm glad to say are still fit and healthy... and yes there's oak in some

Do you know why Pine is the most antibacterial?.......................................The resin is what they make pine disinfectant from and it's one of the most wettest trees re sap.
Another one is It is also very toxic to Cats why you should never use pine disinfectant around pets/Animals. amazing what us daft idiots can come up with! lol

 

[Inspector]

I mean thickness of board or depth depending on how some class/term it? mind
plus ive seen boards where can slide knives inside board.

If you make a change in the row or column boxes the size changes under the preview heading. Length and width or near/far and side to side if you prefer. It doesn't seem to let you pick a size and work backwards to the dimensions of the little pieces that make up the board so there are some limitations to it.

Pete

 

[jcassidy]

My only contribution is from the US National Institute of Health (yes, the Anthony Fauci one)

Cutting Boards of Plastic and Wood Contaminated Experimentally with Bacteria

"the bacteria generally could not be recovered after entering the wood"

"These results do not support the often-heard assertion that Plastic cutting boards are more sanitary than wood"

 

[dennisk]

I have torn up miles of oak flooring and I usually keep the good stuff if it is fairly clean and not too full of nails , or staples these days
Thickness plane the front and back ifff and glue them together with titebond 2, in my case, and then thickness plane that.
Don’t both even cutting tongue and groove off.
Cut to shape,
I made up a melamine sink , fill that with mineral oil and soak them fir a few hours.
Hand wash, no dishwasher, and re oil when needed.
Easy peasy.

 

[thetyreman]

I made this out of beech a few years ago now, use it every day, chopping boards don't have to be end grain.

 

[Noel]

I’ve deleted a few recent posts. Please keep content and opinions respectful.
No need for sarcasm or personal insults.

 

[Homeless Squirrel]

I made this out of beech a few years ago now, use it every day, chopping boards don't have to be end grain.

Nice i did have some 4x4 oak 'lumps' guy that manages local mens shed said no no no so 'stole it for turning'
Originally was going to use the maple flooring boards that was in friends sisters house before place was rebuilt but that vanished!
So ended up with 4x4 and two long planks of two widths/thicknesses which i cut to equal lengths of each plank 500 and 550 if memories right?
And was thinking along lines you have done your board in.
One board is meant to be going back to house as for them as something from old one! and said having handle would be good so i thought about grafting in a piece of this other wood on each end then shaping it to blend in and cut slots maybe to hold by unless ends are raised from the worktop sufficiently to hold/pick up by?.
Oddly do have a piece of a beech worktop that ive repurposed? it had been left outside a place that had been 'refurb'd'? and damp has made it warp and split a bit last time looked at it as one said was sealed other not. so might cut down joins and do something else with it?
Mind leave it a few years maybe make a barrel out of it!
But to me it's more fun/enjoyable repurposing things than just using new gear.

 

[Homeless Squirrel]

I have torn up miles of oak flooring and I usually keep the good stuff if it is fairly clean and not too full of nails , or staples these days
Thickness plane the front and back ifff and glue them together with titebond 2, in my case, and then thickness plane that.
Don’t both even cutting tongue and groove off.
Cut to shape,
I made up a melamine sink , fill that with mineral oil and soak them fir a few hours.
Hand wash, no dishwasher, and re oil when needed.
Easy peasy.

Have a few packs of oak Parkeet flooring (made of fingers in squares with hessian like backing made into approx 1m x 500) plus few black bags of off cuts as got given a enough to do front room 16x12 with spare from a place we put 110 square m's down but sold some as friend i did job with had another to do so left with rest to create something?
Did think about chopping load into lengths and gluing staggered end grain?

I was thinking of dousing in Tung Oil.

 

[baldkev]

I’ve deleted a few recent posts. Please keep content and opinions respectful.
No need for sarcasm or personal insults.

i missed that, can you repost them?

 

[Noel]

i missed that, can you repost them?

No problem Kev, check your PMs.

 

[Agent_zed]

Well I guess just because everyone is doing it doesn't make it right (e.g. asbestos back in the day) but there are a huge number of oak chopping boards for sale if you do a search including well known companies like Lakeland Oak Chopping Board Robert Welch Oak Wood Chopping Board, 30cm Large Oak Chopping Board | M&S Collection | M&S etc etc

A lot of houses also have the solid oak worktops which I'm sure have the odd sandwich or two put on them. Probably better for you than the teflon off a non-stick pan?!

The thing I'd be nervous of is using old boards as I wouldn't know what has been put on them over the years. woodworm killer etc isn't going to be a nice thing to have on your cutting board. It's likely you'll remove it all by planing but you never know and a coating of oil will allow chemicals to move more as they are likely oil soluable. I'd probably look to make something that doesn't directly touch the food unless you know for sure.

 

[TheTiddles]

This comes up a lot, so does that study. If you notice they don’t wash the boards, which although I’m no microbiologist, I really do recommend. I put my plastic boards in the dishwasher, I don’t do that with wooden boards. So maybe use the wood ones for looking nice and the plastic ones for getting dirty, shoving in the dishwasher and using again being pretty certain they’re very clean.

 

[TheTiddles]

Have a few packs of oak Parkeet flooring (made of fingers in squares with hessian like backing made into approx 1m x 500) plus few black bags of off cuts as got given a enough to do front room 16x12 with spare from a place we put 110 square m's down but sold some as friend i did job with had another to do so left with rest to create something?
Did think about chopping load into lengths and gluing staggered end grain?

I was thinking of dousing in Tung Oil.

If you’re selling these and someone has a nut allergy… I’d use mineral oil, doesn’t shine as much but saves that worry.

 

[thetyreman]

If you’re selling these and someone has a nut allergy… I’d use mineral oil, doesn’t shine as much but saves that worry.

has there actually been a single case of anyone dying or having a serious reaction to pure tung oi? I can't find anything.

 

[sams93]

has there actually been a single case of anyone dying or having a serious reaction to pure tung oi? I can't find anything.

https://www2.canadianwoodworking.com/get-more/tung-oil-debunking-myths

 

[fleyh]

I made this out of beech a few years ago now, use it every day, chopping boards don't have to be end grain.

Hello @thetyreman,
Your board looks great and appears to be in a very good condition so you clearly know how to look after it.

Do you mind sharing your cleaning and maintenance schedule/procedure?

Everyone makes it sound very simple, but, for whatever reason, I am having to re-sand (and sometimes re-cut/re-glue) and then re-oil our boards every few months due to black spots.
Our boards are not being subjected to excess moisture, always get hand washed and then properly dried, but black spots still appear few months after last deep maintenance.

 

[thetyreman]

Hello @thetyreman,
Your board looks great and appears to be in a very good condition so you clearly know how to look after it.

Do you mind sharing your cleaning and maintenance schedule/procedure?

Everyone makes it sound very simple, but, for whatever reason, I am having to re-sand (and sometimes re-cut/re-glue) and then re-oil our boards every few months due to black spots.
Our boards are not being subjected to excess moisture, always get hand washed and then properly dried, but black spots still appear few months after last deep maintenance.

thanks, I've never resanded it, there's not much to maintenance I wash it with hot water with no detergent in it at all, must be hot not warm and re-oil every 3-6 months with chestnut foodsafe oil which is just mineral oil, which keeps it from drying out, I try not to go too mad with the water and always dry it with kitchen towels/paper, I've not really had any issues with stains or black spots to be honest so can't help with that.

 

[TheTiddles]

has there actually been a single case of anyone dying or having a serious reaction to pure tung oi? I can't find anything.

If I’m taking the liability of something being safe (which I would be if I sold it)… I’m one for playing it safe