Chisels (asked umpteen times before so apologies)

[scooby]

As title, this has been asked a million times before, but I'm in need of some chisels.

A little background info first.

At the moment, my selection of chisels is pitiful. Consisting of:

3/8" blue handle Stanley. Old and acquired for free. Does the job.

3/4" Marples. Yellow/red handle. Had this from when I started my apprenticship in '94. Only about 2 1/2" long now, so needs replacing.

24mm 2 Cherries. Awesome, enough said.

1" Stanley Dynagrip. Yellow/black handle. Average at best. Ideally I'd like to replace.

So really, at least, I need a 1/4", 1/2", 3/4", 1 1/4" (and I'd like a decent 1") chisels.

I like the look of the orange Bahco bevel edged chisels. I've searched and found people asking about them but didn't find a conclusive answer to how good they are. The search results were quite old so I was wondering if anyone had recently acquired or had more experience with these chisels as to answer my question?

It's either the Bahcos or 2 Cherries. The one 2 Cherries I have has been geat so far (polished type) but I've never used a Bahco chisel ever. The type of work I do is site joiney (ie. claw hammer meets chisel) but the 2 Cherries wooden handle is still doing well.

Thanks

 

[engineer one]

scooby, not sure about the long term capability, but i have bahco
chisels the orange ones. they sharpen well, but so far have not used them too much in anger, so cannot say how long they will last.

at this time i still use the nooitgedagt that i bought they really did seem to work. i would go for the non polished two cherries if you can afford them.

paul :wink:

 

[scooby]

scooby, not sure about the long term capability, but i have bahco
chisels the orange ones. they sharpen well, but so far have not used them too much in anger, so cannot say how long they will last.

at this time i still use the nooitgedagt that i bought they really did seem to work. i would go for the non polished two cherries if you can afford them.

paul :wink:

Thanks Paul,

Earlier this year I ordered a few items from Dieter Scmid. Hock high carbon plane iron, cap iron, 220 grit waterstone. So thought I'd get a 2 Cherries to try out (as I'd never used before). I did order the unpolished type as I'd read here about the polished type not being flat.

There must have been an error in delivery as I ended up with the polished type. No complaints though, as its easily outshone my other chisels with regards to sharpening and keeping an edge. Think its been about 4 months now and the handle is just starting to show signs of hammer abuse (hardly any though) and hopefully the ferule will keep this in check.

I must admit the main thing that is drawing me to the Bahcos is:

a) Bahco/Sadvik is/was renowned for making high quality tools and..
b) I like the look of the holster type edge protectors. I've tried to keep the usual cap type supplied with my chisels but keep losing them.

 

[engineer one]

yes but where do you put five holsters :lol: :twisted:

it's a great temptation to be diverted by the accessories, even on hand tools. :twisted: :lol:

i would look at a chisel roll, not leather, and or make a holder for site work.

can't say i consider plastic a good long term idea for bashing with metal hammers. :? mind you the shape of the handles seems quite good,
not sure about long term usage though.

go on you know you want to buy both :^o

paul :wink:

 

[scooby]

Yeah, I definately agree with the holsters being a bit cumbersome to store. I definately need a chisel roll. The last one I had was a bit naff, and the un capped chisel edges cut through it a treat

I'm surprised about your comment about plastic handles being less durable than wooden ones, but also I find it a good thing. The main reason I asked about the Bahcos was because I wasn't sure how the 2 Cherries would fair with long term claw hammering. I'm hoping the ferrule will eventually do the japanese chisel thing and let the timber fibres fold over it in time instead of just splitting.

If that would be the case, I'd go for 2 Cherries/ Kirschen without a second thought.

 

[Anonymous]

can't say i consider plastic a good long term idea for bashing with metal hammers.

I wasn't sure how the 2 Cherries would fair with long term claw hammering.

Why would anyone ever use a metal hammer with a wood chisel? A cheap beech mallet will cost you a few quid, give a much better performance, far more control, and not damage your chisels.

And I thought I was a butcher!

Cheers
Brad

 

[scooby]

can't say i consider plastic a good long term idea for bashing with metal hammers.

I wasn't sure how the 2 Cherries would fair with long term claw hammering.

Why would anyone ever use a metal hammer with a wood chisel? A cheap beech mallet will cost you a few quid, give a much better performance, far more control, and not damage your chisels.

And I thought I was a butcher!

Cheers
Brad

What can I say, I'm an animal

I don't know 1 joiner who carries a mallet round with them. I really don't like mallets, the last time I used one was at college 13 years ago. I'm used to using a hammer and using a mallet wouldn't feel right. I can say I'd probably have less control with a mallet than a hammer.

 

[engineer one]

scooby, my only concern is that my old plastic handled chisels would not have stood up to the bashing of my estwing. have not really tried the bahco's in the mode, but do think that wood with a metal ring is more likely to stand the test, not least since they have been around for a few more years :lol:

paul :wink:

 

[Alf]

Given that Japanese chisels are designed to be hit with a hammer and they use hoops on wooden handles, and given that you like the Two Cherries, I think I'd go with them. Plus, if you're not bothered about the polished ones the boxed set is on offer at Axminster at the mo' and might solve the storage problem too?

Cheers, Alf

 

[scooby]

scooby, my only concern is that my old plastic handled chisels would not have stood up to the bashing of my estwing. have not really tried the bahco's in the mode, but do think that wood with a metal ring is more likely to stand the test, not least since they have been around for a few more years :lol:

paul :wink:

I think you've made a good point. The Marples 373 handles have stood up to 13 years of hammering but I have split 2 Footprint red handles. So will probably go for some more 2 Cherries as I found the steel to be excellent and even if the handles do split at any point, they are relatively cheap to replace fron Dieter Schmid.

I just need a decent chisel roll, as I've lost all the protector caps for my chisels. something that will not allow the chisels to cut through it. Finding replacements would also be good but they are a pig to find.

Any recommendations in chisel rolls?

Thanks for the advice so far.

 

[Scrit]

Here's a different thought. If you are taking them out on site and you're going to smack' em with a hammer, why not "invest" in a set of Lidl's own brand - only 4 sizes, but under a tenner and surprisingly they do hold an edge. I bought a set after Jason B had mentioned them (elsewhere?) and they've become part of my standard portable kit. Although I don't hit them with a hammer :wink:

Scrit

 

[Windmill Man]

Hi Scooby,

You have just met one, a joiner that uses a mallet on site, used one for the last 30 years. Makes me wince when I see other chippys bashing chisels with a claw hammer, my old forman joiner would have a duck fit if he saw it. I`m not saying its wrong but just what you are used to. I dont understand why fellow chippys use the side of the hammer, odd practice. Mind you I dont know any other chippys that use a mallet on site and I am looked upon as being a bit odd! :wink:

I have a full set of marples yellow and red handles some on the short side and some replaced, in my original connell leather tool roll ,they have served me well.

I am off to Canada shortly and thinking of getting a set of Lee Valley Japanese bevel edge chisels. Any comments?

New here 1st forum and 1st post, if I have made a mess of this reply , please be kind :?

 

[Scrit]

Hi WindmillMan and welcome to the forum

No, you're not odd at all. I carry a marples mallet in my travelling kit as well. Even kitchens, bedrooms and built-in furniture require judicious adjustment from time to time and I regard the cordless jigsaw as a bit too crude for fine work! :wink:

Scrit

 

[Evergreen]

Hi Windmill Man

Welcome to the forum. Good first post.

It used to be said that the side of a hammer head was softer than the striking face and so could be used on a wooden chisel handle. Still don't think it's a good idea as a regular practice, though.

If I did it now, I bet the ghost of my old woodworking teacher from nearly 50 years ago would materialise and smack me round the back of the head!

Regards.

 

[scooby]

I think people tend to use the side of the hammer because on a lot of hammers the side has more surface area than the hammer face (a good example is the old fibreglass handled Plumb hammers) so the impact isn't as concentrated, also reduces the chance of glancing blows that tend to do the most damage to chisel handles in regards to chipping.

I've always used Estwings in various forms and on all of them the side usually is pretty small so I just use the hammer head face. The type of work I do rarely involves heavy chopping so I'm quite happy to use a hammer.

I don't see the point of getting really cheap chisels for site use. I tend to prefer to get the best I can afford and use them anywhere.

I ordered some last night, went for a few Kirschens. Ordered from Axminster, so they are the polished type with the octagonal handles.

I'm not knocking (no pun intended) the use of mallets. I'd use one. but I find them a bit 'clunky' and big. I really hate the traditional square type, I don't knol why but I do. I do like the look of the ones that resemble croquet mallets but still a bit big.

 

[scooby]

Hi Windmill Man

If I did it now, I bet the ghost of my old woodworking teacher from nearly 50 years ago would materialise and smack me round the back of the head!

Regards.

hehehe. I still remember when I was at college and the odd person would get royally repremanded for clubbing a mortice chisel with a warrington hammer.

 

[Alf]

Welcome to the forum, Windmill Man

It used to be said that the side of a hammer head was softer than the striking face and so could be used on a wooden chisel handle.

I always figured it was because using a hammer head sideways doesn't give you the same swing, so you naturally tend not to get such a heavy hit. But then I'm a confirmed mallet user and rarely have cause to pick up a hammer at all.

Cheers, Alf

 

[scooby]

can't say i consider plastic a good long term idea for bashing with metal hammers.

I wasn't sure how the 2 Cherries would fair with long term claw hammering.

Why would anyone ever use a metal hammer with a wood chisel? A cheap beech mallet will cost you a few quid, give a much better performance, far more control, and not damage your chisels.

And I thought I was a butcher!

Cheers
Brad

The japanese don't seem to mind using hammers on wooden handle chisels.

 

[Alf]

The japanese don't seem to mind using hammers on wooden handle chisels.

True, but then they also eat raw fish when everyone knows it should be deep fried in batter and served on a bed of similarly fried pieces of potato with a piquant clear "sauce" made from fermented alcohol...

e.g. It's all about custom and tradition

Cheers, Alf

 

[scooby]

The japanese don't seem to mind using hammers on wooden handle chisels.

True, but then they also eat raw fish when everyone knows it should be deep fried in batter and served on a bed of similarly fried pieces of potato with a piquant clear "sauce" made from fermented alcohol...

e.g. It's all about custom and tradition

Cheers, Alf

Well said.

Its pretty obvious my methods are frowned upon. Does this mean I'm a confirmed 'butcher' as Brad implied?

Ah well, I'll have to live with the notoriety of admitting my chisel abuse. Maybe I should have kept quiet hehe.