chisel sharpening: grinding, wetstone or other?

[ptturner]

Having sharpened my vintage carving and joiners chisels by hand or tormek I was shocked to learn (some) turners use a grinding stone such as used for hss drill bits. I had always thought that old steels or modern quality brands dont tolerate heat from the dry stone, ie it spoils the hardening in the chisels....

Opinions

 

[JohnPW]

HSS can't be overheated.

For carbon steel, the advice is to grind for a few seconds then dip in water, then grind with some water still on the blade. Also with your thumb on the blade you can feel if it gets hot. I think it needs to get over 200 degrees to soften the steel.

I prefer not to use dry high speed grinders because of metal and abrasive particles flying everywhere. It's also annoying to have to keep dipping in water.

 

[Lons]

For turning tools it's best to use a wide wheel slow speed grinder than narrow high speed if possible but many of us use a Sorby pro-edge or similar machine, there are as many opinions on sharpening as there are days in the year so you've possibly started one of "those" threads What I'm saying is my own personal opinion based on my own experience. I own a variety of diamond plates, oil stones, a high speed grinder, a Tormek T7 and the pro-edge, each have their place in my workshop whether for bench tools, carving chisels and turning tools but are also used for other tasks, shaping metal, cold chisels etc. oh and I also use a largish belt/disk sander.

For my turning tools I use nothing but the pro-edge, when turning you need regular, quick touch up depending on the material you're cutting, a burr on the tool isn't a problem and for a scraper can be of benefit so it takes just seconds for a repeatable angle and sharp edge the only time you would overheat is if doing a profile re grind when you'd need to cool the tool.. A grinder can be just as good but I prefer the flat grind of the pro-edge note you can also get that by adapting a handheld belt grinder or abrasive disk if you have an outboard facility on your lathe, too much faff if you haven't

As I said, personal opinion to accept or reject so now just like when grinding chisels, stand back and watch the sparks fly on here.

 

[Jacob]

My currently most favoured option is the 12" ali disc which came with my lathe; wide, runs dead flat, quiet, stable - no vibrations, runs cool - surprisingly cool even when used hard. Velcro pad means rapid change of grit. Also brilliant for sanding woodwork - has a tilting table.
My least favoured option is the 6" bench grinder which is hopeless for sharpening unless you are desperate and should be reserved for other metal work.
Experimenting with freehand grinding on coarse oil stone: can be done if you can give it lots of wellie. Even thick old plane blade from an old woody can be done if you bolt it to a length of 2x1/2 as a handle and use both hands and as much force/speed as you can muster.