Chamfer router bit

[Mjward]

Up to now I've only used a roundover bit to soften edges and that's been fine for bedroom furniture which gets touched etc.

But I'm now in the market for a chamfer bit as think it gives a slightly more formal finish (for bookcases).

However, I would appreciate some guidance on dimensionally what size would be appropriate. Will mostly be used on c40mm wide face frame/edge banding.

I was thinking the smallest one but have no experience here

TIA

 

[Doug71]

I would be tempted by T916B with either the 1/4" or 1/2" shank just based on the fact you can do a small chamfer with a large cutter but you can't do a large chamfer with a small cutter should the need arise.

 

[Mjward]

I would be tempted by T916B with either the 1/4" or 1/2" shank just based on the fact you can do a small chamfer with a large cutter but you can't do a large chamfer with a small cutter should the need arise.

I like your logic Doug. Most likely will go the 1/4 route so I can use with the palm router once face frame is up and running but I've also got a 1/4 (and 1/2) collett on the table router should need arise.

I'm also toying with the idea of a **** bead which I guess introduces formality to a roundover. The kitchen units have a **** bead so would possibly tie in the joinery.

Actually think I've talked myself into buying both

 

[johnnyb]

I use a freud large chamfer it's also skewed and quarter. But it's to big for trimmers.

 

[Sideways]

I have one or two that came out of these sets of assorted cutters that I generally don't recommend. They are both 1/4 shank and 20 or 25mm long on the diagonal cutting edge. They work great even though most chamfers I ever cut are only a mm or two wide.

 

[SammyQ]

I find a selection of different sized bearings of more use when chamfering, rather than the actual chamfer dimensions or shaft size. They allow you to use different parts of the carbide and even out wear.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

If you buy from Wealden it's useful sometimes to add different bearings/spacers to an order to get it up to the min. for free P&P.

 

[ChaiLatte]

Another option on rectilinear stuff with a palm router is to use the tilting base and a straight bit.

In conjunction with a guide rail and some edge stops, you can have alternate angles to the standard 45 degrees.

 

[SammyQ]

Wedges under the baseplate (d.s. tape) works well too.

 

[Mjward]

Ah missed these latest posts, will have to add more bearings to my next order. Went for the edge bead AND chamfer bits as both will be of future use and gives me a chance to have a play around to see which finish I prefer on this particular project