Chainsaw Instruction

[Giff]

If you buy a Sthil ( other makes are available ) you have to have it handed over by a reputable dealer ( no ebay / online ). In my experience the dealers selling these are very knowledgable and will give you a run through which does cover all the basics. There are some no no's which they outline and then common sense and careful practice will increase confidence and ability. If you can find a friendly tree surgeon as well they may be helpful.Also for cutting logs down the V stand with a pivot to clamp the saw helps a lot with safety. Geoff

 

[Robert]

It's a very useful tool and one of the easiest tools to hurt yourself and others with. The lump of unpredicable and probably rotten wood is another way to get hospitalised.
Get some formal training, you will then be able to ask stupid questions and have clear up to date advise.
Our local Agric College offers courses for domestic users of half or one day, including how it should be sharpened. Profesional courses vary but can be done in one to two day sessions as you build up skill and knowledge.
I know this sounds like a nag but rather that than anyone getting injured.

Robert

 

[brianhabby]

I might be a useful tool but it scares the hell out of me and I'll be sticking with my bow saw...

I recently saw a video on youtube (i'm sure there must be many) of how NOT to do it

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y3_VVl7WaUk

I think training of some sort is to be advised and safety gear essential

regards

Brian

 

[dickm]

I am sorry, but to suggest drop starting a saw is just dangerous, especially on a public forum where the experience of the readers is unknown. You were taught that way in collage for a good reason. It is not good for the operator and it is not good for the saw!

You are correct the only safe way to start a cold saw is by putting it on the ground placing your (normally)right foot on the back handle, your left hand on the top handle and pulling the start cord with your right hand.

Yes, the suggestion of drop starting had me sweating too. In effect, drop starting means you are potentially swinging a running saw on the end of a piece of cord, with no control over where it goes. DON'T DO IT.

 

[acewoodturner]

The main difficulty arises if someone is using one of the smaller saws and is wearing a large size of boots or safety wellingtons. They cannot get the forward part of their footwear into the bottom part of the handle to keep it still on the ground. The additional danger is if there is a large amount of compression in the saw to be overcome in order to start it by giving it a really good pull on the starter cord and the saw then jumps. I only have size 8 boots and can slip my boots in the space no problem whereas my logging mate has size 12 and wears Husqvarna safety wellies. He only has the tip of these on the saw and therefore little real control over the saw. The only other approved method of starting the saw in these circumstances is to hold the saw handle in your left hand with the back of the saw between the top of your legs and pull the starter cord with you right hand. This is a safe method and I start all my small saws using this method. However I couldnt start my stihl 066 using this method as it is just too big and heavy.
Drop starting a saw is not a safe practice and is definetly not to be recommended for beginners.

 

[Richard T]

Dickm wrote: In effect, drop starting means you are potentially swinging a running saw on the end of a piece of cord, with no control over where it goes. DON'T DO IT.

No it doesn't. You are holding it by the top handle not dangling it on the cord yo yo style. I really don't like to contradict but this is getting silly.

The top handle is a fulcrum when the saw is not on the ground meaning that the guide bar will dip down rather than spring up. The weight of the saw is used to counter any snatch back.
When not used to starting a chainsaw it is a good idea to start it with the chainbreak on. Though viewed by some as not being good practice, when starting out it is a fail safe. There will be no danger from a moving chain either way but if started on the ground there is just as much danger of wrist damage.

It might be less dangerous to start a saw smaller than 50cc from the ground - less power to snatch back and easier to actually keep on the ground as there is less resistance but just try starting an 076 or modern equivalent this way and you'll never play the violin again.

As I have said, in long experience I have found the drop start to be the far more controllable and safe way. Admittedly I have had lots of practice using (even very big) saws in trees where the ground is unobligingly absent but in general, no matter what the hse might say I stand by my lessons learnt.

 

[dickm]

OK. Richard, I bow to your superior knowledge and experience (I've only used chainsaws for 25 years) but the way you originally described it could be interpreted as throwing the saw itself away from you. As you say, if you are up in a tree, then this may be the way to start a saw, but my local tree surgeon refuses to do it like that and I respect his skill.
On terrra firma, I would still find a way to hold the saw down with a foot rather than having only one hand holding it. It's the old climber's adage "always keep two points of contact". Especially if you are a beginner.
I'll just leave further comment to the Stihl 048 manual.

 

[Eric The Viking]

It's a decades since I last used a chainsaw. Are the modern ones still as hard to start as the older ones used to be?

 

[Paul Chapman]

It's a decades since I last used a chainsaw. Are the modern ones still as hard to start as the older ones used to be?

Modern chainsaws like Stihl are very easy to start - at least mine is.

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[Richard T]

The choke position of the switch automatically clicks back into the running position when the saw is first revved. They are very easy to start compared to the older generation provided everything else is ok - air filter etc.

 

[paulm]

Yep, very easy to start my husqvarnas, helped by the easy to use chokes and also the decompression valve on the cylinder that allows an easy pull on the starter cord.

By contrast my old cheap B&Q McCulloch I had many years ago got next to no use until I sold it on as I could never get it to start, was a real challenge, I suspect due to being cheap as well as less modern.

Cheers, Paul

 

[Paul Chapman]

By contrast my old cheap B&Q McCulloch I had many years ago got next to no use until I sold it on as I could never get it to start, was a real challenge, I suspect due to being cheap as well as less modern.

Yes, those McCulloch chainsaws are awful - you spend more time trying to start it and sharpening the rubbish chain than actually using it.

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[dickm]

It grieves me to say it, but the Mac 540E that I got from a steam fair as a naked engine for £15 is actually an incredibly easy starter and happily pulls a 15" blade. Embarrassing to be seen using it, though .

 

[Giff]

On chainsaw safety I think blunt blades are a dangerous. I have tried various ways of sharpening and am ok with a touchup with a file but have used these people for grinding and full sharpen. They send them back next day, free post both ways, and they come back like new ( missing a bit of metal of course ). http://www.chainsdirect.co.uk

 

[graduate_owner]

My Husquvarna is quite easy to start, but just doesn't rev as it should - never has. I'm always trying to urge it on but it simply doesn't listen. (Anyone have any ideas?) The only time it does rev properly is just before it runs out of fuel, and if I don't switch off immediately then it is an absolute pig to start after re-fuelling.
I also have a Makita electric chain saw which is very easy to start!! It does however drink chain oil. Someone recently told me that forestry workers now use cooking oil instead of chain oil - more environmentally friendly. I have started using a 50:50 mix of chain oil and cooking oil (out of date)with no apparent problems.

Here's a link http://eartheasy.com/blog/2010/11/using ... insaw-oil/ but there are probably loads of sites with similar info.

K

 

[Giff]

Is the oil / petrol mix ok. perhaps too much oil....and is it running rich too much fuel to air ?

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Is the oil / petrol mix ok. perhaps too much oil....and is it running rich too much fuel to air ?

Maybe once the fuel filter starts to draw a little air as well, it revs more freely? Your air filter isn't choked, is it?

 

[dickm]

My Husquvarna is quite easy to start, but just doesn't rev as it should - never has. I'm always trying to urge it on but it simply doesn't listen. (Anyone have any ideas?) The only time it does rev properly is just before it runs out of fuel, and if I don't switch off immediately then it is an absolute pig to start after re-fuelling.
I also have a Makita electric chain saw which is very easy to start!! It does however drink chain oil. Someone recently told me that forestry workers now use cooking oil instead of chain oil - more environmentally friendly. I have started using a 50:50 mix of chain oil and cooking oil (out of date)with no apparent problems.

According to the books :lol: , it's pretty straightforward to adjust the high speed and low speed needles on Walbro carbs as used on many saws. But from experience, they can be a right b**ger to get right. It sounds as if your high speed needle is too open; when it's fully warm, try screwing in the H needle a tiny amount (not more than 1/8 turn) and see if it revs properly then. But don't turn it in too far, as this can apparently cause the saw to over-rev and kill itself.
Quite a lot of saws have an adjuster for the oil pump; don't know about the Mak electric though.
I'm sure veg, or other biodegradable oil is a good idea, but still haven't got round to it.

 

[Graham Orm]

If it revs as it's running out of fuel it's because it's too rich...too much fuel not enough air. Carburation needs tweaking accordingly.

For poor starting try this.

http://compare.ebay.co.uk/like/400250516661?var=lv&ltyp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes&var=sbar&cbt=y

A quick shot in the air filter works. I had a lawn mower that wouldn't start but fired up first pull with this stuff.

 

[Giff]

WD 40 does the same trick. Geoff