Chainsaw Guidance

[hairy]

I was more meaning a pole saw for delimbing, then personally I would use an axe. As long as you cut so the gap won't close up then as long as the chosen saw is long enough I don't see why not? Silkys are amazing in comparison to anything, although I have only used green wood blades in fresh timber.
I've an even smaller tree that snapped about 8' up in recent winds and I was thinking about cutting it at about waist height and see if I can make use of it as support for a seat or something as yet unthought of.
I have killed a small tree growing in a reed bed system where it defo shouldn't be with copper nails whacked into the cut off stump.

 

[Suffolkboy]

Thanks Hairy, I’ve been looking at the Silky saws online. Are the really capably of cutting through such large timbers?

The Silky saws are incredible.

I have a Natanoko in my van and have cut trees far larger than in the original post. In fact after this last wind I cleared quite a lot of windblow including some very large trees.

 

[conrad]

Thanks Conrad, what bow saw are you using out of interest, looks like it’s made short work of those trees.

Hi Adrian I use Bacho saws with the raker blades for green wood they fly through the job. The 30 inch is ideal for felling you shouls be able to pick one up for about £20.

 

[Bingy man]

You will need to kill the stump or it’s likely the roots will continue to grow and with the actual tree removed the roots will have a field day . If the various chemical weed killers are not for you the you could try Epsom salts or even copper nails . You can of course hire tree stump grinders ( similar to a chainsaw. Either way if left to nature it can take many years to naturally rot down and I’ve seen some pretty nasty and potentially harmful fungi growing around old stumps. Imo best option is a good quality stump killer mixed to the recommended ratio , drill large holes into stump and pour in the stump killer. Most weed killers are only dangerous while wet but once dry are safe around pets but of course read the instructions and follow . Large stumps may req a 2nd treatment.
oh and yes depending on size of the stump and root system it’s hard work to dig out the root ball but not impossible..

 

[Stevekane]

The Florabest Lidl Electric chainsaw is great, it has an Origon bar and is fine for small trees like these. Weve sadly had to cut down several this past year or so and found it quite easy to fell them in quite a small garden after tying a rope around 2/3rds up and getting my wife to keep some tension on it, once I felt it was ready to go it was a quick dash to the rope and pull it down towards you. Not only is the chainsaw easy to use and makes light work of the felling it also allows you to chop off all the branches which is tiring enough without doing it with a bow saw. Then its used to cut the lot into logs, so a lot of work. We also leave around 6 ft to use as a lever if its got to come out. Chain sharpening is fairly easy and makes a tremendous difference to the perforformance, I was useing regular chain files with a guide but now use a cheap “diamond” stone in the dremmel, I do it on the saw and just guess the angle and touch up the top of the little hook in front of the actual tooth if your getting sawdust rather than chips after a few resharpenings.. My chains are cheap ebay ones and seem to last well enough for my occasional use.
years ago I had petrol ones,,a real pita for the occasional user because they never want to start on old fuel and goodness knows what other 2T ailments!
Steve.

 

[alex robinson]

years ago I had petrol ones,,a real pita for the occasional user because they never want to start on old fuel and goodness knows what other 2T ailments!
Steve.

I find aspen great. Fumes much less toxic, and no need to drain tanks after use as it doesn't go stale even if you leave it for months

 

[pe2dave]

Thanks Fergie, wasn’t sure what I’d do with them, their both in small planting area, so if they are cut low to the ground, they be easy to cover with shrub planting and can slowly rot. When I mentioned the stump removal, view has been it could be painful backbreaking work. Heard about boring holes straight down into them which speeds up the decay process, also has been suggested there’s a chemical treatment that can be poured into the holes, but I’m not keen on chemical options.

Equally, with a good root system, they could grow back? This is how pollarding works.

The idea of a small pickaxe is to make it workable (I'm 74, not strong, but have removed the roots of such trees) and not backbreaking?
Does it matter if it takes 6 sessions over a week?

 

[Rich C]

Last stump I hacked up I used a mattock. It is the perfect tool for that sort of thing.

 

[fenhayman]

Always have someone close by when using a chainsaw.

 

[Trainee neophyte]

Stump removal is a bit of a mission: you're going to be digging a really big hole, because you need room to work. A mattock , pickaxe and iron bar are the tools of choice, but my preferred method is to cut the stump as close to the ground as possible (which should help stop it sprouting again), drill some deep holes with a spade bit and pour in amonia fertiliser. ..and wait. It should decompose in a couple of years.

 

[AdrianUK]

Equally, with a good root system, they could grow back? This is how pollarding works.

The idea of a small pickaxe is to make it workable (I'm 74, not strong, but have removed the roots of such trees) and not backbreaking?
Does it matter if it takes 6 sessions over a week?

Thanks pe2dave. Good point.

 

[Fergie 307]

I use an old axe which I keep for dirty jobs . Its heavy and has a broken short shaft. I also have a small pick like your link. As said takes a while but you get rid of the stump without paying a fortune to get someone to grind it out.

I have an old Ferm sabre saw. Long coarse blade makes fairly short work of the roots.

 

[Fergie 307]

Stump removal is a bit of a mission: you're going to be digging a really big hole, because you need room to work. A mattock , pickaxe and iron bar are the tools of choice, but my preferred method is to cut the stump as close to the ground as possible (which should help stop it sprouting again), drill some deep holes with a spade bit and pour in amonia fertiliser. ..and wait. It should decompose in a couple of years.

When we moved into our present home we had a load of conifers down one side of the garden, shading it really badly. About 20 foot high and 6-8 inches in diameter. Cut them all down and then started on the stumps. I had befriended the local farmer who came round with a teleloader to move some earth around for me. He was amused by my efforts at digging out the stumps, I had done two or three, only thirty odd to go. He simply grabbed each one between the jaws of the loader bucket and pulled them out like carrots !

 

[pe2dave]

I have an old Ferm sabre saw. Long coarse blade makes fairly short work of the roots.

Saw (if you can get any length of stroke)
*small* axe (sharper the better)
Old sharp chisel and hammer.

I've used all three on those pesky roots. Bit of a cat and mouse game (almost enjoyable) but it works.
Brains over brawn any time.
Real fun starts when you get that first ground movement with a 4' lever! Then you can chase those roots you've missed.
Oh the satisfaction of seeing fresh soil where that unwanted tree was.
.... Now to start cleaning up :-(

 

[hairy]

Does it matter if it takes 6 sessions over a week?

Depends how much you are going to quote for the job

 

[MikeJhn]

For those of us that are not on the professional circuit, the Oregon Power sharp chain system is the way to go, fit the unit push the unit against a tree stump and run the saw for about five seconds, the chain is now sharp again.

 

[artie]

Do you have to buy a new chain and bar as well as the sharpener?

 

[Tris]

Yes, neighbour bought one last year and reckons it's very good. Removes metal pretty quickly from what I can see so only needs a couple of seconds on the stone.
Teeth are totally different from a normal chain.
Couple of people on arbtalk have them for ground level work and farm hedge trees as they are less hassle when you hit a stone or nail

 

[MikeJhn]

The power sharp chain has its cutting edge on the top of the chain so totally different to a conventional chain, and yes you have to buy a new bar, chain and sharpener, the bar will last as long as a conventional bar so a one off purchase for most of us, when the chain wears out then the stone is worn out as well, chain and stone available separately can't recommend it highly enough, had mine for over ten years and would never go back to conventional hour long sharpening.

Beware of clones, which by all accounts fall to bits and are dangerous, note in the link short stone and the neck in the sharpening attachment: UK 2x Oregon Power Sharp Chain Sharpening System Saw Chain and Sharpener Stone | eBay

 

[Stigmorgan]

The power sharp chain has its cutting edge on the top of the chain so totally different to a conventional chain, and yes you have to buy a new bar, chain and sharpener, the bar will last as long as a conventional bar so a one off purchase for most of us, when the chain wears out then the stone is worn out as well, chain and stone available separately can't recommend it highly enough, had mine for over ten years and would never go back to conventional hour long sharpening.

Beware of clones, which by all accounts fall to bits and are dangerous, note in the link short stone and the neck in the sharpening attachment: UK 2x Oregon Power Sharp Chain Sharpening System Saw Chain and Sharpener Stone | eBay

Judging by the price I guess you mean this is one to avoid? This system looks perfect for me, would you have a suggestion for where to buy from?