Celtic Box

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Planer finally arrived so that I could sort out wood to finish this box. The black is an epoxy resin filler.

celtic-box.jpg


This was just a quick "in betweener" before moving onto my next Intarsia, a Heilan Coo...

Phill
 

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Claymore":3tzglv88 said:
Superb Phill! I have done the filling with resin trick in the past and it works great! another thing you can try is mixing dye into light coloured wood filler (use bright colours) and then fill in areas like your knotwork and leave to set then sand over the whole thing and it looks stunning waxed and cheap way of creating a different effect...... use the cheapest neutral filler you can find in Wilco's etc.
Sounds interesting, I'll give it a bash. No Wilco's anywhere near here though, but I'm sure I'll find something similar.
Can't wait to see the Highland Coo its going to be a beauty, my to do pattern is the full body etc and think it would suit a nice warm Oak colour and plenty of silky wax finish.
This reminds me you mentioned using wax before and I meant to ask then. How do you go on polishing/buffing it on an Intarsia? How do you deal with the nooks and crannies?
Ps wait until you see my Barn Owl...... it should look ok and hopefully have something finished next week as I'm struggling at the moment (hands) so slow process but getting there.
Sorry to hear about your hands, looking forward to seeing the Owl though.

Phill
 
Another great piece Phil. Thanks for showing.
@ Brian Thanks again for your never ending source of information. Sorry the hands are playing up.

take care
Don W
 
Buffalo Chas":kodjpxhk said:
Hi Phil.

Do you mind if I ask what type of epoxy resin you used on the box lid and can it be mixed to any colour?

Charley

I just used bog standard resin from the motor factors (it's what I had lying around) and used acrylic paint to tint it.

I suppose I have to come clean though and say that it looks better in the photo than in real life.

I filled the holes proud of the surface and then sanded it back flush but there must have been lots if tiny bubbles throughout the epoxy because the surface is pitted and no amount of sanding or polishing will remove it. Now, that may not be the fault of the resin, it may be down to my mixing. Maybe someone here can advise.

Regards

Phill
 
I just used bog standard resin from the motor factors (it's what I had lying around) and used acrylic paint to tint it.

Water based paint and epoxy does not mix. That in itself will cause voids in the mixture.
If you want to tint earthy colours oxblood red / brown / near black / mustard yellow then a very safe and stable option is iron oxide red/yellow/black/brown.
They can be mixed to provide a range of colours that will match almost any wood. I mix them into the resin first to make sure the powder is whetted, then add the hardener. This also helps to decrease any heat generation created by adding powder to resin as you can let it sit before adding the hardener.

Pacer Zap is good, but the 5 minute version is very difficult to work with and starts to become stiff before 5 mins.So stick to the 30 min version.

Other options to modify the colours are Titanium dioxide white which is non toxic and also carbon black - but that is not as safe.

You can also use the remaining contents of colour laser toner cartridges to mix any colour you want, but I imagine this may be less stable over time.

The iron oxides are very cheap but if you buy all four colours, it will probably set you back over £20 when you factor in postage etc.

I am happy to send out a full set of colours free if you want, I have a surplus of these powders that I will never get through.

For any bubbles that occur in (once the water base paint is excluded) a gentle waft of a head gun should cause them to rise. Again this cannot be done with the 5 minute version easily.
 
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