Cellulose sanding sealer over shellac?

[Eric The Viking]

I've made an oak filler panel for a kitchen (owner has changed an appliance, leaving a gap). It was a silly idea to do it, but I thought I needed the experience!

I think the original kitchen is finished in a sprayed acrylic, but it might be cellulose. It's turned the AWO a bit yellow/orange/light brown. It may be red oak rather than white - I've matched the grain rather than tried to get the same species. The original finish is fairly tough and has lasted well (20 year old kitchen, but the owner keeps it spotless).

Anyway, to blend in, all I have available is shellac (for french polishing). This is good, because I find I can control the colour and get a pretty reasonable match. I realise I need to protect the shellac a bit, because of cooking humidity, etc. and was wondering about using cellulose sanding sealer.

i'm thinking that, I'll gain a bit of protection and can matte it down to match the original satin finish. It ought to be tough once it's gone off properly and resistant to household cleaners (within reason), and, most importantly, I have a can sitting on the bench!

It's not quite the same chemistry. I've got test pieces so I can try it, but obviously I can't test it for a year or two first!

Has anyone done this, or got good reasons to tell me not to do it?

Thanks,

E.

 

[Woodfinish Man]

I'm afraid Cellulose Sanding Sealer will offer little or no protection and you'd be far better leaving the shellac as it is. CSS contains a sanding agent (something like Lanco Wax) and will scratch very easily. Sorry not to be the bearer of better news.

 

[Eric The Viking]

I'm afraid Cellulose Sanding Sealer will offer little or no protection and you'd be far better leaving the shellac as it is. CSS contains a sanding agent (something like Lanco Wax) and will scratch very easily. Sorry not to be the bearer of better news.

Quite the contrary -- your reply is greatly appreciated. You've saved me making a mess of it.

I've been using Shellac because it lets me darken it in to match what was there originally. It's easier than stain, and anyway I didn't want the effect where it preferentially soaks into the open pores - the original doesn't look like that.

I might have some proper cellulose varnish knocking around, and as I mentioned I've done some test pieces too, so I can experiment without ruining the actual board.

I think the original red oak was 'redder' than my replacement piece (which is marginally red - just a tad pink in sunlight). That's probably the source of my woes - getting a better piece of stock in the first place might have helped more

Anyway, thanks for the reply. I"m most grateful.

E.

PS: I did say the original stuff is AWO. I now think it's ARO actually - the grain is a bit coarser and it's got definite 'pinkness'.

 

[CHJ]

Restricting finishing options to the limited products you have in stock I'm afraid is not going to achieve a hard wearing (moisture resistant?) surface.

If taking on such a commission myself I would go for a combination of spirit stain and Melamine enhanced lacquer.
Either by staining base wood and coating with clear Melamine, or, dependant upon shade required colouring the Melamine Lacquer itself and building the shade with multiple coats.

Given a few days for the Melamine Enhance Lacquer to fully cure should see a surface well able to withstand day to day abrasion.

 

[Eric The Viking]

I was thinking about Melamine laquer, too. Chestnut products sell it in small cans so I might give it a try, and it's cellulose based (solvent: Acetone), so should be reasonably compatible (if I wait long enough for the alcohol to leave the shellac). As I said, I can test it.

The thing about 'French polishing' (just putting on shellac with a rubber really) was that I could bring the colour down to the right shade a little at a time. I haven't got there yet but it is going in the right direction.

Advice warmly appreciated.

E.

 

[Terry Smart]

Our Melamine Lacquer is cellulose based (but it's not acetone) and it won't be compatible with shellac.
The solvent in it will attack the shellac and you'll end up with the mess you were trying to avoid.

As Chas has suggested, a better route would have been stain, sealer then lacquer, hindsight is a wonderful thing.

You might get away with a shellac varnish over the top of the french polish, although I'm not sure this would be any tougher than the french polish.

A Microcrystalline Wax over the top will increase water resistance etc, but I don't think you're going to achieve the toughness you want. Sorry.