Casement windows.

[countrybumpkin]

Hi all,

newbie here.

Am in the process of building a timber framed workshop.

I am looking to make 4 traditional casement windows, each double side hung with centre post.

What i'm trying to find out, is there a set size of timber components to all casement windows? eg, frame stiles thickness, casement stiles thickness, rebate depth and width for glass to sit in, and same for windows to hang in. i assume there is a standard that joiners go by.

I know the glass will be 24mm.

there will be no energy rating, but still would want them same size as they were being fitted in a house.

Sorry for rather long post.

Any info would be much appreciated.

kind regards

Steve

 

[ColeyS1]

Jambs, mullion and head 94x 57 you could do 94 x 69 if you want it a little more chunky. Cill 145x69. Stiles and top rail 57x57 bottom rail 80ish x 57.

I usually put a 13 x 58.5 rebate in the frame to take the sash and the rebate in the sash to take the glass is 40 x 15 if you're gonna have glazing bars I usually make them 40 x57- they can look quite large though in some cases

 

[countrybumpkin]

that was the exact info i was looking for.

Excellent. Thanks.

What angle is normally on the cill?

I want the angle to go to the back of the sash on the cill, so i have that angle on the sash.

They are gonna be 1000mm wide x 800mm high. Not sure about glazing bar, it might just be one, horizontal.

Kind regards

Steve

 

[ColeyS1]

Usually 9 degrees Steve. Although I've also seen dedicated cill blocks 15 degrees. I said 80 ish on the bottom rail depending on the height of the sash really- on a really tall sash having it 100mm probably wouldn't look out of place, certainly help keeping it square

Edit, just popped over to take a pic as I find it easier trying to explain with a picture to relate to

Just thought I'd show how the cill might look. Generally machine another step down to try to stop any water blowing straight under the sash. Also I assumed window head was normal plain old style. If for instance you wanted to have concealed trickle vents you'd need the head a little wider or simply stick on a wooden canopy after.

Coley

 

[countrybumpkin]

Cheers for that.

Il post some pics when things have moved on a bit.

steve

 

[ColeyS1]

Cheers for that.

Il post some pics when things have moved on a bit.

steve

Sounds good ! Can we perhaps see some pics of the workshop aswell Steve

 

[countrybumpkin]

Great pics.

Will post pics as soon as i can.

 

[PAC1]

ColeyS1
Is it a standard cutter to make that head with the drip and vent cover?

 

[ColeyS1]

ColeyS1
Is it a standard cutter to make that head with the drip and vent cover?

Kind of....ish :lol: it's just two cuts with a 6mm groover. One cut to line up with the face of the jambs, then tilt the groover over to form the angle. Most important bit is to do the mortice first. obviously set the chisel so it ends somewhere where the groove will start. I often think its probably easier to glue the canopy on after. But by the time all the extra machining and gluings done this seems easier
Coley

 

[PAC1]

thanks