Can you recommend a decent hole saw kit
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JobandKnock
Amateur curmudgeon
Some of the best hole saws are made by Starrett - you buy the hole saw and then an appropriate mandrel, but they generally don't come as a kit unless you want to spend a lot of dosh. Other reliable brands that I've used include Bosch, Heller, Makita, Milwaukee, Morse and even deWalt. The mandrels are generally transferrable between different makes
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eribaMotters
Established Member
We went through loads of makes in the school workshops where I taught, but Starrett outlasted them all. You must cut the drill speed down though as even these will overheat and burn.
Colin
Colin
The newer bosch saws use a different type of mandrel, I found out the hard way! They call it the "power change" and give them credit they are easy to remove because they do not self tighten.
JobandKnock
Amateur curmudgeon
The last Bosch ones I bought, about a year back, had the SDS device on top, but when it was removed (vice and adjustable spanner) they accepted the two threaded bit with two pins of a Starrett mandrel like all the rest
I have no idea what exactly these are called, but I saw a type of multipurpose holesaw demo'd at a trade show by Super-Rod. Guys who make tools for electricians to pull and thread electrical cables.
They seemed to do a much cleaner job cutting through MDF than the traditional holesaws with many teeth.
They seemed to do a much cleaner job cutting through MDF than the traditional holesaws with many teeth.
JobandKnock
Amateur curmudgeon
It's a TCT holesaw. Most use the same arbor sets as conventional bimetal holesaws. They are a lot more expensive than HSS or bimetal and not all of them are good - I have a set of Faithfull ones and they aren't the best
sometimewoodworker
Established Member
I have a few good metal toothed hole saws, they all have a limited life span, I have a verity of good quality TCT hole saws, I assume they must have a life span as well, I just have not found out what it is.
The TCT hole saws run well at a higher speed than the metal toothed saws as they all have better chip clearance and fewer teeth.
Hole saws in general do not give a great finished hole, so the TCT tipped ones are my preferred tools as I find them easier to use and they never clog up.
I will add pictures a little later. I have Bosch Lenox and Makita
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Terrytpot
Established Member
Finally plumped for this set a while back and been very pleased with it’s performance..Screwfix knock them out
Any normal holesaw will overheat and lose its temper if the sawdust isn't cleared from the teeth. Unlike most other situations, the dust gets trapped having no means of escape, so compresses, therefore clearing regularly is the most effective and cooler procedure. As we use so many sizes we buy average quality sets, or bosch if a regularly used size. Carefully used, most holesaws are fine on wood, but for harder materials, better quality is required.
I found that out after going back and buying the Bosch mandrel, it is quick and easy to change hole saws but the cynic in me thinks it is just a way to make you buy Bosch.
JobandKnock
Amateur curmudgeon
They are faster to change over than conventional arbor-mounted hole saws, to be sure, but just how often are you doing a job where you need to change the diameter of hole saws, and how much time will it actually save? I tried them a few years back and to my mind the biggest downside is that with those SDS thingies installed on your hole saws is that you lose the ability to nest the saws for storage and transportation. As a site guy that outweighs any miniscule speed advantage I may get
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I bought this Bosch set a couple of years ago. They cut well, but a couple of them don't mount on the arbor right (of course, didn't notice until after the return window closed...) – these ones can either thread all the way on to the arbor and not use the torque pins (holes and thread out of alignment), or have them slightly loose on the arbor thread and use the pins. The former makes it almost impossible to the saw off the arbor (as it self tightens as you cut) and the latter leaves a rubbish finish and oversize holes as they wobble slightly. Perhaps I got unlucky, but next time I'll just buy Starrett ones in the sizes I need individually.
Johnwa
Established Member
Before I retired I worked in electrical maintenance in a pretty large factory. For years we used Starrett cutters and never had any complaints apart from price!. One day a rep came in and gave us a Starrett lookalike to try out and give a bashing for him. This was made by a company called Thorsman and was considerably cheaper than Starrett. We used this cutter for a long time and it matched the Starrett in performance and being cheaper became the go to cutter of all sizes for many sparks in this area. Thorsman were subsequently taken over by Schneider electric.Whether this affected their quality I couldn't say.(it usually does),I'd moved over to robotics by this time.
Another question. How do you use your tools, are you a tradesman who needs his tools to not let him down, or are you a home user/ diyer in which case you don't NEED super quality tools at their premium price, just decent quality gear that will probably outlast you for what you will use them. I understand the urge to buy top quality tools, I have done so many times and paid through the nose for the privilege. People can be lured into buying designer labels and items that are in fashion. Just my two pennorth, maybe I'm being a tight a€$e again lol
John
Another question. How do you use your tools, are you a tradesman who needs his tools to not let him down, or are you a home user/ diyer in which case you don't NEED super quality tools at their premium price, just decent quality gear that will probably outlast you for what you will use them. I understand the urge to buy top quality tools, I have done so many times and paid through the nose for the privilege. People can be lured into buying designer labels and items that are in fashion. Just my two pennorth, maybe I'm being a tight a€$e again lol
John
sometimewoodworker
Established Member
my makita set has the location pins and yes when only the pins are in it may wobble BUT when the screw behind the pins is tightened it is solid as a rock. Your set seems to have a knurled ring to tighten down in place of the makita nut. I suggest that you get a makita centre and check if it will fit so you can use a spanner to lock it down
NormanB
Established Member
I find drilling a 10 mm hole just inside on the periphery of the holesaw cut line helps clearing and cuts cooler.
With some tools having decent ones does make the job more pleasurable plus for some achievable, nothing worse than a cheap saw that cuts out of square or does not deliver repeatable cuts. I have always had issues with chissels and struggled whenever I used them, but since buying some decent ones it has made things a lot easier and given me far better results.
Update,
I bought a few different sizes including the above kit from Mrs Cordy
Some from Starrett and a couple of Bi-metal from the Bay
All worked well on slowest speed -- 200 rpm
Made this puzzle for four year old grand-daughter
Largest diameter on the puzzle is five inches
When drilling I raised the cutter every 5 seconds or so and cleared the debris with a wire brush
I bought a few different sizes including the above kit from Mrs Cordy
Some from Starrett and a couple of Bi-metal from the Bay
All worked well on slowest speed -- 200 rpm
Made this puzzle for four year old grand-daughter
Largest diameter on the puzzle is five inches
When drilling I raised the cutter every 5 seconds or so and cleared the debris with a wire brush
