Can you advise, please?

[Cozzer]

You lot are very inventive, I know, so can you suggest a way that these can be made, please?!

"These" can be seen on the following youtube job -

starting at about 13'50...
"Fillets" to aid making numerous identical-width stringers, rather than having to measure time and time again.
The height of the slot doesn't really matter (just as long as it's above 0.6mm which seems to be the normal veneer thickness on this side of the water) but how laddo's managed to run accurate recesses as small as 1mm along is beyond my skill/equipment level.
Don't have to be made of wood, of course, but although I've searched, I can't find anything listed that can be purchased....

 

[Ttrees]

Steve Latta is one of the big names regarding that, and has a line of custom tools
which Lie-Nielsen makes/made

 

[Cozzer]

Uh-oh....
Lie Nielsen!
(Thinks of debit card, then wipes beads of sweat from brow!)

Thanks, Ttrees.

 

[Ttrees]

Steve's videos are worth a watch though, especially if you like herringbone or other patterns,
then it's the best you'll find.
Seen that guy you posted about before, possibly from that channel, if not Highland woodworker
or possibly Gwinnett woodworkers on YT.
Peter Sefton might hopefully be doing some more stuff on YT soon?, he's got some veneering videos.
Some footage from David Savage exists on the Rowden Atelier channel.
Tim Killenwood, on the KillenWOOD channel, no doubt.
Frank Strazza might be worth looking up.
I'm sure I'm missing someone else though that should yield some good info.

All the best
Tom

 

[loftyhermes]

If it was me, I would glue a piece of 3mm birch ply (because that's the thinnest I've got) the set distance back that I wanted underneath the thicker piece.

 

[Cozzer]

If it was me, I would glue a piece of 3mm birch ply (because that's the thinnest I've got) the set distance back that I wanted underneath the thicker piece.

Now that's a good idea!

 

[niall Y]

There is usually more than one way to solve a problem. A few years back I experimented with some holly and bog-oak chevron inlays - think Ernest Gimson, hay-rake, table.

The numbers involved made it necessary to speed up the process somehow. The following photos show the process. End grain pieces were glued together to make "sticks of rock" The internal corners were then run on a spindle moulder - a stainless steel template was used to help cut the outsides of each chevron, using a sharp Japanese saw.

 

[Cozzer]

There is usually more than one way to solve a problem. A few years back I experimented with some holly and bog-oak chevron inlays - think Ernest Gimson, hay-rake, table.

The numbers involved made it necessary to speed up the process somehow. The following photos show the process. End grain pieces were glued together to make "sticks of rock" The internal corners were then run on a spindle moulder - a stainless steel template was used to help cut the outsides of each chevron, using a sharp Japanese saw.

Crikey!
And how's your eyesight now?!

 

[niall Y]

Crikey!
And how's your eyesight now?!

As bad as ever. Didn't require good eyesight , as the accuracy was all down to the machine set-up and an accurate metal template.