Can anyone tell me how this table has been made?
- Thread starter HomeGrownHeroz
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Phil Pascoe
Established Member
“Ever tried? Ever failed? No matter. Try again. Fail again. Fail better.”
Samuel Beckett.
Samuel Beckett.
Jacob
What goes around comes around.
I meant that making a table by pinning mortices is just one technique, draw-boring is an additional one, there are other ways, more or less effective, non of them "the correct way".Sorry @Jacob , you've lost me there.
I wouldn't have though many table joints were draw-bored pinned as tables tend to be rectangular and easy to clamp one way or another. Must have a look next time I saw up a table!
Stevekane
Established Member
Please take no notice of the really neg comments, the trouble is that youve wandered into a forum where many of the people really try to lift their skills and produce super craftsmanship made pieces. However not everyone dislikes the style of your table and Ive made a not dissimilar garden table. Can I suggest that you search diy farmhouse table and you will find lots of free plans and ideas using a jointing method called Pocket hole joinery which might be what your looking for, and if your happy with your results, which Im sure you would be, you can learn and develop skills as you go along..In fact from dodgy memory,,,a person to look up is Anna White,,does lots of this lind of thing.
Steve.
Steve.
In fact, you have the terminology more correct than I.
It was draw boring that I intended to refer to, but, for the life of me,
could not remember the correct term. Laziness then took over and I
settled on "pinned", which I just knew wasn't quite right.
What I was trying to convey is that, purely to my personal opinion
and sensibilities, a mortice and tenon joint is rather naked and
unfinished if it has not been draw bored.
Also, trying to encourage the op, in that this technique is really ever
so simple and only requires the habit being formed to do so.
Yes, draw boring was used for centuries before clamps were invented. It might be a challenge to the OP who is a novice but certainly very satisfying to do.
It does, but if you look carefully you can see just a hint of the table leg to the left of the stool leg. Either that, or it's one of those impossible constructions you can find on the internet.
Les
@OP Guessing aprons are fixed with pocket holes and then maybe a brace put on either during assembly or after as it 'racked' fixed to the front and back apron, can't imagine just an extra piece of wood doing much unless it's a dire attempt at a split apron.
If you wanted a go, to make it easy on yourself you could get a couple of 75x75mm 6ft fence posts cut in half, and cut a scaffold board in half lengthwise for the aprons (would be about 110mm wide). Hold everything together to check how it looks, adjusting the apron inset. Note: you can reduce all the widths and sizes if too tall/wide ... pretty hard to put it back on
. Wouldn't put the slot too close to the edge so if you wanted the apron to be closer to the front I'd think about tenons.
When happy chisel/rout a slot on the inside faces of the posts to the same depth (110mm), slot the aprons in so the top is all level (alternatively if you don't think you'll be accurate enough make the slots a touch less deep and then plane it all level) and then make some corner braces. If you're happy with that, glue it all together. Make a top from said scaffolding boards dowelled/loose tenoned together and make some wooden buttons (L shaped bits of wood that fit into a slot cut into the apron and then screwed to the top to allow for movement and also easy removal) to fix top to table base. Finish with oil/whatever you prefer.
If you have the wood or don't mind the cost maybe make a little side table the same way as a trial and to get a feel for it. After the side table you can decide on how involved you want to be by making mortices and tenons. A quick you tube search shows this guy going through pretty much everything including the buttons, although for a functional rustic table I'd still use corner brackets:
Newton Makes
Hope it helps a bit and sorry about the crappy graphics, my mum says I'm very arty (or something like that) honest!
If you wanted a go, to make it easy on yourself you could get a couple of 75x75mm 6ft fence posts cut in half, and cut a scaffold board in half lengthwise for the aprons (would be about 110mm wide). Hold everything together to check how it looks, adjusting the apron inset. Note: you can reduce all the widths and sizes if too tall/wide ... pretty hard to put it back on
. Wouldn't put the slot too close to the edge so if you wanted the apron to be closer to the front I'd think about tenons.When happy chisel/rout a slot on the inside faces of the posts to the same depth (110mm), slot the aprons in so the top is all level (alternatively if you don't think you'll be accurate enough make the slots a touch less deep and then plane it all level) and then make some corner braces. If you're happy with that, glue it all together. Make a top from said scaffolding boards dowelled/loose tenoned together and make some wooden buttons (L shaped bits of wood that fit into a slot cut into the apron and then screwed to the top to allow for movement and also easy removal) to fix top to table base. Finish with oil/whatever you prefer.
If you have the wood or don't mind the cost maybe make a little side table the same way as a trial and to get a feel for it. After the side table you can decide on how involved you want to be by making mortices and tenons. A quick you tube search shows this guy going through pretty much everything including the buttons, although for a functional rustic table I'd still use corner brackets:
Newton Makes
Hope it helps a bit and sorry about the crappy graphics, my mum says I'm very arty (or something like that) honest!
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HOJ
Established Member
With or without beer goggles on @Adam W. it is still a pile of
@Crazy Dave I would have offered a greeting, but I didn't see an introduction, you never need to apologise for me, simple question asked, simple answer given!
@HomeGrownHeroz
I would strongly suggest you take this offer up.
TheTiddles
Established Member
The reason people are saying it’s rubbish… is because it’s rubbish.
If it wasn’t, lots of tables would look like this, Ikea would sell them and the general guidelines for how you make a good table would give you a design like that.
They don’t, because it’s rubbish.
Maybe you like that, hurrah, get some nails and a pallet and off you go.
An period piece of functional furniture does not look like that, it’s uncomfortable and impractical, two things that tables don’t benefit from being.
Dowels, glue and leg brackets will work perfectly well for a few decades. Really focus on a traditional construction and it will be sound for a hundred years and still look good. Well made farmhouse tables sell for top money because they got the details right, they still work and still look right.
If it wasn’t, lots of tables would look like this, Ikea would sell them and the general guidelines for how you make a good table would give you a design like that.
They don’t, because it’s rubbish.
Maybe you like that, hurrah, get some nails and a pallet and off you go.
An period piece of functional furniture does not look like that, it’s uncomfortable and impractical, two things that tables don’t benefit from being.
Dowels, glue and leg brackets will work perfectly well for a few decades. Really focus on a traditional construction and it will be sound for a hundred years and still look good. Well made farmhouse tables sell for top money because they got the details right, they still work and still look right.
sams93
Established Member
I first got into woodworking because I liked the look of those epoxy resin tables, and wanted to have a go at making one of them.
I couldn't understand why woodworking people didn't like them, but I proceeded anyway.
I'm pleased I did make some, because it is what got me into woodworking, however I realised relatively quickly that they actually required no woodworking skill or forethought (in that you just need to cut two bits of wood to size and pour a horrible gloopy plastic in between), nor were they very sensible things to make (mixing wood - which moves, and plastic which doesn't isn't a great idea usually).
I now think they are horrible things, and wouldn't make them now (apart from the rare occasion a family member specifically requests one....). I now appreciate more of the details in woodworking, joinery and workpiece design and construction. I think I have found it most interesting (and still do) getting to grips with the concept that wood is a material which moves with the seasons, and so good design incorporates a way to allow that movement to take place without changing the look and stability of the piece. I used to think that by putting more screws ( ) in I would be able to 'stabilise' pieces - how foolish I was!
Anyhow, I only bothered to post as there are a lot of strong opinions in this thread where you have asked for some advice about a first project, and I didn't want that to put you off the idea of having a go. I agree with most of the negative opinions from a carpentry point of view, and personally I don't like the pallet/scaffold furniture stuff at all - but if you do, then give it a go. Whether it works out well and you like it at the end or not, you will no doubt learn something during the process, and that might improve your attempts at making the next thing you make, or change your mind on designs and style.
I couldn't understand why woodworking people didn't like them, but I proceeded anyway.
I'm pleased I did make some, because it is what got me into woodworking, however I realised relatively quickly that they actually required no woodworking skill or forethought (in that you just need to cut two bits of wood to size and pour a horrible gloopy plastic in between), nor were they very sensible things to make (mixing wood - which moves, and plastic which doesn't isn't a great idea usually).
I now think they are horrible things, and wouldn't make them now (apart from the rare occasion a family member specifically requests one....). I now appreciate more of the details in woodworking, joinery and workpiece design and construction. I think I have found it most interesting (and still do) getting to grips with the concept that wood is a material which moves with the seasons, and so good design incorporates a way to allow that movement to take place without changing the look and stability of the piece. I used to think that by putting more screws (
) in I would be able to 'stabilise' pieces - how foolish I was!Anyhow, I only bothered to post as there are a lot of strong opinions in this thread where you have asked for some advice about a first project, and I didn't want that to put you off the idea of having a go. I agree with most of the negative opinions from a carpentry point of view, and personally I don't like the pallet/scaffold furniture stuff at all - but if you do, then give it a go. Whether it works out well and you like it at the end or not, you will no doubt learn something during the process, and that might improve your attempts at making the next thing you make, or change your mind on designs and style.
NickDReed
Established Member
And expensive, but don't tell the wife that part.be warned wood work is addictive AND catching
Jacob
What goes around comes around.
Yes just go for it!
They get a bit carried away on here but a table and a bench are basically two boards held at convenient heights. There are many ways of achieving this.
If you look carefully you will see an early example of a portable MFT (multi function table). It is also used as a door.
They get a bit carried away on here but a table and a bench are basically two boards held at convenient heights. There are many ways of achieving this.
If you look carefully you will see an early example of a portable MFT (multi function table). It is also used as a door.
Last edited:
Ttrees
Iroko loco!
I'm sure folks would agree I've said enough, but in effort to help,
I am trying to suggest where the appeal of something like this might be,
when looked at twice, that is.
Big slabs, of nice bright material... nuff said.
The flush legs with the top being the main feature, which emulates a thicker top,
well maybe without the lights on...
Here's the Roubo, which also doesn't appear to have movement taken into account,
or if it has, then seemingly hidden.
The sliding dovetails might be a feature to some, not to my eyes though,
either way, it's a thick slab.
Couldn't suggest something similar what wasn't a bench, but I reckon plenty of
folks could suggest something with a similar theme...
If that is actually the appeal of the table.
I am trying to suggest where the appeal of something like this might be,
when looked at twice, that is.
Big slabs, of nice bright material... nuff said.
The flush legs with the top being the main feature, which emulates a thicker top,
well maybe without the lights on...
Here's the Roubo, which also doesn't appear to have movement taken into account,
or if it has, then seemingly hidden.
The sliding dovetails might be a feature to some, not to my eyes though,
either way, it's a thick slab.
Couldn't suggest something similar what wasn't a bench, but I reckon plenty of
folks could suggest something with a similar theme...
If that is actually the appeal of the table.
Adam W.
A Major Clanger
HOJ
Established Member
I thought I had, twice, just not one like this!
ey_tony
Established Member
It's a table. If the OP likes the look of it so what?
He asked how it was made and not an opinion on how it looks. Some people actually like rustic style furniture...if he likes it and it functions as a table then the job's a good'n..
To my mind It's simply a crude version of many tables that I've made over the years and it employs a similar method of construction. Note I'm describing it and not judging.
If the OP can make basic M&T joints then he can construct it very simply. It's hardly rocket science but if his woodwork skills are such that he can't cut and fit the joints accurately then it can be achieved via wood blocks and screws or even angle brackets though I'd strongly recommend conventional wood joints for strength and stability.
I learned my woodwork skills through church organ building and my particular interested lies in the construction of furniture over the past 3-4 centuries but some people never have any skills or training when they first wish to start leaning about woodwork so I'd rather give them help and guidance than put them off through criticism. Just saying!
He asked how it was made and not an opinion on how it looks. Some people actually like rustic style furniture...if he likes it and it functions as a table then the job's a good'n..
To my mind It's simply a crude version of many tables that I've made over the years and it employs a similar method of construction. Note I'm describing it and not judging.
If the OP can make basic M&T joints then he can construct it very simply. It's hardly rocket science but if his woodwork skills are such that he can't cut and fit the joints accurately then it can be achieved via wood blocks and screws or even angle brackets though I'd strongly recommend conventional wood joints for strength and stability.
I learned my woodwork skills through church organ building and my particular interested lies in the construction of furniture over the past 3-4 centuries but some people never have any skills or training when they first wish to start leaning about woodwork so I'd rather give them help and guidance than put them off through criticism. Just saying!
