calling all scheppach hms 2600ci planer owners

[Escudo]

Kingy,

I reckon it is a about 53 cm wide if you remove the guard arm. I have allowed a little for the switch on the side, add on a bit for luck and I'm sure it will slip in easy.

Wisewords from martin regarding delivery.

Hope all goes well and good luck.

Esc.

 

[sidd]

Hi there,

I just bought a HMS 2600ci, and it is more or less put together. But I've still got a few bits that I have no idea where they go. Maybe I've put the whole thing together wrongly...

I have two beige panels the same length as the machine, which came in the stand box, I have 4 little black metal spacers, and I have something that looks like a steel handle with two large holes in it.

The stand seems reasonably secure, but I have no idea whether I put it together right. Basically, I secured the 4 nuts and bolts to the base, chucked a rubber washer on top, and attached the machine just with the 2 clips. So the bolts stick up vertically, and keep the machine roughly in position, while the washers absorb the vibration. I haven't turned it on yet, so I can't be sure that the whole thing won't fall apart.

Can anyone advise?

Thanks.

 

[Escudo]

Welcome to the forum Sid.

I am sure you will be very happy with your new planner.

I'm not sure I can be of much help as my machine was assembled by the firm that supplied it. Your description of the base and fixing sounds right.

I had terrible trouble lining up the four bolts with the holes in my machine and have since made my own base with a wheel kit.

The handle you describe could be for the arm that controls the sliding blade safety cover. The only other handle type things I can think of are the wheel for the thicknesser table and the lever for controlling the depth of cut.

Hope this is some help.

Cheers, Esc.

 

[toplink]

The two yellow panels act as strengtheners in the base. They fit inside the two yellow end panels using the 2 upper bolt holes, if you look in the back of the instruction book you will find a exploded diagram in the parts section.

I had the same problem, now just waiting for my army of friends to come round and lift the machine onto the base.

I have also bought a set of mobility casters from Rutlands to fit to the base - I will let you know if it's a success.

Simon

 

[toplink]

Sorry missed this bit.

The four black spacers fit in the Allen keyed studs that protrude from the base into the planer, ie stud>spacer> base> self locking nut.

Hope this helps

Simon

 

[sidd]

Thank you guys for your advice.

I will have another go when I have someone to help.

 

[davo57]

hi

just bought myself one of these planer/thicknessers and i agree about the weight! Had to get a friend to help me lift it and with two of us it wasnt too bad to get onto the base. The wife couldnt do it though!
But one thing i am annoyed about is that it needs a 16amp supply to work! On none of the websites information about this machine it says this and i am now stuck with what to do.
Some people on here say that theirs work on a 13amp supply but ive tried four times to get it going and it has blown the fuses each time before it has even started up (starting up uses the most voltage right?).
Im now looking at another £150 to get the workshop rewired!
Is there any way round this problem that anyone knows? (other than sticking a nail in the fuse place!!) I have had it over a week now and just want to use the damn thing!!
Cheers

Dave

 

[Escudo]

Dave

My machine works on 13 amp, although occasionally it blows a fuse. My electrician told me to make sure the cable was always full unwound (not coiled up) don't really know why but it has not blown a fuse since.

Must be some electrical magic. Hope this is of some help.

Cheers, Tony

 

[Digit]

Must be some electrical magic.

Nope! What happens is this, we are using alternating current, this means that the voltage rises and fall at a rate 50 times a second. 240 volts is an average of those rises and falls. The rapidly rising and falling current produces a similarly rising and falling magnetic field, place a coil of within that magnetic field and a voltage will be generated within that coil.
Leaving an extension lead coiled up places the coiled up lead within that magnetic field, producing another voltage beside your 240 one.
I've seen extension leads catch fire under these conditions, and as the heat rises, so generally does the current, and so does the magnetic field, and so does the current---.
Replacing a 13 amp fuse with a bar is frowned on, but if there are any other retired sparks out there they will point out, as I do, that the 13 amp plug was preceded by a 15 amp plug that had no fuse, BUT they were radially wired, not used on a ring main.
By all means replace the fuse, but then run a dedicated power line to your consumer unit and connect to a 20 amp MCB.
Connecting to a ring main normally means that the MCB is rated at 30 to 32 amp, this is not good!

 

[davo57]

thanks for that guys. Its annoying (well for me!!) that a lot of people on here are getting their machines to work on the 13amp!! I only have the machine wired up using a three metre wire so its not like the cable is wound up at all. Hmm...would it make any difference if it was longer i wonder??
Thanks for the help, but it looks like im going to have to fork out for a new circuit.

dave

 

[Digit]

Do you have a consumer unit in you workshop Dave?

 

[Streepips]

The steel "handle" you describe with the two holes is probably the knife setting jig, has it got two lines about 3mm apart on on straight edge?
These are the knife rotation travel distance guides.

As far as the two panels go, as someone suggested these are likely the base cabinet panels. Someone else thought perhaps these were standard, because they came with his machine but actually each dealer can make up whichever pack they fancy Mine came with no cabinet but a set of table extension arms and rollers and I know which I would prefer for functionality.
I got a 260Ci a while ago and while the finish and core quality is still good,it really does not have the throughput of the earlier sintered alloy table version.
I still use the earlier version 260 just about every day with consistent results and never a breakdown or issue after about 18 years, good machine, and the Ci version is now with a friend permanently.
If anyone wants to know why I am not impressed with the Ci version please ask and I will explain, pointing out the differences in the machines or rather the ancillary equipment
If I have any complaint about the Scheppach machines especially the 260 planers, it has to be the use of cheap plastics for control gear etc which really spoil the machine I have modded mine with parts cannibalised from of all things a Singer treadle sewing machine ( I bet thats got you wondering ) and a part from a Thames truck low gear shift, and a few feet of Dexian and a few square feet of 8mm perspex.... easy mods and much more efficient and robust for the effort.
On a plus note the Ci planer fence is longer than the earlier 260 versions but then again the earlier shorter version has never been an issue for me anyway.
I have the P/T on a dedicated 16 amp circuit with commando socket and extractor is a Scheppach HA26
The core machine is the same across the two, the Ci version and the earlier versions, but as I say I find the cast iron model awkward and it certainly has its drawbacks, but nevertheless a fine machine for a good finish and powerful for its size

PS the wheelbase for the 260 works on a double action lift and lock, lift again and release mechanism, forget it if you have a dodgy back

 

[davo57]

hi digit

the workshop is a small unit we are renting (17ft x 17ft) and has a consumer unit with seperate small mcb inside (think it has space for three more). We only have two strip lights going into it and six plug sockets at the moment. Inside the consumer unit it says its rating is 63a. Does that make any difference as i thought most circuits were 32a?
And sorry if im asking stupid questions but electrics arent my thing!!

thanks for the help

Dave

 

[Digit]

Hi Dave! If you fit a 20 amp MCB into one of the unused 'ways' then run a length of 2.5 mm twin core and earth, ( the familiar grey flat cable) to a switched spur outlet you will be able to run the saw without trouble.
A switched spur outlet is the same size as a 13 amp socket, it has a hole in the front to run the saw cable through and, importantly, no fuse!
If you ask nicely most suppliers will supply the length of cable required without you needing to by a complete real.
I'm doing exactly the same circuit myself this morning as I'm sick of changing fuses.

 

[davo57]

thats brilliant! thanks you so much. I will put my hand to it and give it a go. But watch this space as im sure i will have more questions about how to do it! And is having no fuse dangerous at all?
Dave

 

[davo57]

....and would it be best to have a 16amp mcb in the CU rather than a 20 amp one seeing as the machine runs off 16 amps?

 

[Streepips]

Davo,
any machine that size and motor type has a greater start up load than its running load,, always allow for this fact and rate it to compensate, 20 amp would be fine, it will only draw what it needs.

 

[Digit]

As regards the fuse Dave the MCB covers that function. It's just coming upto 5 0'clock here and I've just finished installing my circuit to this same standard.
If you were to purchase a heavy duty plug and socket it would not have a fuse in it. This sort of wiring is standard in factories etc.
I'll be keeping an eye on this part of the forum so if you get any problems post them and I'll do what I can to help.